Chain Tensioner Another TSC spring loaded chain tensioner

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by HoughMade, Jul 2, 2009.

  1. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    Thanks to Misteright1_99 who is the first guy I know who used the Tractor Supply sourced roller and arm for a spring loaded chain tensioner.

    I've had the parts for over a year. Now it is done. The pics will tell most of the story, but a few hints.

    First, rather tha bending all thread, I used a plated 5/16" x 1 1/4", long u-bolt. I went to Napa and got a 1 1/8" muffler clamp and used the saddle, which fits the seat post perfectly. The saddle helps the u-bolt clamp solid so this whole thing is rock solid. One arm of the u-bolt had to be cut shorter to clear under the gearbox. You can see the washers and spacers. The spacers are 1/2" steel tubing cut to length.

    The roller arm has a 3/8" hole, so I got a steel tube spacer that made up the different between the 5/16" bolt and the 3/8" hole.

    I also made a plate from 16 ga sheetmetal which bolts to both u-bolt arms. the tab bends uner the u bolt and captures the end of the sping to provide tension.

    I had to retain the original tensioner, but just to guide the chain for chain clearance. I like the spring action.
     

    Attached Files:


  2. SWEET. Nice and clean...............
     
  3. kiwirider

    kiwirider New Member

    I like it..
    So when is one of the suppliers of the in-frame china girl engine kits going to do the right thing and start stocking a better tensioner?? From all the posts made about the chain tensioner problems I think someone can make some money by selling them..
     
  4. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

  5. skjjoe

    skjjoe Member

    very nice that's almost exactly like i did mine
     
  6. Bikewer

    Bikewer New Member

    I don't have any pics, but a few years ago I built a recumbent bike and made my own chain-tensioner/idlers from rollerblade wheels.
    There were a couple of articles on how to do this on the recumbent sites, as commercial idlers are rather expensive.
    You need to use the "extra hard" wheels, and then sort of machine a groove into them. I used a drill press and a small, sharp chisel; worked fine.
    Easy to mount up using standard bolts and nuts.
     
  7. kiwirider

    kiwirider New Member

    I ordered another idler wheel with the bearing and pin to give the stock setup another go. Got it the other day and set it up. It is the same thing, but different. The new one is a slightly different design and works much better in the way that the pin sits in the slot and tightens up. So, I will see how long this one lasts, not that the last one was shot, but just about... I still had to pack the bearing out with washers to make it line up, but every one is a little different I guess.
    I will keep working on a design I think I can make someday and hope it is not needed too soon..!
     
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