Are there any benefits from gearing a motor bike kit?

I would also purchase the optional left hand side chain tensioner and the right hand side chain tensioner, because these two items (although not required) make the shift kit bullet proof in practice; giving total reliability as well as increasing it's service life.






 
This is the simple (cost free) fix with better aesthetics than the powder coated discs that you see in the video, in that they've been drilled with 6mm holes and linished back to a brushed aluminium finish.


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but a much better option is the installation of Terracycle ball bearing, flanged sprocket idler wheels, and they look far more professional than the standard idler wheels supplied with the right hand side chain tensioner:


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I have copied this post from another thread, describing what can happen to the White Industries Freewheel if you run the 67082RS bearing to failure:






You will find that pawls have not failed (they are bullet proof), but it's the 67082RS bearing that will have failed:


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and when the bearing completely fails, the inner and outer shells separate from each other, which in turn chews out the blue locking ring; allowing the jackshaft sprockets attached to the outer section of the Heavy Duty freewheel bearing to move outwards, thereby detaching itself from the pawl mechanism.

Although the White Industries Heavy Duty Freewheel bearing is a far superior design in material construction and durability than the basic freewheel bearings on the market, the weak link in the system is the 67082RS bearing.
From my experience, and as part of regular maintenance, you "MUST" be vigilant in inspecting the bearing slop, by grabbing the 44 tooth sprocket and giving it a wiggle. The bearing should be changed when slop gets to about 1/8 of an inch.

So long as you replace the bearing when it starts to give out, you won't have any problems with it failing on a ride.
If the bearing does suffer a complete failure, you "MUST" replace not only the bearing but also the blue locking ring and the snap ring and dust seal, regardless if they look ok.

SickBikeParts sells these components individually (including the 67082RS bearing), but you have to ask for them by name.
 
Just felt like I needed to clear some stuff up. While we love Fabian to death because he has pushed our products past their design intent and provided very useful feedback he has done just that, gone past their design intent. So while Fabian has lots of neat ideas and good feedback, MOST of the things he recommends are not REQUIRED. As you can clearly see from his photos he does things far beyond what most of us would do. I guess my point is that if you are just going to ride your bike then you don't need to do anything but bolt it on and go but if you are going to haul an extra 500 pounds around then you might want to invest in a truck.
 
Like I said my bike is going to be strictly a street commuter bike. I won't be driving aggressively up and down offroad slopes and I sure as hell won't be pulling a trailer since motor bikers are completely illegal in NY and having a trailer would just be asking to get pulled over and get my bike impounded or worse. Do I need the HD shift kit or can I get away with using the standard shift kit or the shift kit from thatsdax.com
 
Well it depends on your engine. We only recommend using the standard shift kit on 49 cc engines. If your engine is the larger 67 cc engines then you should use the HD kit. Don't know why you would want to buy a cheap Chinese copy of our kit instead of buying the real one.
 
Honestly I didn't know if your kit was the original or not, all these motorized bike parts are cloned and sold by a hundred companies so it's hard to tell and keep track. I guess I'll go with the HD kit if I decide to keep the bike. I might end up selling it as is for $300-400 and getting a higher quality engine to put on one of my other frames.
 
I guess I'll go with the HD kit if I decide to keep the bike. I might end up selling it as is for $300-400 and getting a higher quality engine to put on one of my other frames.

That's a very smart and sensible idea.
It's only when you get to hold the White Industries Heavy Duty Freewheel bearing, that you'll instantly see the quality built into the product.
The White Industries HD freewheel bearing holds a much tighter mechanical tolerance than the standard duty freewheel bearing and if you ever get to see one next to the other it will become immediately apparent that the standard duty freewheel bearing is less than a second rate option.
 
It's interesting when people come to us AFTER they buy the cheap copy kit. Pretty much never get them going and then need to start replacing parts. We try to tell people ours is the original, and here and the other forum folks know, but these forums are not the entire MB world.
 
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