anyone bought this?

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by masterx1234, Apr 14, 2010.

  1. masterx1234

    masterx1234 Member


  2. moondog

    moondog Member

    Yes. It took some messing around to get it working right but those motors scream !

    3 bearings, 2 on the engine side with a very heavy duty engine mount.

    It may weigh more than the other kits but it is way heavy duty. Check out the bearing holder welded on the side.

    On a friction drive it is well worth the time it takes to get things straight.

    I put little tack welds on my bracket where it bolts to the frame to keep things straight.
     
  3. give me vtec

    give me vtec Active Member

    I wouldn't buy one... I just ordered a another staton kit. 206 shipped... without the motor. I have an eho35 laying around I am going to put on it. Both are bulletproof.

    Both staton and robin/subaru are two companies I know for sure are top notch quality... I dont know about the people that made the engine and kit that are on ebay.

    You always.... always get what you pay for.
     
  4. masterx1234

    masterx1234 Member

    well i actually already bought the motor, so all i need is the kit, guess ill buy one of those kits from bikemotorparts.com since it seems to be in my price range
     
  5. moondog

    moondog Member

    They didn't weld on that bearing holder or add the extra bearing on the heavy duty engine mount to save money.

    I have seen all three kits and this one by far is the most heavy duty.

    Maybe the best for a beefy motor.

    edit: the motor had the little adjustment screws on the carb and no labels. It screamed.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2010
  6. professor

    professor Active Member

    Isn't that a seller one of the guys here warns us about?
     
  7. moondog

    moondog Member

    I think so. The design is worth the study. The quality is way made in China.

    The holes may be drilled in the wrong places then redrilled.

    The shaft might not line up and you may need to adjust the channel in a vice and then weld small pieces of angle to keep it straight.

    For sure not high quality like Staton.

    The heavy duty spacer between the motor and the channel is machined to fit half a bearing and the other half of the bearing fits in the holder welded onto the channel that holds the second bearing.

    The other side of the engine mount is machined to fit tightly into the motor.

    If there is a better designed friction drive mounting setup I have not seen it.

    Made in China quality.

    BMP should copy this design and add a bracket on the other side to hold a small generator to charge a battery and run lights.

    edit : and they should all work on better brackets that don't vibrate loose and make the roller out of align with the tire. I think this is the main cause of excess tire wear.

    And round off the square corners some. All the square corners make it look unfinished.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2010
  8. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

  9. moondog

    moondog Member

    Hey, they have 5 negs out of 116 feedbacks. Not lookin good !

    I would get a BMP kit and save up for a robin engine.

    5 year warranty $139

    http://www.bikemotorparts.com/
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2010
  10. Casey

    Casey New Member

    No good in wet weather (rain, sleet,snow etc.)
     
  11. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    That's not true.

    I've purchased several friction drives from the top two vendors. Both are top quality, but BMP is MUCH cheaper than the other for my situation. The other guy absolutely kills me with UPS charges, while BMP offers free shipping. And since I change rollers and bearings often, BMP's slipfit design works better for me. It costs me $80 to remove a 1.5" roller and bearings from the other guy.

    FWIW, I have no need of experimenting with another friction drive kit.

    BTW, the versatility of BMP's kit and its cheap price allows me to use it as a base for my prototypical belt drive and chain drive projects. My belt drive should cost less than $75; my chain drive a little over $100.

    Sometimes you get MORE than what you pay for.:detective:

    Sometimes you get what you pay for.

    Sometimes you get shafted and get less than what you pay for.
     
  12. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    To be fair, apples and apples:

    UPS shipping to Hawaii must be problematic for just about anything.

    Staton FD kits are available, complete with Robin EHO35 engine, throttle cable, throttle lever and a great kill switch for $399 and free shipping

    The BMP kits, without an engine are $166.50, including cable, lever, switch and shipping.

    The best retail price I've seen on a Robin 35 is around $230 shipped.

    166
    230
    396

    BMP now charges shipping for parts.

    Changing a roller on a Staton FD has never cost me a penny. I do have a cheap shop press, use it for many things other than MBs, paid $60 at a HF.
     
  13. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

    so happy, youd go with staton then?

    thank you.
     
  14. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Hi occ

    Just stating what I think is fair comparison.

    I have both and think both are fine really. The BMP kits are a copy of the Staton after all. I did like the BMP one-way clutch roller but I see they are not being offered any longer. Some of the choice might depend on what engine one wants to use. If it's a Robin 35 then yeah I'd definitely go with Staton, since he retails that engine new on a regular basis. If someone is thinking about using a HF clone or sourcing something else, then maybe BMP is the way to go.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2010
  15. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

    Happy,

    ok, fair enough.

    so if you had a second to decide,

    a. staton fd/ subaru free shipping 399.00 or

    b. grubee 50cc 4 stroke clone and bmp drive?

    any why?

    do you know b.'s costs? 189 +30?, 139 +12?

    thanks again!
     
  16. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    occ

    You'll still need a throttle cable, lever and kill switch. 15.50

    PM sent
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2010
  17. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

    happy,
    thank you for your input. :)
    very helpful
     
  18. moondog

    moondog Member

    I would pick the BMP kit because I could weld on brackets to rubber mount it. Friction drive can be completely rubber mounted.

    I would also weld bearing holders on both sides. It's steel.

    Easier for me to mod than the Staton kit. I am not even going to try and weld on the Staton.

    I'm seeing it kinda like 5-7HEAVEN. A great kit to modify.

    The Robin can run on homemade ethanol fuel and is smooth.

    Smooth rubber mounted friction drive on homemade ethanol. :cool:

    I took my Staton/Mitsubishi off and that is what I am going to do. :D

    P.S. see if BMP will still sell the fab plans. :grin5:
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2010
  19. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Hey moondog, yeah as I see it, it's a bit of a toss-up, one copied the other so not much difference in them really. Staton does do his own fabbing and machining. The one-way clutch rollers were a great idea IMO but looks like they're gone and I am one who liked channels better when they were fabbed from aluminum, I can weld on it and it's just a lot easier to work if drilling is needed, bit lighter too.
    I remember the DIY vids on building your own and then they were taken down, that was before BMP went into business selling kits.
     
  20. occchopperfl

    occchopperfl Member

    Hi Happy and Moondog and All! :)

    I asked the moderator to move my post/thread on friction drive in the rack mount forum to here. Just in case, here it is. (Happy -
    btw, i know you loved your staton/subaru 35 cc setup)
    just a few more choices to share.

    (* - EDITED)
    Im still thinking things through about engine and drive.
    I want a "plug and play" build, "commuter/ daily driver quality"
    (my new donor bike is a huffy cranbrook)

    For my second bicycle build, I want to move to a chain drive, or GEBE drive or belt drive rear mount or mid frame mount application.

    Choices:

    FD Rear Mount - a. Staton
    b. BMP
    c. Gurbee
    d. GEBE

    Engine: a. Subaru 35cc 4 stroke * (workshorse @1.6hp)
    b. Tanaka 40cc 2 stroke * (workhorse as well, @2 hp)
    c. Tecumseh 49cc 2 stroke * (workhorse @2 hp - out of business, lots of parts available?)
    d. gurbee 49cc 4 stroke * (2 hp, how reliable? with gerbee rear mount drive)?
    e. 49cc chinese 2 stroke honda clone * (2 hp, but how reliable?
    http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/49enwimapust.html

    A fellow forum member made mention of a staton/subaru deal at 400.00 free ship.

    so, what do you think and why?

    I value you opinions and thank you in advance for your responses.

    Decisions, Decisions... :)
     
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