atombikes' 2007 Whizzer NE5

[atombikes]

Regarding the carb restrictor plate which I have read you must open up; here are pics of mine. Frankly, it seems about as large as the mouth on the carb so I'm not sure opening it up would do much??? I assume I am looking at the restrictor plate.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Atombikes,


You have a bunch of issues with the intake setup on your NE motor. First & foremost the plastic spacer needs to go, as it often leaks, fractures, and is impossible to line up with port. Because of the intake port design on the NE cylinder, the fuel "boils" inside the carburetor when the motor gets hot. Later NE motors employed an aluminum spacer to help cool down the carburetor, but 99% of the time the hole in the spacer missed the port by at least 1/16" or more. Best to simply drill a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum plate to line up with the port and have it larger than the carburetor mounting flange to "catch" some air as bike is in motion, like an extra cooling fin. Always use the restrictor spacer, as it also helps keep the heat away from the carburetor. The hole in the restrictor is 9.5 MM, however yours appears to have been enlarged to match the port.

Bad news is: 99.9% of motors with the plastic intake spacer also have the softened lifters [you will need to replace with mushroom lifters ASAP].


Have fun,

 

[atombikes]

Update

Small update. I decided I wanted to get rid of the wide Whizzer handlebars and tall stem. My opinion, they make the bike look dorky.

So, the quill Whizzer uses is 21.1mm (typically old american bike/BMX size). NOT the more typical 22.2mm size. It's a little confusing because the Whizzer quill actually has a machined step in it that reduces down to 21.1, and this step limits how far you can insert the quill. Anyway, I ended up buying a "Black Ops" 21.1mm quill that has a 4 bolt cap. It's chromed and stocky looking, so I think it fits the style I'm after.

Bad news, this quill uses a 7/8" handlebar (not typical 25.4/1"), so I had to look for cruiser handlebars that use this smaller clamp area size. I found a place called Cross Lake Sales that had a set of handlebars for $7 or so (sold out now)...

Here's the result. It lowers the bars, and they're MUCH narrower (which is good because I can now walk the bike thru a doorway- not possible with the wide Whizzer bars).

Also, I added a layback seatpost from forum member inked1974 (Chad). Awesome American made quality at an excellent price!

Finally, I pulled the turn signals off. They are kinda poor quality, and I noticed that the left rear was cracked and had been repaired by the previous owner. I'm thinking I will try to build my own set of turn signal lights that are lower profile. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

Now my next question- how do I shorten these Whizzer cables??? It seems like they're all custom terminated; not like regular bicycle cables at all. How do you guys do it?

 

[Quenton Guenther]

I used the HD signal light pods in place of the earlier Whizzer units on my 1999.

Don't have any suggestions for the cables.

Have fun,

 

[atombikes]

I used the HD signal light pods in place of the earlier Whizzer units on my 1999.

Don't have any suggestions for the cables.

Have fun,

Wow, these do pretty much look like the Whizzer ones, but these are $14 for a set of 4 direct from China (ebay).

 

[atombikes]

So I bought and installed the carb spacer kit for the NE5 engine. When I got the Whizzer, I thought the carb looked a little too close to the frame, and I *thought* that the spacer would actually provide a little more clearance, along with it's other benefits.

Attached are pics. You can see a little rust spot on the frame where the cable nipple used to be rubbing the frame; but you can also clearly see that the lid on top the carb is touching the frame. Not shown is the cable getting bent over against the bottom of the tank.

Anyone else have this issue, and if so, how to fix? I can't really lower the engine because the rear mount is fixed. So I think I can only rotate the frame. And I think rotating the engine down will make matters worse?

 

[jbcruisin]

Looks like you could move your engine back a little & as it goes back, it goes down. But then you'd have to re adjust your belts.

 

[atombikes]

Looks like you could move your engine back a little & as it goes back, it goes down. But then you'd have to re adjust your belts.

Thanks JB. i see what you mean re: the sliding adjustment shown in the pic under the carb.

So how does adjustment work; shouldn't the spring that tensions the autoclutch take up the belt slack on both belts as I lower the engine?

 

[jbcruisin]

Thanks JB. i see what you mean re: the sliding adjustment shown in the pic under the carb.

So how does adjustment work; shouldn't the spring that tensions the autoclutch take up the belt slack on both belts as I lower the engine?

The spring should help with that.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Move motor to allow carburetor to clear the frame.

You should be able to easily move the motor and maintain correct belt tension.

I would suggest you replace the VERY low quality front belt as it isn't the correct type for a Whizzer. Use an AX27 belt as it has notches to allow it to travel around small pulleys without over heating and glazing [as does the cheap FHP 4L290 belt].

Have fun,