A back and forth about Golden Eagle

I don't know

I kinda like that Hokey looking black cover !!!
At least mine hasen't broke yet ....
but I only have 700 miles on it.
 
About those black covers, on the underside, cut a square of good duct tape (I use Monster Gorilla Brand), and pierce it for installation. That will semi-prevent a crack from occuring. A rubber washer also helps cushion it.

I buy that red reflective tape for $5 at auto stores, again cutting off a square, and that is on the back of the covers.

Auto Store tape (I think it's 24") is enough to do 6-7 bike covers, but if the customer wants to get fancy, the tape will suffice until he/she gets around to adding a real reflector or brakes/blinkers.
 
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Front/Rear Suspension (GEBE) tips:

I just finished a ladies build, a used 21 speed Eddie Bauer (new $150???). Grey/Black, slight signs of rust.

UNCOMFORTABLE straight handlebars, the yoke extended it over the front tire.

The Suns and Treks that I buy run about $300-425, because they have MOST of what I like in a bike, curved handlebars, 21 speeds, 2.25 tires, shock absorber seat posts, 12" Cloud Nine saddles, rear stay clearances.

(But they still need the upgrades, $50 12g. wheel, $10 tubes, $12 mirror, etc.)

I had an extra 3 adj. setting yoke from an Avalon carcass, that fixed the too far forward feeling.

Black curved handlebars, new, are $20, installed by my bikeshop guy, $40. (Because you need slightly longer gear/brake cabling *4 cables X $5 each, INSTALLED).

Another quirk on the cheap bikes are fishy/ribbed hand grips, NOT comfortable for long distancing.

New Treks and Suns have a nice gelled grip. OR black foam like on my red cruiser, Rocinante is cheap. A long black tube of foam, $5 for enough to do 8 grips.

Anyway, you can make a super comfortable bike by substituting curved handlebars, and a wide saddle.

If you want to TRIPLE the comfort factor, add a shock absorber seat post ($18), and your *** will thank you.

Because of the front suspension, front basket legs are a separate matter. On the Eddie Bauer I added a medium deep "hang off the handlbars" wicker basket, (from the bike shop, not the p.o.junk WalMart type).
 
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The people at GEBE told me they were working on a frame mount setup (which more than likely would have a frame mounted rack of some kind and possible crank extensions). Any update on that? I really really really want a frame mount setup with Tanaka speed and GEBE drive reliability for my next project.
To get the look I'm going for, a frame mount is needed. I don't want to use a HT engine so I'm holding on and waiting for them.
Anyone sucessfully frame mount a GEBE system? If so, can you post some pics?
 
I could be wrong, but when Julia talks about a frame mount, she is reffering to the same style rack, with a solid mount attached to the frame. Having that long belt run from the main triangle like a happy time to that big drive ring would be nuts. They would need a total redesign
that would Include a gearbox.
 
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I'm sworn to silence on Den's future design.

But I think Andy is correct, Julia probably is talking about the mount modifications that most of us are doing nowadays.

Over the years, the kit keeps improving, little tweaks at a time, the biggest being the current clutch & elimination of the driveshaft back in late 2006.

Nowadays, with the air-cooled clutch housings, there just isn't much more can be done. Once you get in the 90% efficiency range, it's all good.

The Tanaka exhaust, fumes and noise, would be the work around if you put it inside the frame, but that would be a do-it-yourself project.

Because the GEBE belts have to be ordered in bulk, to fit all the engine sizes, and meet demands, the business models wouldn't support such small applications as a radical length belt. The GEBE mount system is a constant, while there are too many variations in bike frames.

There ARE other sources for belts if you want to experiment. One ?X?X?X?X company is out of Chicago, iirc.
 
Why is that? Isn't that essentially what a whizzer does?

Yes, but Whizzer isn't running a flat, toothed belt. (Theirs is a V-Belt.) The alignment on a V-Belt is nowhere near as critical as it is on a synchronous drive belt. Nor is the tension adjustment on a V-Belt as critical as on a synchronous drive belt.
 
and...whizzer uses both a primary and a secondary belt, with a slip-clutch in the middle.

imo, going in-frame with a centrifugal clutch and a short "primary" to a jackshaft, one could easily adapt the GEBE mount/tensioner & gear/belt/ring for one smooth running & non-slip "secondary."
 
I will stick with the rack mount
I want that hot, noisey, gas tank ---- behind me !!!!!
not between my legs !!!!!
 
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