$5 Home Depot headlight revisited

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Sgt. Howard, Nov 9, 2012.

  1. littletinman

    littletinman Member

    I gotta apologize Sarge. I never saw posts 20-30 and this whole time thought you forgot to post instructions. I hope I didn't frustrate you with my stupidity. For some reason I didn't get a notification of any updates to this thread until after I had posted the pic of the light on my bike. Again, totally my fault. Heading to get the materials for the tail light right now.
     

  2. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Never an issue- you have two electrical systems, one AC and one DC. The AC is grounded to the engine... even if you rubber mount the engine, the chain connects it to the frame of the bicycle electrically as well as physically, so forget about isolating the AC of the magneto. Your negative for headlight, tail light and brakelight all congregate on the negative DC hookup of the hotbox... or the 6 volt battery system should you choose to run one (more on that later). Your positive output goes to head and tail positive and to one post of the brakelight switch (next transmission), the other of the brakelight switch posts to the light in question.
    I figure the more I explain this system, the less likey somebody is to mess it up and the less frustrations encountered. Anybody else feel they're out in left field, pipe up and I will guide you home.
    BTW- 4 1.5 volt "AA" batteries of the rechargeable variety seem quite capable of powering the lights with the hotbox as a tricklecharger... I will have to see if the hotbox can harm the batteries...
     
  3. GAS-RIDEZ

    GAS-RIDEZ Member

    Headlight DIY

    SDC100014-1[1].jpg SDC100063[1].jpg SDC100053[1].jpg ''''''I have the Pat Pending of that invention sgt.""""':whistling:

    Naaaaa,just kidding sgt.:grin5:yours is more developed than mine, mine is simple.
     
  4. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    have the Pat Pending of that invention sgt.""""':whistling:

    Naaaaa,just kidding sgt.:grin5:yours is more developed than mine, mine is simple.[/QUOTE]

    Ya know, whatever works- yea, I spend a little more time fussing over 'pretty'... but yours shines just as bright. You DO want to paint the PVC- they rot in sunlight.
    Thought- do one of these with the full length of the endcap, switch inletted to the BOTTOM... and a vacu-formed chimney hood (like on a pre-WWI gas headlight) glued to the top and done up in high-quality brass paint.... eh?
     
  5. BigBlue

    BigBlue Active Member

    Great work Sgt.,

    Might work for me since I am electronics illiterate and don't know my way around a circuit. Since you are making a tutorial for those of us that are electrically challenged, I would recommend that you let others know that capacitors hold electrical charges and they maybe shocked if handled improperly. I know that you'd need a large capacitor from a computer or television to due serious harm. Just my 2 cents.

    Here's a Wikipedia on a Diode Bridge for those who'd like to know more about the circuit:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge

    Keep up the good work,

    Chris
    AKA: BigBlue
     
  6. GAS-RIDEZ

    GAS-RIDEZ Member

    Rechargeable led flashlight

    sgt. I dond have the time to paint it remained in the prototype phase, because the base can not stand the vibration, but change it for this rechargeable flashlight is, LED, have zoom and works quite well.
     

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  7. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Hmmm... looking at the photo- that's the remains of the mount sticking up from the front brake? Er... yes, that does seem a bit flimsey... I ought to do a tutorial about the mounts as well... as I am away from shop and materials when I write, I need to jot down critical dimentions as well as photos of the mounts without anything on them so I can post
     
  8. GAS-RIDEZ

    GAS-RIDEZ Member

    Yes that's the remains of the mount sticking up from the front brake.
     
  9. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Note to all- this sticky has been delayed due to several real-life issues. Nothing earth-shattering, simply supremely annoying. Further information will be posted this month, I promise
     
  10. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Brake light switch

    OK, here we go- part one. I will start with several images of the componants as they appear in an ACE Hardware store. The tubing and the orange fiberglass rod will be enough for several units, so you might want to go in dutch with several other fellows or figure manufacturing. MIND YOU- there is a maunfactured brake handle pair with built-in switches that I got for $22 ($11 per handle)- they seem quite sturdy and reliable, so you MIGHT want to go that route-
    but here's the Old Sgt.s' take on the subject...
     

