Anyone Having Problems With Staton Clutch Drum Spacer?

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by 5-7HEAVEN, Apr 25, 2009.

  1. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I'm having problems bolting my GP460 engine onto my Staton friction drive. Just couldn't get the four bolts started. Top two thread easily, then bottom ones won't even start. Bottom two thread in, then top two won't go in. Doesn't matter if I turn the spacer to any position. Bolts and holes have been cleaned w/WD-40.

    Sooo, I removed the engine, flipped it over and dropped the clutch drum into place.

    This is without the engine channel, just engine, spacer, drum, bearing and roller in place. When I tried to thread the bolts in it's the same story.

    :detective:Four bolts will NOT thread in because the spacer itself is a fraction of a millimeter too wide.

    I marked the bolts' position on the spacer and will grind it down for fit.

    Come to think of it I've also had problems reinstalling the Mitsubishi engines whenever I change rollers (I also change clutch drums and spacers when I change rollers).

    Anyone else having this problem?
     

  2. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    5-7
    I've used the Robin 35, Mits TLE43 and Mits T200 engines on with my Staton FD. Each time I've swapped out an engine there is a little jiggling necessary to get all four bolts started, backing one out or starting the other corner or just getting all four caught by one thread slightly, etc. They fit, a bit tight but they do go on.
     
  3. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    But This One WON'T Bolt On!

    Happy I've R&R'd many engines onto the engine channels. Some slipped right on, some I had to install the fourth bolt loose. Some engines have literally locked up on me until I loosened the engine bolts.

    ALWAYS check to make sure you can pullstart the engine after you bolt it onto the channel and BEFORE you mount the assembly onto the bike.

    Ask me how I know three times.:whistling:

    Methinks that's why BMP uses 3/8" ID aluminum tubes as engine bolt spacers.

    These tubes are also shorter so the BMP allows for 56% MORE CLUTCH SURFACE than the other vendor. They're also cheaper.

    I'm gonna grind down the spacer for interference fit near the bolts. That way I don't have to fiddle around to thread in the engine bolts.
     
  4. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Problem Solved!

    Well, 30 minutes of filing the drum spacer alongside the four bolts cured the problem.:sweatdrop:

    I can now hand-tighten all of them until they bottom out.

    Problem solved.

    FYI, if the roller is assembled, try not to get filings into the bearing. :grin5:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 25, 2009
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