Another Schwinn Chopper build

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by Cavi Mike, Nov 22, 2011.

  1. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    So far I've picked up a BMI peanut tank, Kalloy seat-post and a saddle and added a left-hand freewheel to the rear wheel and made use of the OEM 44t chainring. A full-coverage OEM rear-fender is in the mail as is a Hayes V9 9" brake rotor for the front.

    The rotor is gonna be a bit tricky since the front fork on these things comes down where the rotor needs to be. I'm not gonna be able to simply build a disc-brake wheel to suit my needs like I did with my cruiser, I'm going to have to modify the OEM hub to accommodate a rotor while maintaining clearance with the fork.

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  2. pickled

    pickled New Member

    looks cool already. how do these bikes fit an adult? I'm considering one for my next build.
     
  3. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    The OEM saddle is the biggest problem. Once you get rid of that, you free up a ton of leg room. I'm also going to run shorter cranks, probably 130mm, which will give me even more room and allow me to run a pull-start without any problems with interference.
     
  4. RallySTX

    RallySTX New Member

    Hi Mike, I was wondering if the sadle came from the same place as the post? It looks a lot comfyer than the stock one I have. Mine is electric, or will be when done. You can get premade wheels with brake rotor mounts from Choppers.us http://www.choppersus.com/store/
    My question is how are you gonna mount the caliper?
    Brian L.
     
  5. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    No, I didn't get them at the same place. The saddle is actually just an OEM Huffy Panama Jack saddle. Cionlli makes a pretty comfy and attractive cruiser-style saddle, I'd check them out first. The post I found on ebay, it's a 31.8mm post.

    About mounting the rotor: it's not that I need a wheel built, it's that disc-brake hubs are a standard distance from the jam-nut on the axle and the forks on these bikes are non-standard and interfere with the rotor. The fork ends are on-center with the fork tubes instead of on the inside tangent and you lose about 1/2" of clearance on each side of the wheel. If you're thinking about going disc-brake on the front, please be aware that a standard disc-brake hub will not work. I will take some pictures when I get home from work.
     
  6. RallySTX

    RallySTX New Member

    No need for pics man, I got two of em in my living room. One is stock, the other is being converted to electric power. My build thread on ES.
    http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22134
    I'm having a locan machine shop mill a mount for a caliper on the rear end. But these seats are murder on my arse. Plus the Spoiler one is so hard to find, that it should be replaced just to keep it safe. Peace, and Happy Thanksgiving.
    Brian L.
     
  7. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    I forgot to reply to your other question about mounting the caliper:
    I myself am a machinist and make my brackets. I have coworkers weld them to the forks. Peace and happy holidays to you also.
     
  8. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    yeah the oem seat is terrible for an adult.
    That seat pushes you up and forward towards the handlebars.
    I put a standard 10 speed seat on mine and modified the mountin so that the back of the seat almost touches the rear fender.
    I have the seat down as low as it can go so that it sits right on top of the frame.
    it looks so much better and is a lot more comfy.
    I'm 5' 6" and weight 150, and i can ride my occ all day long.
     
  9. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    I have seen builders mount a bannana seat and sissy bar on the OCC Schwinn to make the fit an adult better.
     
  10. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    I ordered a butt-load of parts and FINALLY they started showing up. Well, one part anyways. 16" motorcycle tires fit mint on these rims, I couldn't believe it. Since it fit so well I think I'm going to get a real nice tire, not just this cheapo no-name. I'm thinking maybe a Bridgstone Battlax 130/70-16. I'm still not quite sure what I'm doing for front but most likely a Nirve Bada$$.

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    Last edited: Dec 2, 2011
  11. RallySTX

    RallySTX New Member

    Nice work with the tire and rim. How well fo you rate those OCC rims? My experience is that it's nearly impossible to get a decent one used. They are always damaged, and the spokes are too thin, and weak, for adults like me. I love the width, and the availability of replacements from Choppers.US is apealing, but the general construction is such that several wheel builders I know refuse to use them. They choose to use moped rims instead. How much heavier is the DOT tire compared to the stock one?
    Brian L.
     
