Best 49cc engine to buy and from who, Plz

[gator joe]

you have the right idea if I were you as far as cost effective and to build yourself a badass bike go with the 66 flying horse got it all out put good nuts and bolts in it Loctite what needs it definitely get locking nuts for head bolts stay on top of it used pieces of inner tube cut down the middle put about 10 of them in between the motor and the frame hog down use plenty of Loctite on that only a couple dabs on the other stuff and when I say Loctite I mean blue also when you order the motor go ahead and spring for the expansion chamber yeah it's a little bit louder but man will it make a difference in that motor will breathe these motors are all about air fuel mixture if it's correct it won't four stroke if it does its very rare and only when its coldI went ahead and switch to a 40 tooth sprocket and I'm extremely happy with it basically seems I have the same torque off the line now I'm wishing I would have bought a 36 but I was scared that that would cut my acceleration but I guess I have my expansion chamber tune so perfectly that it runs great make sure you also invest in the torque wrench always tork them down to 10 or 12 pounds pounds that is in A x pattern you should do just fine as far as the legal standpoint I'm not sure where these things are legal I just treat it like a bicycle as far as staying on the right side of the road stay off the sidewalks of course that's just asking for a problem is definitely in legal when you see a cop pretend to pedal in my case I have to engage the clutch and shut off the motor because my exhaust is a little loud but they got their windows up half the time anyway I haven't had any problems knock on wood do you have any other questions I'll be happy to help I have built quite a few of these and has helped friends troubleshoot about 20 others never met a mother yet I could fix as long as you have fuel spark and compression these babies will run that's the beauty of a good old two stroke motor my opinion I'll take a two stroke over a four stroke any day more power and big deal mix a little oil oh by the way follow the correct ratio when breaking in that is critical

 

[KCvale]

Exteremely helpful on the YD explanation.
I will be going with a 66cc per suggestions and I do live in a town with a few hills. Though not a big guy ( 5'8" / 165) just getting around more easily versus real speed is my goal.

I do have the moeny to buy a better engine- that was my goal was to avoid the probelematic engines and buy the better version!! I am getting closer to my goal with each reply.

You'll be fine with a stock 66cc direct drive with your stature MoGo, if you want to over 30MPH tuck down and in as wind resistance and low tire pressure is the main drag over that speed.

Keep in mind without some low end mods, with the stock kits 42T rear sprocket ~15MPH is the slowest you can go without stalling.
You can use a 48T and get more torque and lower speeds at the sacrifice of top speed.
And when you get to hills you can always pedal along to help keep the bike above that speed.
Your .2HP actually can help depending on your bikes pedal gears.

You do want to get a ft/# torque wrench for the head, and a set of metric combo wrenches and sockets from 7-18mm.
Much of these builds can be done with 5 box end wrenches.

When you decide on the bike you will use post a couple of pics.
Some are friendly to mount an engine and drive train in, some not so friendly ;-}

 

[mogogear]

KC- thanks a million for the clear advice. Here is what I bought. My front tube is 1.75" o.d. and by seat post down tube is 1.25" o.d. If it is not a good candidate for donor bike, then I will just sell it back on to CL and buy another.

 

[mogogear]

p.s. Have a full shop, albeit small. A former GM mechanic, and long time live-steam (rc boats) builder. Unimat 3 lathe and mill, drill press, band and disk sanders , scroll saw etc.

Time and a machinist patience are what I lack mostly!!

 

[KCvale]

That is an un-friendly bike to motorize MoGo.
The middle bar is going to be in the way, and a springer front fork like that is more for decoration than function.

What you want is something that has front and rear brakes, and pedal gears are nice, just don't get a bike with internal gears, the hubs are too fat to get the direct drive sprocket on it.

I like the $240 Micargi Pantera 7S for a steel beach cruiser that plays nice.

The direct drive sprocket darn near centers itself on the 7-speed hub, and it has pretty good front and rear V-brakes.
It has 1.5" downtube so you'll need a Small universal front mount that size and a dual pull brake lever from SickBikeParts.com
Grab a NGK BPR7HIX Iridium plug while you are there, it's a cheap little performance boost ;-}

 

[mogogear]

Thanks KC. I grabbed the bike for looks. And bought it right off CL. So I will just sell it and move along. Genuinely appreciate the input. I see many but the inexpensive Cranbrook but will see what I come up with. Portland has about 2,700 bikes on CL on any given day. So lots of options.

There is an nice 2007 Schwinn Aero in CL right now that sure looks tempting but I will get a cruiser with brakes and perhaps front forks with shocks( if you think that is a good way to go?). They don't look as " pure" aesthetically but may be much more comfortable.

Thank you very much for the insights.

 

[mogogear]

KC

I found this one for $80- it looks like it fits your suggestions. V brakes and a 7 speed twist grip I can move to the left side of the handle bar. More room for the engine too.

Just a cheap Schwinn, but what the heck...



Thanks again for the input- trying to avoid the NOOB mismatch frame / engine mistakes etc. I will make enough later on so I can stay busy dont cha know

 

[KCvale]

That should work just fine, you could even fit a 4-stroke in that frame.

 

[mogogear]

KC

Will the kit gas tank straddle the top tube on a Fito Modena...like this one? I saw your build - I was unsure if the Sport and GT model had the same width top tube...



P.S. I would most likely use a Modena with the 7 speed and front and rear V brakes-- or just go with the more typical Micargi / Cranbrook top frame

 

[KCvale]

Yes, that will work but you'll need to use extenders.
It's just like a really fat nut.
I used them on this Slugo.

Another option on a steel frame bike that looks better but is not as sturdy is putting the bottom tank bracket on the top bar, then drilling, tapping and bolt it on top.
Drop the tank studs through, bolt it on

Looks better but not as strong without some JB weld between the brackets and frame, and then still not as strong as the other way.
.