24" Green NE5

Well I have been working on the bike every ride. I now have the ignition moved ahead and the cam one tooth ahead, the engine runs like a clock and pulls like a Donkey. Now what to do with the drive and the brake. I am still working on a fix and don't have the solution yet everything I have tried so far has only made a little difference. It might be that I will have to change the drive completely, IE ditch the belt thing. Cog belts! We will see. Have fun, Dave

PS: The brake I saw on the o8 model they have a larger, wider brake similar to the one on this bike.
 
Hi Egor,

Con graduations on the new ride. The later band brakes seemed to be one of the weak links I had a few of them that were squealers and did not stop well. Whizzer has since then replaced them with an expanding shoe brake like the front and they are quiet and stop significantly better. Also they replaced the rear brake cable with on that does not stretch as much. These upgrades will bolt straight onto your bike with little effort.


Ryan
Newport Beach Whizzer
 
I am going to try and lengthen the arms on the brake mechanism and see if I can increase the leverage. I am going to put a bead of silicone rubber on the inside of the rear drum and see if that will stop the squealing, you know like a crack in the bell as it were. The belts have been behaving lately so I will leave it alone for now. I made a new seat post that puts the seat back about 4", I like that it made a world of difference. Now I have to figure out why the front forks are not gliding correctly, they stick. Honda had a few of there bikes that this happened years ago but we just replaced them on warranty these things have none. Oh well have fun, Dave
 
Hi

before the new brake I tried everything to get those to quit squealing I even put dynamat (their demo has a quarter size piece of this stuff on a bell and all the bell does when you ring it is thud) inside of the drum with no help. The other problem is if you extend the arm it is just going to get the brake very hot and spit the lining out the side of the drum. We experimented with lower strech cables and after 3 hard stops the brake would melt. We also tried groving the drum in different directions with no luck either. The best solution is the new expanding drum brake. They are quiet and stop significantly better it will feel like a new bike.

Ryan
Newport Whizzer
 
Wow Thanks that is about the best ID of trying to solve a problem I have seen. OK I don't have to go down that road. If I can ask here, what is the cost of that brake? Looks like it could be used on the Happy Time bikes also. Thanks again.
Hi

before the new brake I tried everything to get those to quit squealing I even put dynamat (their demo has a quarter size piece of this stuff on a bell and all the bell does when you ring it is thud) inside of the drum with no help. The other problem is if you extend the arm it is just going to get the brake very hot and spit the lining out the side of the drum. We experimented with lower strech cables and after 3 hard stops the brake would melt. We also tried groving the drum in different directions with no luck either. The best solution is the new expanding drum brake. They are quiet and stop significantly better it will feel like a new bike.

Ryan
Newport Whizzer
 
Took the Whizzer out today and rode around the Queen Mary. The sound is the thing that I like the most and the little clicking sounds that it makes it is like a song. I am getting used to this thing, I have most of the mods done now, I just need to get the mushroom lifters done. I still have the tack to install, it is a mess of wires to do. The belts have been doing OK so I will leave that alone for now. Have fun, Dave
 
I took the head off today to see how big the combustion chamber is. Look at the size of that area, I wonder what the comp ratio is 5.5. I will have to take it over and see about carving it down. The valve timing is dead center with the cam moved ahead, so with the marks aligned it is one tooth slow, I thought slow one tooth was better! I would think the valves could be larger too I was surprised to see them so small. And a composite head gasket that paper thing will blow out with any compression, oh well. Have fun, Dave

PS: Notice all the oil the intake is pulling up the guide.
 

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Hi Egor,
The head gasket is steel and can't be used again without problems. You need to aquire a copper head gasket, but the copper gasket is twice as thick. You can remove .060" to .070" from the head without any problems, subtract .010" for the thicker gasket. In other words if you remove .070" and use the copper gasket the new difference is .060" from original. You might also want to smooth out the combustion chamber because as you can see it looks like someone didn't understand how it works. Remove any sharp angles around the valve pocket, and take a little from the area around the intake valve pocket to make it as smooth as possible. Be sure the sparkplug doesn't hit the exhaust valve after the head is milled. You can use extra plug washers or copper washers to space the plug away from the valve. The camshaft works best if advanced one tooth [turn camshaft one tooth counter clockwise].

Have fun,
Quenton
 
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I am surprised to see that there is no check valve in the breather like a B&S. It has a filter at the end of the hose and I think it is adding to the back pressure in the crankcase, and driving the oil up the valve guide. I have never seen an engine with 300 mi. with that much oil fouling. The head gasket on this one is some type of composite material, its crispy. we used to slow the cam down on our Hot Rod B&S, it holds the intake open longer, closes the exhaust a little late, but the engine overall runs better and will spin higher. In the 70's the auto makers moved the cam ahead to meet smog laws, but gave away the performance of the engine in doing so. On some of them we just pulled the cover off and put the cam in the proper place and they ran like the year before. Have fun, Dave
 
Hi Egor,
I designed a special oil breather system several years ago, and built one special for my 2008 Ambassador, because it could pump almost 5 oz. of oil in only 15 miles. My breather design is very easy to build, and many have made them and stopped the oil flow completely. It isn't the little filter at the end of the breather hose that causes the problem, but several other design errors in the system. First off the NE motors have a large hole [.475"] at the base of the cylinder allowing the rod dasher [oil slinger] to throw the oil straight into the lifter chamber. The chamber starts filling up with oil at higher RPMs then the pressure pushes the oil into the breather hose, when the hose fills up with oil it can't vent the crankcase, and just starts pushing the oil out like you own an oil well. The solution is very simple, just vent the hose into a larger chamber [pressure drops] filled with metal mesh type material [like a pot scrubber without soap], and install a PCV valve [installed to have the valve closed when not running]. Use a 1" O.D. pipe X 4" long. Install hose at bottom, PVC at the top, problem solved.

If you want pictures of the breather system, just email me at quincy163@yahoo.com and request them.

Have fun,
Quenton
 
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