I have just completed fitting the engine onto the bike and I followed the instruction every step. So I tried to move the bike froward with the clutch engaged and the back wheel wouldn't move at all. Please help, any suggestions ????!
Back wheel doesn't rotate after engine installation.
- Thread starter Marko
- Start date
HeadSmess
Well-Known Member
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usually, if its a brand new engine, and the clutch lever is obviously doing something when pulled in, but the thing is staying engaged... just ride it.
you could take the cover off (the one with 5 bolts) and check that its working. a plate moves. its fairly easy to figure out. it may just be over tightened and need adjustment.
but, basically, they get stored in a box. sent over from wherever. left in the box for countless months or years. the clutch pads are rubber. the clutch plates are steel. the rubber pads have a habit of sticking to the plates, and they free up on the first ride.
try removing spark plug. the engine should turn fairly easily without it. therefore the wheel should too. if not...there IS something wrong!
you could take the cover off (the one with 5 bolts) and check that its working. a plate moves. its fairly easy to figure out. it may just be over tightened and need adjustment.
but, basically, they get stored in a box. sent over from wherever. left in the box for countless months or years. the clutch pads are rubber. the clutch plates are steel. the rubber pads have a habit of sticking to the plates, and they free up on the first ride.
try removing spark plug. the engine should turn fairly easily without it. therefore the wheel should too. if not...there IS something wrong!
snoopdog
New Member
loosen the clutch lock nut 2-3 notches anti clockwise. this will make the clutch slip a little. after u ride it a few tanks and the pads are slightly worn and u can tighten it again and adjust it to the proper setting.
Wolfshoes
Member
A Grubee 66 kit purchased this spring was shipped with the wider 3/16” 415 chain and wider drive sprocket than the previous 2011 EPA batch. The tolerances against a inside cover edge did not allow for the wider chain. When the cover is tightened the chain is pinched to the point no movement is possible. The inside cover edge needed to be filed to allow the chain to move. By now you probably discovered a problem most likely affecting all the kits shipped. If loosening the cover screws allows the back wheel to turn, file the cover to allow clearance. An earlier build with the original 1/8” 410 chain works fine. In my opinion, the wider chain was not needed.
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
We just cut the whole front lip of the rear left cover plate off.
snoopdog
New Member
yes the wider chain is not needed. the one shipped with the kit is very strong. i push hard on the bike and with load of 2 people and its never failed me even once for 5 years. The tensioner on the other hand is another story (bound to fail).
