80cc happy time broken mount. again.

[TREEWK]

Using A Stud In The Good Hole May Be Better, Unless Your Bolt Is Using All Available Threads , But Not Bottoming Out. Good Fix Though. Ron

 

[chrisnbush]

Thats a great fix for a broken motor mount. I haven't had a mount break, but earlier on in this "hobby" / addiction (still pretty much a newbie) I broke a stud.

From you pic, I am thinking that I might start hauling a BIG hose clamp with me, or at least keep it in mind as a temporary fix. I have one now that holds my muffler to the frame, acting kind of like a 3rd support but really there so my pedals will turn.

Wondering if putting the big hose clamp around the way you have your clamp would be a good temporary "on the road" fix for the big ride



cb

 

[MikeJ]

dudeimarobot - It looks functional to me. The fact that you can tighten a few more turns if needed is good.

Chrisnbush - Try the hose clamp routine. I understand they can get pretty long. I wonder if 20-inch lengths will be long enough. One clamp may be good for low-speed, low-stress running. For high speeds and hard hill pulling, I would strap on at least two clamps. I would advise you to loosen your current mount bolts and try some clamps for testing purposes. Testing your idea when many miles from home is not always the smartest way to do things.

Let us know how they work when you use them. Post some pictures for future readers.

MikeJ

 

[crackers]

dudeimarobot I'm kinda in the same boat your in, my left side motor mount has a crack in it that looks just like your break. (same exact shape) I mounted my engine by drilling the frame and using a piece of 1/4" flat stock with a hole drilled through the center for a bolt that runs through the flat stock and the frame, the flat stock is attached to the motor by the two studs from the motor mount. (standard front mounting method for a large frame) after seeing your fix I have made a L bracket out of the same flat stock, which is by the way is 1 1/8" wide, making enough room to use both case bolts. Seeing how my mount is just cracked I will still be able to use the stud coming from it. I'm hoping that the extra support from the two case bolts will keep my engine mount from braking all the way through. If it doe's it should still be supported by the case bolts. Did you enlarge the case bolts or the engine stud? If you enlarged the case bolts what size did you end up using? Thank's
Solitus this should work for you as well if you don't mind drilling your frame. I rounded off the squared corners of the L bracket and painted it with aluminuam paint. It looks like it was orignally made that way and not a patch job. You can get the flat stock at any Home Depo.

 

[dudeimarobot]

Sounds like you're on your way there cracker... I wanted to use both case bolts, but was not able to make it work at the time... I did not enlarge the case bolts, just went out and purchased high grade bolts. Add your photos to this thread if you can!

 

[crackers]

dudeimarobot, how long are your bolts going into the case? I have some # 5 10mm allrod I'm thinking about using as studs in the case so I know all threds are being used, then locktighting (blue) them and double nuting them. Do you think this would work better than the bolts? Still working on bracket mounting, pic's will follow.

 

[TREEWK]

Duh, I M Not Blonde. I Deleted That Post. For Some Reason I Had It In My Head That It Was The Rear Mount Breaking. I Put A Ht On My Desk A Few Minutes Ago To Take Pics Etc And Seen My Mistake. Sorry About That. Ron

 

[TREEWK]

Have 9 China Girl Kits That I Bought At Once, A Super Deal. Have Not Messed With Them Because Of All The Problems I Read About On The Forums. So I Have Been Using Titans And Pocket Bike Engines. Ron

 

[TREEWK]

Removed Front Stud, Was Only Screwed In About 1/2". Cut Off A Tooth Pick, Measured Depth = About 3/4". Bottom Of Hole Is Tapered, So Not Threaded All The Way. I Think The General Rule For Threads In Aluminum Is 3 Times The Bolt Dia. The Stock Studs Are Near 1/4" Dia. = 3/4" Threads Needed At Minimum. So We Are Short On Threads To Start With And A Poor Quality Engine Block Material. It Appears That Block Can Be Drilled Well Over 1" And Threaded With A Bottom Tap. It Seems Some Member Even Went To 5/16" Dia. Studs. Really Like The Looks Of The Kits Mounted. For The Price Of Ht Kits, One Can Do A Lot Of Mods. I Hope I Am Forgiven!! Lol.

 

[crackers]

Solitus, I have your answer, pics will be posted tomorrow, just waiting for paint to dry on bracket! Making the L bracket was easy, just heated the flat stock a little and bent it in a vice. The hard part (the part ware you have to think) is getting your four holes in the wright position, in my case it was five holes. I held the bracket in place and eye balled ware I thought the hole should be and marked the spot with a marking pen, then drilled a small hole and checked it again, then when I thought I was close I drilled my first hole. If you have to ajust it a little you can use a ratail file. Then you can put a bolt in to hold it in place. Then mark the next hole on the other end of the bracket and do the same, if you make a mistake you may have to start over with a new bracket but just take your time. Your Dad my have a even better idea of how to mark the holes for your bracket so be sure and get him involved! Good Luck and have fun, thats what it's all about.