Brakes 2/stroke-week brakes+ kill switch

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by geebt48cc, Aug 2, 2011.

  1. geebt48cc

    geebt48cc Member

    Guys, 66cc is doing very well running about 25-28MPH/Tops mid 30's. Uno, the main problem are the weak V brakes. Other day I was crusing along with traffic, and some people (few cars up) crossed the cross walk, so had to stop very quick. NO, I had to divert to the on coming traffic..............I was lucky, there was nothing coming.(any better ideas that wont' cost the price of another bike?)

    One thing that I've found out to do is when I'm coming into a area where I need to stop, I hit the kill-switch and hold till the bike slows to a slower pace. So, wonder if that will cause other problems to creep up?

    Uno, bottom line is I'm too heavy at 255,6' 6" + a 80lbs Schwinn Gateway. I keep on riding it about 30 miles a week.:whistling:
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2011

  2. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    as long as the killswitch is wired up to either cut the blue or earth it out, no real problems. until a truck pulls out in front of you. then you may have a slight issue.

    v-brakes will outperform disc brakes when set up properly. when set up properly! (for all the pundits out there...) and i like the fact the pads will remain available readily for the foreseeable future...

    the trick is setting them properly :)

    get new pads.

    get new cable.

    some pads are directional. follow the arrow!

    remove old cable and pads.

    install new pads but dont put the nuts on yet!

    now, this is fiddly...get a rubber band and hold the two arms together, with the pads contacting the rim. put the nuts on (and note theres TWO washers on each side, a cup and a ball, so the pads can sit at various angles.)

    line the pads up nicely with the rim, hold them, and tighten the nuts. think of the arc they will travel as they wear out... predict it so they DONT chew into the sides of your tyre...

    attach new cable. wind adjuster on the bars all the way out. keep the rubber band across the arms! pull excess cable as tight as possible, then tighten clamp. make sure the cable follows nice curves so it pulls easily and freely.

    wind the adjuster on the handlebars back in.

    now theres a little screw on the side of each brake arm, at the pivot. if you turn it IN, that lever will move AWAY from the rim. fiddle with both sides until each arm moves an equal amount.

    now be careful not to hit them too hard the first few times else youll get a face full of gravel :D