Break In am i running my new engine too hard?

[wzuccarello]

The BUT, in cold weather, and engine will want to run richer because cold air is a lot more dense than warm air.

. I have even ran one of them at 40:1 a few times with no problems.

The cold air causes the fuel/ air mix to be LEANER. The air is denser, and that means more oxygen per each intake stroke.Not more fuel.

The ultralight aircraft engines are run near critical temps,and monitored with guages. I raise the needleclips on my Rotax 503 in the
winter, to keep from getting to close to max egt .

I've ran all my ultralights at 50/1 oil mix, Walmart oil. Some guys get 1200 hours on them with this mix.
Since I always have 50/1 mix around, that's whay my chinagirls get, and they seem to like it. Bout 1000 miles on a strait head and 250 miles on a slanthead.
My weedeaters and chainsaws like it too.

No reason to run rich oil mix nowdays, we have modern 2-stroke oils.
The old school numbers, 16/1 24/1 ect were for using strait mineral oil.


Too much oil causes more frequent maintenance. Early carbon buildup in the ring lands causes ring sticking,sometimes bad enough to overheat the piston and sieze.One of the jobs of the rings is to transfer heat from the piston to the cyl wall.
Xtra oil also causes the exhaust system to clog with carbon too.

 

[gator joe]

Everything u r saying sounds about right. If I were u I would run 8oz per gallon the first two tanks 6oz next two and 4oz the rest of the time.yes they run ruff wile doing the break in. Should not run longer than 20 minutes first two tanks. Is it cold were u live. .that's the only thing I could think of why you would have to use the hair dryer to heat it up thats weird I've never experienced that

 

[Fabian]

There was a good discussion here on break in. I am of the opinion with the floggers.

I agree. Every engine i have ever owned has been run at full power from the very start, with no bad effect.
My engines have always made more power on the dyno than those people who were very gentle with running in their engine.

 

[Fabian]

No reason to run rich oil mix nowdays, we have modern 2-stroke oils.
The old school numbers, 16/1 24/1 ect were for using strait mineral oil.

Completely incorrect advise when it comes to these Chinese 2-stroke engines.
2-stroke oil not only lubricates, because an engine with poor metallurgy and high levels of cylinder bore distortion, has a much greater requirement for hydrodynamic piston ring to bore sealing in dynamic operation, especially when the engine experiences low airflow over the cooling surfaces.

In my situation where the engine experiences almost 100% duty cycle with low airflow, 25:1 has proven to be the minimum oil/fuel ratio for dependable power output and good engine life.
For this reason, the oil quantity is important, not for lubricity purposes, but to combat blow-by caused by excessive bore distortion due to rubbish metallurgy.

Because 25:1 exceeds lubrication requirements the specification of the oil is largely irrelevant, other than it be rated for 2-stroke """air cooled""" engine operation.

In short, for these Chinese engines, get the cheapest """air cooled""" specification 2-stroke oil that you can get your hands on. The engine will live a long and happy life, so long as it is not over revved.

 

[butre]

Completely incorrect advise when it comes to these Chinese 2-stroke engines.
2-stroke oil not only lubricates, because an engine with poor metallurgy and high levels of cylinder bore distortion, has a much greater requirement for hydrodynamic piston ring to bore sealing in dynamic operation, especially when the engine experiences low airflow over the cooling surfaces.

In my situation where the engine experiences almost 100% duty cycle with low airflow, 25:1 has proven to be the minimum oil/fuel ratio for dependable power output and good engine life.
For this reason, the oil quantity is important, not for lubricity purposes, but to combat blow-by caused by excessive bore distortion due to rubbish metallurgy.

Because 25:1 exceeds lubrication requirements the specification of the oil is largely irrelevant, other than it be rated for 2-stroke """air cooled""" engine operation.

In short, for these Chinese engines, get the cheapest """air cooled""" specification 2-stroke oil that you can get your hands on. The engine will live a long and happy life, so long as it is not over revved.

all this talk of bore distortion and ****ty engines reminded me, a guy in Miami by the name of Bert Rod is cooking up a billet jug with a cast iron sleeve that should solve that bore distortion problem and improve cooling. knowing the way he works it'll probably be around $400 USD but it'll outlive a few hundred chinese top ends.

 

[Fabian]

a guy in Miami by the name of Bert Rod is cooking up a billet jug with a cast iron sleeve that should solve that bore distortion problem and improve cooling. knowing the way he works it'll probably be around $400 USD but it'll outlive a few hundred chinese top ends.

+1 Put me down for a jug and piston

 

[crassius]

:My engines have always made more power on the dyno than those people who were very gentle with running in their engine.

I order kits from whomever is cheap & acceptable. Some kit suppliers have engines that consistently run in faster and run faster after run in, no matter what break in method is applied.

Just no way to tell what is going on inside the motor.

 

[Fabian]

Just no way to tell what is going on inside the motor.

I agree.

Even from the same shipping container, some engines run better than others, despite appearing to be identical, both inside and outside.

 

[gator joe]

U can always tell what is going on inside ur motor. U just need to use common sense to determine what is going on. It will tell you just listen and look .i.e. cylinder. Spark plug. Carb..n so forth.sounds have always told me everything.

 

[crassius]

Which sound tells you when two of the ports have been machined out 2mm lower than they were supposed to be, or the bore measures a couple thou larger than the others do?