Belt drive & your opinion

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Pad, Sep 23, 2008.

  1. Pad

    Pad New Member

    Nothing jumped out at me during a search, sorry new user.
    Not a big (or little) chain fan, what about using a timing belt from a car. About an 1" wide with 'teeth' then use the sprockets(from car motor) as a drive connection from motor to the wheel.
    They must make various sizes for different makes and they even make alloy ones.
    I havent got a bike built yet so spacing and all that could be worked out still. Just checking options before I start.
    Looking to do a frame mount motor (elec.) that would drive a rear wheel, designated for elec. drive only.
    Any of that make sense?
    Thanks for your insight.

  2. s_beaudry

    s_beaudry Member

    First search GEBE belt drive setups here on this forum, tons of info on this...

    Good idea, but I think you will run into a gear reduction issue running with two almost same sized sprockets or gears....

    If you see the GEBE setup here, the drive ring is ~144 teeth and 17" round and the sprocket is 11 teeth or so.

    More members will chime in I am sure!
  3. Pad

    Pad New Member

    Good point, forgot that one rev. on the motor also equals one rev. on valve train, thus no reduction.
    Thx for the gebe direction too, if they can successfully use a belt, well good enough for me.
    I think I will steer clear of the pully mounted to the spoke design though.
    Spose they do this because the upper cog is soo small that they have to make up for it somehow.
    Think I'll have to stop buy 'axe-man' and see what they have got. They've always got the coolest most random stuff.

    Thanks again
  4. s_beaudry

    s_beaudry Member

    Out of curiousity... what is "axe man"?
  5. Pad

    Pad New Member

    Its like a second hand store, but with new items direct from the manufacturer, overstock, overproduction, or outdated stock items. Alot of weird motor, gear drive stuff, all with funny sarcastic comment on how to use the ****. and cheap!
    Not sure if its a twin cities MN only type of store, they have several in town.
    What state or country are you in? Maybe they have something similar.
    I wonder if the have a website? I'll look.
  6. Pad

    Pad New Member

    Found their site...
    Ax-Man Surplus Stores
    One of the photos shows an overstock of baby heads, ewww make your own baby...creepy.
    They dont show too much of the elec./machined ect. stuff but they do have isles of it, fun place to kill time with the kids, making their own erector set, with baby heads!
  7. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    Belt drive Project

    Here is a link to my project that is using parts similar to what you described.

    When it comes to procuring parts for drivetrains using Metric Timing Belts Pfeifer Industries is hard to beat.

    The information above about the number of teeth on the GEBE driven sheave is misleading. 144 may be the actual number of teeth on the sheave but it does not take into account the areas of the sheave where there are no teeth. For purposes of figureing out actual reduction ratios you need to use 267t this number takes into account the actual diameter of the sheave.

    Last edited: Sep 23, 2008
  8. Pad

    Pad New Member

    Huge thx Scully! Those photos are very helpful and the link to the manufacture.
    Exactly what I needed to see, lightweight and teeth.
    Ever feel like the belt tries to slid off the side of the pully/cog?

    Thanks again!
  9. stude13

    stude13 Active Member

    the whizzers have been very successful with a belt drive.
  10. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    Over the past year that I have been reasearching and buying the various parts for my project almost all for the smaller drivers I''ve seen have built in skirts/stops on the edges of the pulleys. Most of the larger size driven pulleys do not have skirts, but they are usually available as as add-on extras at an additional cost. If you spend some time reading thru the tech information at the Pfeifer Industries site you will note that they recommend that the driven pully and drivers be 4mm wider than the belt used. This allows for a certian amount of float for the belt, but alignment is very important to keep this float to a minimum. Belts come in a variety of widths and lengths as well as various pitches and tooth profiles. The GEBE system is speced as 5mm HTD 9mm width Length ? I'm not sure. The drivetrain for my project is also 5mm HTD but the width is 25mm. The Go-Kart Industry uses 8mm HTD with belts 25mm to 35mm wide. The 8mm pitch is better for the higher HorsePower of the motors used in go-karts. The Belt used by GEBE is a propiertary belt that is kevlar reinforced and only available thru GEBE, and only available in one length and width. Since you mention that you are planning to use an electric motor I don't have any experience using this type of motor or what amount of total reduction you will need to make it work the way you want. But the guys at Pfeifer Industries have alot of experience with all things Metric Timing BElt and don't mind sharing. The people to contact there are either Jim or Brian. Describe to them what you are trying to put together and I'm sure they will have alot of relavant information to pass on to you about what products they have that will get you where you want to be.

    Last edited: Sep 24, 2008
  11. Drunkskunk

    Drunkskunk Member

    I have a moped... Its a 100 pound, 2 passanger moped with an over powered motor, and all it uses is an automotive V belt. one of those thin fan belts. those things are rated for 10 horsepower or more, so a 2-4 horsepower 70cc bike motor isn't even working them hard. Those kevlar timing belts are nice i'm sure, but overkill.