Wheels Anyone true their own wheels?

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by Chopper, Jul 30, 2007.

  1. Chopper

    Chopper Guest

    Looking for tips to be able to do mine at home.

  2. iRide Customs

    iRide Customs Member

    Patience...that's all I got for ya.

  3. OldPete

    OldPete Guest

    I have built 10+ pairs of wheels, road and MTB. Truing self built wheels is a snap because of the prep that is done...like lubing the threads with bee's wax before assembly. Trying to true a wheel with frozen nipples will not be fun. Nipples can be heated with a 60W soldering iron after a drop of oil placed on the spoke end to be drawn in by the heat.

    I would strongly recommend disassembling a junk wheel and practice building and truing. For a truing stand I use an old road bike fork clamped in the bench vice or the bicycle up-side-down. I use a dial indicator but coat hanger works well as a pointer for young sharp eyes.

    Google making a dishing tool. I don't use one, I just use a straight edge to the frame.
    Very good info and to the point. http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

    NOTE: Carry a few zip-ties to tie off broken spokes to prevent more damage.
  4. thatsdax

    thatsdax Guest

    Truing is not

    Truing is not a big deal.. Unless your rim is not serviceable. If rim can be trued, it is not a big deal. Spin wheel and decide on which side you need to pull. Once you decide, use brake pad and push it or bias it towards the rim. Gently spin rim and where it touches the brake pad or gets close to it, simply tighten the spokes " usually 2 or 3 depending on the size of the spot" that will pull the rim the other way. not a big deal at all. I had a rim truing tool that you pull the wheel off the bike and put it into this tool and it is a precise for sure. But.. I have found that truing on the bike is as good. Sometimes even better since there could be a bias of the wheel needed for that particular bike posture that the truing tool can not account for. So.. I sold my truing tool on ebay. And have gone back to truing on the bike. It is much easier on the bike too since you do not have to remove the wheel. Thanks.. Enjoy the ride...
  5. Chopper

    Chopper Guest

    Thanks for the tips guys, will save me a few dollars at the bike shop fersure!
  6. OldPete

    OldPete Guest

    True! Truing is not difficult...But

    If one expects a wheel to stay true under heavy loading all the spokes must be of equal tension.
    Do remember that the left rear spokes will be tensioned less than the right rear because of hub offset. Sheldon Brown explains these things in the link I offered.
    Practice. Build an old wheel as the ultimate learning experience. :cool:
  7. az cra-z

    az cra-z Guest

  8. Chopper

    Chopper Guest

    Useful info found in another post.

  9. OH YEAH, as long as your patient, you can do it.
  10. smitty

    smitty Guest

    Truing wheels is not difficult if all the parts are in good order. i.e. rim is straight (not bent), no broken spokes, etc.
    There are four things to watch for: roundness; flatness (wobble); dish; and tension.
    To remove wobble, tighten the spokes on the side you want to move the rim toward, while simultaneously loosening the spokes on the opposite side. If you don't loosen the opposite side you will pull a flat spot in the rim. (then it's out of round).
    Roundness can be adjusted by tightening the spokes at the high spot and loosening the spokes at the lows. If the wheel is not too tight, you can sometimes get away with just tightening the high spots. Sometimes low spots are bent rims, caused by hitting a curb or pot hole, especially if the tire is under inflated. Often at such a spot, the rim will have a wide spot (called a "blip") where the brake will tend to grab. A flat spot like this is hard to remove, but the blip an be pushed back in by supporting one side (at a time) of the rim against (perhaps) the edge of a work bench and tapping the blip GENTLY with a hammer.(The edge of the work bench works well because it's easy to see your progress looking down at the rim.) Be really careful not to push it in too far because it usually can't be moved back out.
    Dish refers to the rim being centered between the parts of the axle that touch the inside of the fork ends/ drop outs. Because the rear wheel often has a multiple gear cluster on the right side, the axle has spacers under the cluster so that the hub is not centered. If the rim were centered between the flanges of the hub it would not be centered in the frame (most noticeable between the seat stays).
    As for tension, if the wheel is too loose, it will loosen further with miles. If its too tight it may "potato chip" (collapse, and assume the shape of a potato chip) with a side load, (hard cornering?) thereby releasing all the tension at once.
    The process starts by spinning the wheel and watching the movement against a fixed point like the brake shoe, or perhaps a bit of wire wrapped around the chain stay, to create a pointer aimed at the rim. The movement is easier to see if the tire and tube are removed. Spin and watch the rim a lot, and turn the spoke nipples in small amounts (1/4 turn or less).(Sometimes a drop of penetrating oil on each nipple is necessary.)
    If it doesn't seem to get any better, or gets worse, the rim may be bent and no amount of truing will fix it. If that's the case take it to a bike shop for advice.
    I could go on and on but I think I better stop here. Good luck.
  11. atcspaul

