Hi Sgt. B,
Seems everyday someone contacts me concerning belt adjustment on a Whizzer. It is possible to make the belts work 100%. Many offer advice on belt adjustment, however I totally disagree with most.
In order to make the belts work correctly on a new edition Whizzer, a trip into the past is helpful. The AMERICAN vintage Whizzer engineers had a good understanding about belts & clutches, whereas the Taiwan builder didn't have a clue. The AX series belt was designed to work with small pulleys, and the notches allowed the belt to bend without "bunching" up the center "V" section of the belt, and causing the belt to become hot and "sticky". Another important feature was an AX belt takes a more "relaxed" position than the "cheap" FHP belt supplied on the new edition Whizzers. In other words the 4L series belt trys to maintain a circle, whereas the AX series returns to a relaxed oval pattern.
Next we need to visit belt length, pulley size, and the length of the Taiwan clutch arm. They managed to make the arm "in-between" sizes. Too long for an AX 26 belt and too short for an AX 27 [29"]. Of course the length is also wrong with the stock FHP 4L290 [29"] belt. When using the factory supplied belt the bottom of the belt return path hits the front bottom belt guard post.
I know this sounds like a really serious problem, but the fix is EZ. Considering the AX 26 is too short and the AX 27 is too long, wouldn't it be great if we could buy an AX 26.5. Of course there isn't any AX belt is 1/2 sizes, BUT there are automotive "wedge" belt in 1/2 sizes. Automotive wedge belts are also notched and designed to work with small pulleys, and often run alternators, water pumps, etc. The automotive wedge belt is available in 15/32" widths, whereas AX belts are 1/2" [16/32"] wide. The slightly thinner belt [1/32" less] simply fits deeper in the pulleys, and if anything improves the "take-off" speed.
Try a #15285 [15/32 X 28.5"] belt, and can be ordered from most auto parts stores [NAPA, Pet Boys, Advance, etc.].
You will also notice a special plate installed inside your belt cover, the plate is a guide to make the 4L belt conform to an oval pattern and if removed the clutch system just stops working. If the belt is adjusted without the guide and then the guide is installed then adjust become way off. Often when converted to the wedge or AX series belts the plate isn't needed, however in some cases it is helpful.
Now! Where I totally disagree with many is the system used to adjust the belts. I remove the rear belt from the rear sheave, and work on the front belt and clutch adjustment. I start by making the front belt "TIGHT"; I then adjust the cable so that the clutch handle causes the belt to slacken when pulled and tight when released. After I make the front belt work correctly [after all it is the belt responsible for the clutching action], I then install the rear belt. If the rear belt is too loose, I move the wheel towards the rear [sometimes the bike chain may need a half-link] until I see the clutch pulley starting to move downward, tighten wheel. If the belt is too tight, I move the rear wheel forward, if the bike chain is too loose You can loosen the top rear motor mount bolt and push the top of the motor slightly forward and then tighten the bolt.
When the clutch handle is pulled in, the flywheel pulley should spin inside the front belt, and the rear belt should be tight enough to stop the clutch pulley from spinning in the process. If the clutch pulley spins when stopped the rear belt isn't tight enough.
Hope this helps.
Have fun,
