Best Motor For Long Distance Trip?

Discussion in 'Travelling, Commuting & Safety' started by LandSFan, Jul 30, 2009.

  1. LandSFan

    LandSFan New Member

    The question's in the title. What do you guys think. What has the endurance and power for several thousand miles? Consider money to be no object with regards to this question.

  2. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Something with a B, an M and a W in the name. :D
    Just kidding, you're asking about MBs I know.

    As to endurance, the Japanese made engines IE Robin/Subaru, Honda, Mitsubishi, Tanaka all have good reps for reliability and endurance. There are others, Morini, Whizzer, the Huash line like those used by EZM.
    I have some Robin engines and heard said are worthy of between 600 and 1000 hours of use, depending on who you listen to. 600 hours X avg. speed 20mph = a lot of miles.

    The question on power is relative with many variables. What gets termed "power" is a product of engine output and gearing with drive train considerations for specific applications. Most motorized bike engines are small because of weight issues, under 100ccs for the most part with the majority probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 50ccs.

    If money is no object you could have a fresh engine cached along the way somewhere waiting, coupla' wrenches and a half hour. :idea:
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2009
  3. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    If I was going to head out tomorrow, I'd use the Tanaka 33.

    Pending a couple of guy's experimentation's going on right now, waiting for the phone call with details, it might be the Robin Subaru 35 with the new air cooled clutch. That is, if they can get it up in the 32-35 mph range.
  4. augidog

    augidog Banned

    beach cruzin's hp-carb tanaka pf40 is pushing 10k, maybe it's past that...14T...with no signs of giving in any time soon. he's been doing 20-30 miles a day, with some runs exceeding 130miles. an easy 32mph cruise, he's hit 38mph in the cold sea air.

    keve's hp-carb tanaka pf33, small rider on a light bike, has about 2k and is the fastest thing up here, 14T, pushing 40mph with a tailwind. obviously, 30mph cruises are boring for him.

    my "new" tanaka pf40 (slightly over 1k) with HP carby/ADA-juicebox & the vented clutch is pulling the heavy s-2 up to 36mph with the 13T @ about a mile/ounce. it runs 30-33mph without breathing hard at all...i'm looking forward to many thousands of trouble free miles.

    i've observed a few robin-subaru eho35's in action, and if they were my cuppa tea i would not hesitate to strap one on & hit the road.
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2009
  5. moondog

    moondog Member

    Yes, the Tanaka Pure Fire 40.0 cc 2.2 hp and others listed above are industrial high quality engines. The Tanaka comes with a two-year commercial use warranty.

    Sounds like alot of 2 stroke fans on this site. Me too. I wanna hear that piston firing every stroke !

    I have a light weight French road bike with a Mitsubishi TL 23cc Staton friction drive.

    The kit is so light , 14LBs, that I ride for miles sometimes without running the engine.

    I almost don't need it on the flats and sure don't need it going down hill.

    It sure is nice on slighty uphill rides which is about all the hills are where I live.

    So I think a real lightweight simple friction drive setup may not get you there as fast but if you run out of gas it's easy to pedal.

    I have a couple of Mitsubishi TLE 33cc engines too. Sometimes I think they will out live me. Awesome motors !

    I want to take one apart and see the insides but I have never seen one that doesn't run.

    Some of the Mitsubishi TLE motors are yellow and black and say John Deere on them. Mitsubishi made them for John Deere.
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2009
  6. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I vote for Mitsubishi TLE43 engines.