    atcspaul Guest

    i just ordered this stand from bike nashbar. they are haveing a good sale on it right now. will let you all know what i think. should have it monday http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...oretype=&estoreid=&pagename=Show All Products
    i have tried on my bike using the break pads and you can get pretty close. from my experience to get the really perfect you need to use a stand. the rounder the better it will roll and the more speed you will get out of the bike and i know we all love to go zoom zoom:p
  12. mickey

    mickey Guest

    I bought that exact model for my son-in-law. I have to admit that I used it to replace all those busted spokes from my original build before I gave it to him. It worked like a dream. It took me about an hour to replace the 9 broken spokes and true, round, and dish the wheel using this stand, and every minute was fun.
  13. nwguy

    nwguy Guest

    I used to be the wheel builder guy for a shop in Wash. DC that catered to racers. A few tips; tighten or loosen spokes in even numbered groups for best results. After building a wheel or lots of truing, it's good to stress the wheel by grabbing alternating pairs of spokes (in several directions) and squeezing the pairs. Do this with a fair bit of force. Then retrue as needed. If you ever need to replace a rim, and if you can get a replacement rim that takes the same spoke lengths, you can simply put the new rim along side the old and move the spokes over, one at a time to the the new rim, then true as needed.
  14. davidsis

    davidsis Guest

    Used that sheldon brown site it is good
  15. taigascout

    taigascout New Member

    Has anyone considered making a solid-style back wheel so every component works in unison, like those race bikes have where there are no spokes?
    I don't know I am fresh fish.
  16. turkeyssr

    turkeyssr Guest

    I've been considering that idea myself while I'm waiting for the new DAX kit to arrive (to be sold). This guy: http://stores.ebay.com/Taibilllin-Bicycle-Rims-And-Wheels
    sells these types of wheels, BUT, I'm uncertain about the 'trueness' of these wheels or the potential hop that may be possible. In the feedback ratings, there are some complaints of this, but you have to remember that these are inexpensive rims (as compared to true carbon fiber versions). I may go for it, or try a 'Wheelmaster' set. I'm still in the 'planning my motored bike' phase. --John
  17. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    "the wheelmaster" set is very tempting.He guarantees some of his wheels for a lifetime so he must have a heck of a lot of confidance in them.....if your interested PM and see what he sayes.
  18. Normally when my rear wheel goes bentage I just cruise around the garage sales and pick up a 10 dollar bike for the wheel. I tell you,man. I spent my last dollar on some gas so broke here as broke does.
    So I'm looking at what I got. A nice front wheel from same donor bike my 2nd wheel came from. I also have these 24 inch rims. I went ahead and put that onmy bike. I lost rear brakes but I figure it's gonna be slow and sure enough. SLOW.
    So I'm checking out this front wheel and it's as straight as an arrow so I take off the spokes,zip tie it against my bent back rim,lined up the holes and proceeded to move the spokes one at a time from the original rim to the front rim (check out pics) Sucess! HEY! That was easy! So I got it on the donor bar forks after spreading them out good bike upside down and I'm adjusting the spokes now. Not only is it EXACTLY WARPED LIKE MY OTHER RIM it also HOPS!
    Oh man this spoke tuning takes skills,man.
    I'm cracking up here!
    I'll just get another bike this weekend for the parts. For now 24 inch rim get me down low cool yo.

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