Anything look wrong (pics)

The kill switch has already been taken off. Thats what the visible wires are. I'm not actually grounding the switch on the screw, just holding the wire there. The blue and black connections are individually wrapped in electrical tape and I'm getting a perfect spark. Blue-Green, Black-Black. Could the wires inside the engine or CDI be backwards? My clutch is really tight, hence the little play, but it does fully engage. I wonder why it's so tight? If I tighten the cable anymore it won't engage and if I loosen it anymore it won't disengage. I have already gone through the troubleshooting guide about one hundred times. It's very useful and I'm thinking the carb isn't mixing the fuel and air correctly or it's flooding the engine. What happens inside the carb when you push the tickler? Thank you for all your help. I'll quadruple check everything mentioned
 
The tickler just pushes down on the float when pushed. Allows you to manually add fuel to the bowl, even when it full. On the clutch look at the cable inside the outer jacket, mine was frayed when brand new, and was very hard to pull and would not release clutch.....Take your spark plug out and see if there is gas on the plug. Do you hear the pop pop pop when you try to start it?
 
Here are some pictures from the engine kit that refuses to start. Anything look wrong to you?

Spark:check
Fuel in bowl: check
compression:check
clutch engaging:check
Explosion: :confused:

I'm thinking that the carb isn't doing its job. I'm pretty sure its assembled correctly. Is the gas not making it out of the bowl? I mixed 5 ounces of Castrol 2-stroke motorcycle oil with a gallon of gas. Really, as frustrating as this is, I'm also having fun figuring out how these little things work :)
I know you did not Buy the motor Kit from Me( BlueCollarBike) But if you need some assistance And wish to give Me Or Grandpa Rick A call We will do our best to Diagnosis your Problem Over the phone In hopes to get you up and Running .


Hope this Helps
Cheers:)

Bob

BlueCollarBike

860-673-6457
 
Clutch arm. Loosen your cable. Now bring your clutch arm towards your engine until it doesn't want to go anymore with no effort. Tighten cable.
When your clutch lever is out there should be very little play and no tension. In fact,it may be okay even to have a bit of play like a millimeter or two when you depress your clutch before your clutch arm starts disengaging your clutch.
It really looks like in that pic that you wanted total free play when you depress your clutch. That's all well and good but you also want total clutch engagement when you let go of your lever. That looks like your clutch is not fully engaged.
When you pedal off and release your clutch does your engine spin?

Sorry for sounding Romper Room but we gots to look at everything.
 
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I have combustion! The problem was so simple, but a big one. Apparently the engine wasn't getting any fuel or air from the carb. The throttle piece that goes down was completely blocking the intake to the engine. All I had to do was unscrew the ring where the throttle cable meets the carb counterclockwise a couple times which pulled the throttle piece up a bit inside the carb. Now I can tighten everything up and make the wiring more neat. Thanks to everyone who offered their help. I really appreciate it. It runs a littler slow right now (doesn't really make it up a hill:???:), but i have heard that gets better. Happy times! :D
 

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Hey mister,
The slide is on right. I think when i installed it i tightened that ring to much. I still have the idle set to 4.5 turns. It runs pretty smooth, so I think everything is okay now.We'll see in the next few days. Thanks again for your input :) I'll post back as things get broken in.
 
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