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  11. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Brake light switch

    More of the same with internal shots- if you are clever enought to build a motorized bicycle, this should offer no challenge
     

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  12. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    brake light switch

    As seen in the prior transmission, the two brass screw heads go inside the tube to provide outside contacts- the brass washer (held LOOSELY by a small flat head screw) finishes the connection when the spring pushes it against the round heads. Now the set-up on the caliper is simple- the switch mounts to a bent piece of steel that is latched under the adjustment set of the cable for the brake. a short legnth of stainless steel necklas chain is attatched to the end of the orange fiberglass rod ans also to a tiny slipring- said slip ring loops onto the excess brake cable on the caliper. When the brake is relaxed, it pulls the rod down and interrupts the connection. When the brake is applied, it releases the rod and completes the connection, thus activating the light.
    The photo shows the first such unith I built- different hookups, but same principle
     

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  13. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    Brake lever with switch

    Great job Sarge.This way it keeps extra wire off the handle bars. I think I've shown you what I use for this in a prior post. It involves more wire going up the bars, but it's clean enough looking and easy to install. The price seems to have gone up on them since last time but it's still cheap enough.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Right-Hand-...ultDomain_0&hash=item51a70d192a#ht_937wt_1168
    Big Red.
     
  14. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Yea, that will work- an extra wire going up the handlebars is a minor issue compared to the labor that my switch involves... but sometimes those things can't be had, so I came up with this alternative
    Truth be told, I prefer the handle switch- easier to install and already built. But if you can't get it, or can't afford it, or just want to do something different... there it is.
    Next up will be battery compartments and a look at mounting hardware.
    PS- I've figured out how to put a brake switch on a coaster system. I think it's patentable...
     
  15. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    Thats always been my biggest problems, Trying to figure out where to put a battery box. On my personal bike I installed the ammo boxes. One side for the battery, flasher unit and such. one side for tools, rags, ect. On most bikes there's not a lot of room left over for a box.
    Ya gotta tell me how ya worked out a brake light on a coaster brake bike. You mentioned it a while back. I wasn't gonna ask cause I'm sure you don't want everyone running to the patant office. But I'm REAL curious about it.
    Also, I've got a couple people wondering when the next run of the Howard mounts is comming out.Soon I hope. You have my email so you can contact me through that if ya want.
    Hope to hear from ya soon.
    Big Red.
     
  16. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    I have been running a 'Panama Jack' with four 'AA' rechargables for the past few months with no ill effect or substandard performance. This is with the white wire/hotbox combination charging the batteries. Four penlights? I'm sure you can find room for that. Radio Trash even sells battery boxes for them.
     
  17. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    I've seen your battery setup before. Guess I just forgot. Four AA rechargables could go anywhere.
    Big Red.
     
  18. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Hotbox Housing

    ... And further down the rabbit hole we go-
    Here are four images of the main body finished out plus one of the whole operation on the bike product- the electronics are not inside at this time. This is where the bridge rectifier (hotbox) will go
     

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  19. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    More hotbox

    Here are four more shots of the mount on the bike- those screws holding the access plate will be replaced with round heads as soon as I buy them. I have a fellow in town who knows his way around plastics. He has explained to me what is involved in making a mold for injection, and I have come to realise that I have the tools and skills to do it while he has the savy to make the injector- between the two of us we might start production on a variety of bike mounted housings for a multitude of uses, mostly electronics and panniers and such... but now wouldn't it be cool to find out the stuff they make plastic gas carriers out of? We could roto-mold gas tanks!!!
    Personal note- Thursday I go to Seattle to get several arteries in my heart stented- it is called 'angioplasty' and it is much less effort and risk than a coronary arterial bypass with graft ('Cabbage' is the usual term). Should all go well, I will be back to work monday the 20th. If not... might be a bit longer...
     
  20. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Oops!

    Forgot the silly pictures!!!
    BTW- these are made out of genuine GOPHER WOOD! Yea, that's right- what Noah used to build the Ark! First person to tell me what that means gets a FREE hotbox for a China Trollop engine, just tell me the seat post diameter... or whatever diameter you wish to mount it on! Reply on this thread only!
     

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