4 stroke engine stalling out

[double trouble]

why pick on him?

We are trying to help him. Its not like this is a 24 valve dohc engine. There are just so few things that could be wrong.

 

[bideronit13]

You know what. The origonal poster purchased a motor and installed it himself.
The other guy said that he didnt mount the carb.
Dont make any sence and its not discouraging either.

 

[bideronit13]

The other guy said he didnt mount the carb rite. is what I meant to say.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

WHOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

NEVER, never, never, use synt oil in a new motor!

Synt oil will stop the motor from breaking in correctly.


Get that oil out of the motor right away, as it will produce an awful running motor. Chances are it will always produce excessive crankcase pressure and blow oil into the air breather system. You must use regular oil so the parts can "mate" together during the break-in process.

I wouldn't consider using synt oil until at least 500 miles logged on motor.

I don't know about your yard, but my motorbikes don't travel very well in my yard and I would guess riding on the road at higher speeds might in fact help stabilize your carburetor fuel flow. If the fuel is pulled into your carburetor at higher speeds it very may well clean out any restricted passages in the system. Running at sub par speeds on a new motor will for sure produce poor results. It is also bad to lug a new motor and riding in the average yard will not be helpful to the break-in process.

Double trouble........I totally agree! motor is basic and not much to go wrong! Just a matter of applying "KISS" [keep it simple stupid]. Most often we overdo our trouble shooting and look for complicated problems, when it fact it is almost always something simple.

It must also be said that the most common issue with these motors is the carburetor. Not a bad carburetor but one stopped up with bad gas. It wouldn't surprize me any if both carburetors were in fact plugged up. Each and every motor is started and often when removing new motor from the box, a smell of gasoline is present, meaning it could be evaporated fuel and internal residue.

Have fun,

 

[Mr Hydroseed]

Oooops.

Ok I will drain the oil and put in regular oil. I would never bog down an engine like that. That's why i bought the sick bikes shift kit and then bought the smaller drive sprocket for even lower gearing. Why? you ask. Because gears 5-8 where too high. When I circled my side yard 185' x 100' I was in 1st or 2nd gear just cruising. AND NO I didn't over rev the engine because the gearing was so low. JFYI: I'm a pretty intelligent person, that's just having trouble with this stupid problem. I just need a different perspective to resolve this.

 

[double trouble]

another possible

are u using the same gas tank, lines,filter and petcock ? Maybe your fuel flow has become restricted because of a bad line, dirt, or an air leak in the fuel filter like a cracked top.
I have seen this many times on 2 stroke outboards. primer bulbs, spongy lines ,and bad check valves were the number 1 service items on outboards where i used to buy my parts.
Thank you for the acknowledgment . I do have many years in diagnosis and fixed many engines with simple repairs.
We always say fuel and spark. it takes both. Even my wife understood it as I explained it tonight.
I have a sachs moped i might buy. Not running ,but it will soon. She asked how I would tell if the engine needed expensive repairs.
Three things I check.
Motor turns - good
Spark- good
Gas- no go. ..... Minor repairs.
Same with your bike . All the simple things that are keeping from running right will drive u nuts till you find it and hit yourself in the head.
run a remote tank if you can or at least 1 straight line set with no fittings.

 

[bideronit13]

Before I purchased my Honda gxh50 I reserched oil types and wheter on not the gxh50 requires Honda racing oil as does say a small or large Honda dirt bike. What I found out is the oil type like synthetic oil or regular oil does not matter and just use regular oil like valvolene and not the Honda racing oil like the motorcycles require.
Previously I was a Fuller 13 speed transmission mechanic. The motor mechanics and me would exchange ideas on such topics as this so I'll add some more. When synthetic oil first came out if you were running synthetic oil in a motor and changed to regular oil the motor, the regular oil would blow out because you would have to keep running the synthitic.
Do to these reasons I decided a long time ago to never run synthetic period. Im sure the oil manufacturers have altered and changed but I wouldnt take the risk.
The GXH50 clone wasnt in my interests but for me same rules apply.
I would also like to add that there is no break in rules for these small motors and this comes from honda themselves.
I assure you origonal post that I and everyone else have been scared from something so simple of a fix. Its just experience not that your dumb and nobody said that. Thats what this web site is for to learn. Ive made bigger mistakes then that easily.

 

[double trouble]

Before I purchased my Honda gxh50 I reserched oil types and wheter on not the gxh50 requires Honda racing oil as does say a small or large Honda dirt bike. What I found out is the oil type like synthetic oil or regular oil does not matter and just use regular oil like valvolene and not the Honda racing oil like the motorcycles require.
Previously I was a Fuller 13 speed transmission mechanic. The motor mechanics and me would exchange ideas on such topics as this so I'll add some more. When synthetic oil first came out if you were running synthetic oil in a motor and changed to regular oil the motor, the regular oil would blow out because you would have to keep running the synthitic.
Do to these reasons I decided a long time ago to never run synthetic period. Im sure the oil manufacturers have altered and changed but I wouldnt take the risk.
The GXH50 clone wasnt in my interests but for me same rules apply.
I would also like to add that there is no break in rules for these small motors and this comes from honda themselves.
I assure you origonal post that I and everyone else have been scared from something so simple of a fix. Its just experience not that your dumb and nobody said that. Thats what this web site is for to learn. Ive made bigger mistakes then that easily.

Changing from synthetic or regular oils back and forth does no harm . oil is oil no matter what base it is made from. in fact, most group 3 synthetics are really just hydrocracked reprocessed dino oils. I have done this many times with no adverse results. The problems you were experiencing was with older motors where the synthetics would clean behind an old seal that was swelled or caked with dirt and ready to fail anyway. The oil itself did no damage , in fact it was doing what synthetic oil was designed to do. Clean and lubricate better. I do not think that oil plays any part in how this motor is behaving.Not unless someone filed it way over capacity and it was foaming.

 

[bideronit13]

Just to clarify what I posted about the information about the break in proceedures on the GXH50 I'll post a link below.

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=24317

 

[bideronit13]

As far as changing oils to and from synthetic go, even today a debate with mixed reviews exists.
I still stand by what I learned on this about 25 years ago.