H
HoughMade
Guest
Thanks to Misteright1_99 who is the first guy I know who used the Tractor Supply sourced roller and arm for a spring loaded chain tensioner.
I've had the parts for over a year. Now it is done. The pics will tell most of the story, but a few hints.
First, rather tha bending all thread, I used a plated 5/16" x 1 1/4", long u-bolt. I went to Napa and got a 1 1/8" muffler clamp and used the saddle, which fits the seat post perfectly. The saddle helps the u-bolt clamp solid so this whole thing is rock solid. One arm of the u-bolt had to be cut shorter to clear under the gearbox. You can see the washers and spacers. The spacers are 1/2" steel tubing cut to length.
The roller arm has a 3/8" hole, so I got a steel tube spacer that made up the different between the 5/16" bolt and the 3/8" hole.
I also made a plate from 16 ga sheetmetal which bolts to both u-bolt arms. the tab bends uner the u bolt and captures the end of the sping to provide tension.
I had to retain the original tensioner, but just to guide the chain for chain clearance. I like the spring action.
I've had the parts for over a year. Now it is done. The pics will tell most of the story, but a few hints.
First, rather tha bending all thread, I used a plated 5/16" x 1 1/4", long u-bolt. I went to Napa and got a 1 1/8" muffler clamp and used the saddle, which fits the seat post perfectly. The saddle helps the u-bolt clamp solid so this whole thing is rock solid. One arm of the u-bolt had to be cut shorter to clear under the gearbox. You can see the washers and spacers. The spacers are 1/2" steel tubing cut to length.
The roller arm has a 3/8" hole, so I got a steel tube spacer that made up the different between the 5/16" bolt and the 3/8" hole.
I also made a plate from 16 ga sheetmetal which bolts to both u-bolt arms. the tab bends uner the u bolt and captures the end of the sping to provide tension.
I had to retain the original tensioner, but just to guide the chain for chain clearance. I like the spring action.