  12. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    The wheel as a whole really is pretty cheap. Though the rim is aluminum, it's a very thin gauge single-wall that's not even welded at the seam, just crimped. I had a coworker weld mine for me. The spokes are 14ga steel, not stainless. The hub is mild-steel so, while cheap and heavy, it's sure stronger than any aluminum hub and I'm OK with it. I wish this was a 48h wheel not a 36h but the reality is that it's going to be just fine for tooling around on pavement at 30mph.

    And yes, the real motorbike tire is substantially heavier. Though I don't have a scale, its shipped weight was 10lbs in shrink-wrapped plastic so I'd say that's pretty well accurate. I wanted to go for a real motorbike tire for multiple reasons: Puncture resistance, wear, value but of course the most important factor, appearance. I'm OK with it weighing almost as much as the frame, there's nothing about the Schwinn tire I like.
     
  13. RallySTX

    RallySTX New Member

    Sounds like an honest assesment to me! Thanks man, I think both of us are on the same page there. Unfortunately, I don't have a handy welder dude waiting in the closet, so I'll be leaning toward more substantial stuff for my purposes. I decided the bent one I have was better suited as a Christmas decoration, until the LED string that was on it decided to fail. Happy Holidays.
    Brian L.
     
  14. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    The cheap stamped-steel triple-trees and the stubby forks were killing me so I picked up some longer forks from http://www.bicycledesigner.com. They are also wider so I don't have to worry about brake disc clearance and an added bonus: Brake caliper mount already there! Nevermind the wheels, they're from other bikes.

    I want to keep them full length(42" now, stock 28") but I have a feeling they're going to flex too much for my liking. But they sure look ridiculous, don't they?! I love them.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. RallySTX

    RallySTX New Member

    They look F'ing Beautiful!! That rake looks just about right too. Now you just gotta set the trail. I have a poster on another forum who said the OCC chopper frames are too thin for serious consideration. I have two, and I'm useing one for short coasting vids now. I just think the wheels are bunk. Those forks are nice looking for sure. I can't figure out how that steer tube is gonna get by without some serious support. Yeah those forks would bow slightly under hard use, but I don't think I would exclude them for that reason. If they had the springers I want in stock, those would be a very nice substitute. Looks like a steel FS bike with downhill geometry, is the way forward on our streets. They are rough roads, and the FS bike would look nicer with springers too, I think. Seems like that's the only way I'm gonna get a decent long range chopper.
    Brian L.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2011
  16. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    The frame isn't finished yet, that's all getting boxed back in once I decide on the amount of rake I want and the length of the forks. That flops around like a wet noodle the way it is right now and I'm sure it's going to completely break apart by the time I get it welded but hopefully not before I figure out how I want it.
     
  17. RallySTX

    RallySTX New Member

  18. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    That's good to know. I have a ton of "flop" as it's described. I'm definitely going to address this.
     
  19. RallySTX

    RallySTX New Member

    Side to side flop was what I got when I swapped out the 24 inch front to a 26 inch front wheel. You either need to reduce the wheel size, lower the fork rake, or shorten them. Alternately, a spacer to move the axle out toward the front of the forks would help, but then you would have to move the brake mount too. That's unless you can get a set of custom trees made, with enough angle to allow the trail to line up.
    Brian L.
     
  20. Cavi Mike

    Cavi Mike Member

    I slid the forks up 8.5" and raised the center of the bike up 2" but that still only got me to 45* and the calculator on that link you gave me is still saying almost 10" trail. I'm not sure what I want to do right now. I wanted a springer front-end originally and that alone would solve all of my problems but I can't find one. If I made one I would be stuck painting it because I don't know any chromers and I'm not sending it out. Wanting to stay chrome is one of the reasons I bought these instead of modifying the OEM forks for disc brakes.

    I'm thinking my only option right now is making a new bottom tree unless I can find a springer front-end.
     
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