2-stroke or 4-stroke for cross-country travel?

Happy Valley,

Well, I did write dribble it into the carburetor. Don't pour it like you'd pour yourself a glass of juice.
That'll definately kill the engine, as well as running the risk of damaging internal parts.
How much to use?
I don't think there is a set amount. Just a small amount into a small container and dribble it in.
Without being able to see how much carbon is cleaned out, I would suggest using up all of the liquid in the container, then test driving it and see if you notice a difference.
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Bamabikeguy,

You're welcome and good luck with your project.





Dean
 
I've always had great luck with just a capfull (per gallon) of marvel in the tank for my four-strokes...
 
If I were to ride cross-country on a MB, I'd choose 4-stroke...TWO of them.

Probably two Honda X50's. Rear chain drive box w/18.75:1 gears and front friction drive w/1.5" roller.

Rear chain drive for wet roads.

No mixing oil, and if one engine dies the other pulls you to the next town 50 miles away.:unsure:
 
so now i suppose i should ask the question that hasnt been asked yet....

for cross country, which would ultimately be better, a bike mount 50cc or smaller, or a 4 stroke pusher? i would think the 4 stroke pusher would be better, as the pusher could double as a gear trailer.
 
TheOtherStyle,

Pusher? bike mount?

Forgive me for not being up on the "lingo" but could you please define those terms?
I don't quite understand what you're talking about, besides engine placment.



Elvis
 
bike mount, like the 80cc kit from bikeberry that i'm looking at that mounts in the V of the bike frame.

pusher, like a 6.5hp on a trailer of sorts pushing the bike around.
 
There is another very important question that nobody has addressed.How to cope with hilly terrain with a trailer lugging 100 lbs or so.The TYPE of engine is really a secondary issue,but the manufacturer is very important.The only ones worth considering are the Japanese ones.The Honda 50 cc 4 stroke is a proven engine with good low-end torque and forced cooling,parts are easy to come by also.I think it is essential to have variable gearing in order to translate the limited available power into widely varying torque (push)needed to keep you going under different conditions.(flat land cruising, hill climbing,up mountains).There are a number of drive alternatives,the NuVinci comes to mind,durable with a wide range (3.5:1).Drawbacks: heavy and expensive with a lot of weight at the rear. SBP jack shaft to crank system.Advantage: frame mount,better handling,multi gear capability.Drawbacks, limited engine choice ?,3/32" rear chain stressed a lot,pedaling could be problem (low speed).Unproven design so durability a ??
I think the dual engine scheme (friction combi chaindrive has considerable merit.Redundancy&flexibility and more vital torque thus better hill climbing situation,less engine strain which translates into durability.Can change rollers to suit terrain (maybe).Drawbacks cost,gas milage (may not be all that bad).Variable gearing is expensive too.If I were to go on an extended trip I would give this option serious consideration.You need all the power you can get and,speaking from experience, it is very nice not to get terminally stranded in some godforsaken place.
 
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I'd use a frame mounted Chris Hill engine with a SBP shifter kit, nuvinci or an 8 speed internal hub, high compression head, and tuned pipe with added quiet muffler. I'd carry a spare CDI and magneto just to be safe. In addition to the 1/2 gallon fuel tank, I'd carry another 1/2-1 gallon rear rack mounted tank that are made for the HT.

I'd use a dynamo/drum break front hub and if possible, a rear disk brake. Bike would be a comfort bike with a steel frame, sorry no aluminum for me. Engine would run Maxima 927 oil at 5 oz to gallon. Castor will provide the necessary overheat protection that no other oil can provide...if overheating ever occurs.


If SBP comes out with their 4 stroke shifter engine/kit...then this would replace my above choice but a slim margin. In many ways, the simplicity and low maintenance of a 2 stroke is highly desireable on a long trip. No need to worry about oil changes or valve train.
 
I'm not in favor of a small engine that does not have forced air cooling but have experience with riding those sort of small 2 strokes (125cc) in mountains at high temp and low speeds.Watch out!!.I had extra aluminum homebrew "fins" clamped on the head which helped out quite a bit in preventing overheating.That does not mean there are no reliable 2 strokes.The Japanese ones are OK,most Chinese are questionable (bearings,ignition,cooling),I would not touch one unless it had been upgraded extensively.Some multispeed hubs have an input torque limit in the lower gears. also.You definitely don't want to bust one of those.
 
I've had no problem with the HT engines in hot summer mountain riding at low speeds. I'm a firm believer in using a hint of castor in the oil though. Once time, I was riding hard up a steep hill for many miles and my exhaust turned cherry red and my head an ashen grey color, the engine suffered no damage as I stopped for a few minutes to allow the engine to cool down at idle for a few minutes before I resumed to finish my mountain climb. That engine still ran strong 2 years later when I traded it and the bike partially on a 24 year old jeep. I don't think forced air cooling is necessary for the HT engine. I've had no problem running it in temps as high as 104 deg on long uncomfortable rides in the New Mexico/Arizona desert sun-4 corners area.

I think the CH80 engine with upgraded seals and bearings would do well as a cross country ride where the upmost reliability is needed. Vibes in a HT are much better now than they were years ago and a SBP shift with high comprssion head and tuned pipe would give the engine the torque and power to run at lower rpms for a given speed.
 
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