    On my twin-engined bike I can run WOT for at least 10 miles at 35mph with headwind, lean-white conditions and 9,000rpm.
  7. LandSFan

    LandSFan New Member

    i've got it narrowed down to a tanaka 40cc or a mitsubishi tle43. at this point, whatever is the cheapest i think i'll go with.
  8. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    You've got dependability, now go for gas mileage.
  9. augidog

    augidog Banned

    yup, window-shopping is a good way to go, to an extent...a PF40 or a TLE43 is a good, drive-train & the actual chassis itself need looking at. yourself a favor: read read read! you still have a ton of work to do, and asking the age-old "what's the best?" will only get you so far. you have to know what you're buying, you shouldn't just ask us to "vote" for your parts. you say you wanna travel, so that's how i'm talkin' at ya.

    for example, my engine & gearing decisions cost me mileage but gained me huge advantage in chassis strength & load capacity.

    check out the review areas, read "the garage" & learn what's already been learned, about the pluses & minuses of different drive components, and about building a bicycle that's gonna rival a moped or light motorcycle in comfort, stability, and most importantly, safety.

    and, buddy...i'll mention once & hope you heed well..."whichever's cheaper" is NOT a good policy when you start building the drive-train and chassis.

    btw-i swear by golden eagle, as people and as product you can't get better than gebe. that's only my opinion, there are many here...have fun.
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2009
  10. LandSFan

    LandSFan New Member

    yeah, you're right. not a good motto to live by. i'm still going to end up spending at least 500 buying a motor though. i've been to the golden eagle website and i really like what i see. i've talked to some people over the phone, read reviews, watched videos, etc. the tanaka 40 cc seems awesome. the thing is, i have to buy two of everything. it's me and my boyfriend building these bikes and making this journey.

    what about the bikes themselves? what do you guys suggest? not to simply ask you to "vote", i just want some insight from people who have done what i am trying to do. it's part of research, ya know?
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2009
  11. augidog

    augidog Banned

    "engine" "drive-train" "bicycle" took some of us 4 years to learn all this, but now you have the advantage of reading all about it...

    consider this: far as know, there isn't a stock bicycle out there that will take a lickin' and keep on tickin' this motorsport you literally can go find a frame you like, old or new, then make sure it's strong enuff & will accept your drive choice...and then shop wheels/brakes, lighting, much of this is based on your particular needs and's always easier (for me) to answer questions like this when it's about a specific item instead of multiple-choice. go find that frame or other part, and i will happily give you my thoughts on it's merits or flaws, but only if i have direct experience with it. never you fear, will get plenty of personal input from the group as your research advances.
  12. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    No straight handlebars, no ribbed grips (use gel or foam), biggest pedals you can find, wide saddle, shock absorber seat post.

    The $325-350-Sun's I use, (with the half fenders), are about the cheapest ways to get the most features. They are 7 speeds, which is good enough for loaded down touring.

    Just one more thing on your chosen engine size. You should try to find a way to bring down/re-direct the exhaust noise, reduce the decibels, before hitting the road.

    It might seem okay for 100 mile loops, but you'll at least need foam earplugs to keep up a month long adventure.
  13. LandSFan

    LandSFan New Member

    Definately. I don't want to go deaf yet.
  14. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    I'd take my HT time with a sbp shifter kit across country if I had the time or inclination. Trouble is finding a HT that doesn't vibrate much. I'm fortunuate that 2 of my 3 current rides are very smooth and don't make my hands no numb.
  15. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    Staton drives are on the heavy side, but, they're bullet-proof, too.
  16. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    The old saying, " you get what you pay for, " is entirely true with my experience. Buying a $125 engine kit & putting it on a $60 WallyWorld bike isn't going to cut it for reliability, & long rides. You will eventually be buying 3 bikes & 3 motors ! MY opinion !
    If you spend $500 for a kit, get a good quality bike to put it on.
  17. augidog

    augidog Banned

    how goes your research?

    any progress or updates here?
  18. robin bird

    robin bird Member

    What did you say?? ive been running my 5.8 morini tuned to 6.3 i beleive and noiseee!!
  19. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    and what pray tell puts the morini over 6HP ?

    noiseee ! compared to what ?

    i've been running my GP460 for a couple seasons on an exspansion chamber and or the stock muffler and no-one even seems to see or hear me, i don't mind the sound at all.

  20. robin bird

    robin bird Member

    I beleive the expansion chamber puts it over 6 hp--will check with Dean--maybe my hearing is more sesitive--noiser than my happy time.