4-Cycle Engine Break-In or Engine Damage?

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by 5-7HEAVEN, Jul 17, 2007.

  1. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Howziit guys,

    i just installed my 35cc ROBIN engine friction drive kit on saturday. after filling oil and gas, the engine started quickly, idling at factory-set 3000rpm. after a few minutes, i drove slowly to the volleyball/basketball courts next door and slowly drove the courts for 20 minutes. since it was drizzling, i motored/pedalled home and let it set for 3 hours. after that, i started up and drove my 7-mile route to work. just one medium hill near home, to which i used engine and 5th gear with no problem climbing uphill.
    on sunday, i drove the bike with a bent rear wheel with the brakes rubbing for half a mile. when i realized the rear brakes and rim were loading up the engine, i pulled over. since my wife was following me, i packed up the bike in her car and drove home. that night, i removed the engine kit and took the bike to the repair shop. so $36 dollars later, with new rim,axle and hub, i sit here reinstalling my engine kit and wonder:
    i know that for an automobile engine needs to run above 2000rpm for 20-30 minutes for proper break-in. then oil is changed, valves adjusted,etc.
    do these 35cc 4-cycle engines need a similar break-in procedure, or do we just start up, and drive away?
    thanks for any help.

  2. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

  3. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    sorry, didn't realizing i was loud. i like small print, and i'll keep the caps down.

  4. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest


    nothing personal...stay tuned for someone with experience to come along and help :)
  5. DougC

    DougC Guest

    I'm not certain,,,, but I don't remember any particular instructions on breaking in with the R/S 35cc engine I got.

    The owners manual only says to do the first oil change at 20 hours, and then every 50 hours after.
  6. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    8) yeah Doug, i've been reading the manual too. the engine seems to be running okay, i guess. the idle seems rather high; i might try to lower it. maybe then it won't vibrate as much. :shock:
  7. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    I don't think you have done anything bad, it is a good idea to vary the speeds, up and down, in 10-20-30 second variations, on all the engines, (except the smallest 25cc, which perform better when "full blasted on straightaways".)

    No jackrabbit starts, avoid ethanol, and varied speeds for maybe 5 tankfuls of gas and you should be well on the way to seating the cylinder.
  8. Hive

    Hive Guest

    Breaking in Engine

    There is really no way for us to tell for sure, but it sounds as though the engine is fine. These are nearly bullet proof machines and though some may have problems, you would know it if it does.

    I do not have experience with the friction drives, but if your engine starts easily, sounds good and displays power, and is not belching smoke, the problem is elsewhere. They usually run well even if you flaunt the break-in rules and take it to the max immediately and change oil only when you get low. These are basically trimmer and pump motors, built to run a long time and will take up to 2000 hours to break in - read threads here.

    I daresay that you will find few posts here of people who have a Robin, Tanaka, Honda or similar engine that went bust right away or did so without some long term abuse, but I am far from being an expert, so will have to wait on that one.
  9. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    8) yeah, i think the engine's gonna be fine. i AM taking bama's advice and varying engine speed and not loading up on the engine.
    today i had the front tire repaired,transported the bike to work and motored/pedalled 5 miles home. at mile one, the tank's grommet popped off and gas poured onto my butt, drive housing, rear hub and tire. luckily no fire. reinstalled grommet and made a mental note NEVER again to fill the 96oz tank above this grommet level. :shock:
    at mile 2, i noticed excess rubber dust all over the bike's back end. THENN i realized that the friction roller was grinding away on my new tire, since i hadn't set the drive deeply enough.
    at mile 4, i noticed the old plasticcrankset guide broke a tab, possibly from manhandling the bike onto the car seat.
    at least i made it home this time, and the engine effortlessly blew up that one medium-sized hill near home.
    methinks the ROBIN engine is getting stronger. :cool:
  10. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    IMHO you are carrying way too much gas along for your ride, I thought your mileage requirements were 20 miles max per day.

    The 22 oz tank on GEBE get's me a little over 43 miles on the 25's, mayyyyybe 30 miles on the 33 (and THAT is going to be solved when I move Tim's GAS TANK discussion over from the other forum).

    I wouldn't carry a full tank, especially with the optional car loading.

    If you are getting 125-150 mpg, a quarter tank would last 2-3 days.

    Have you got a picture of that 96 oz. tank?
  11. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    8) bama, you're right, i AM carrying too much gas. i filled up for the first and only time 12 days ago, probably burned and spilled less than 16oz. so far. being a newbie, i guess i just wanted to make sure i didn't run outa gas.(go figure the logic, the gas station is 200 steps from my front door. i could HANDCARRY or push, or pedal my bike there if i ran outa gas. :shock: )
    lemme see:160mpg/gallon. 1 gallon=128oz. my tank=96oz or 3/4 gallon.if 3/4 of 160 mpg=120 miles per tank, that'd be 12 days driving to/from work. therefore, 3 days' worth of gas=1/4 tank=24oz.=3/16 gallon. at $3.20/gallon, it amounts to 60cents, or $1/week.
    now if i could persuade my wife to ride to work on a motorized tandem bike and save $5-something/week.......nah. :grin:
    bama, i'm computer-camera illiterate. when i learn how, i'll post pictures. the 96oz tank can be seen on STATON'S website.

  12. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    My tandem build fell through, the ONLY red 7 speed Sun was on the west coast, woulda taken J&B $150 to freight it, cuz it exceeded UPS size limits.

    Instead he got a regular red 7 speed, sitting in the shop waiting for UPS to deliver some engines tonight....

    Anyway, you COULD get a tandem, big Wald basket, fat saddles & ride it solo for the hour waiting for her, then whoola.

    Surely you could kill an hour on a bike in Paradise to save those petro dollars....

    Heck, you could operate a taxi service during that hour, charge a co-worker a dollar for a ride home, one ride and you are talking PURE PROFIT. :shock:
  13. beast775

    beast775 Guest

    friction drives

    well lots of experience here,its all about the depth of the drive wheel on your rear tire.i always used maxxis worm hook tires there sticky as all get out and reasonable 28.00?make sure your roller wheel is trued on the rear wheel.stand behind bike and look at the drive wheel,is it straight?even a little sideways im talkin very little will effect performance.make sure your cage which holds the drive wheel is tight and straight.sometimes gunning your throttle will stop the clutch from working properly,i always used 3/4 throttle.just adjust your drive depth a couple of times and test ride for best results.if its to deep your bike will feel like brakes are on too loose and no acceleration.good luck with your scrub drive..ow ya always use above 35lbs in rear tire the less surface for the drive wheel makes better power,easier on motor and clutch to.you dont want the drive roller digging through rubber to push it.
  14. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    :cool:Here's the latest:
    there is no damage. in fact, the engine seems to be getting stronger. i also lowered the idle, which lessened noise and vibration during coasting and at stops.
    i went for a 25-mile drive today, and bought 50 cents' worth of gas on the way home. it rained in certain locations, but the friction roller only slipped for a second or two.
    i spoke w/David Staton yesterday. he said the chain drive kit he's shipping me should be 100 times better than the friction drive. that's hard to believe, because the friction drive works very well for me.;)