Best way to secure a gas tank to bike?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by awc360, May 5, 2010.

  1. awc360

    awc360 New Member

    My tank slides around a bit when I get to higher speeds or when the engine makes the bike rattle a bit. Tried to tighten some bolts more, but still slid up and down. Then I drilled holes in the middle of the clamp the tanks came with on the bottom, and put screws into the bike from there to prevent movement. The tank still rattles a bit... Is there a surefire way to secure the tank so It doesnt rattle much?

  2. beach cruzin

    beach cruzin Guest

    i wud simply try cuting an old peice bicycle innertube then place it inbetween the tank and top tube even dubble it up if needed you shud be able to snug it up and it prevents the metals from rubing i have wore a hole in the tank in the past...thats fun
  3. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I glue a tarp strap to the bottom of my tanks. Let dry and install. You see them all over the road as they break off truck tarps, or the wind causes them to come loose.
  4. Wrap frame with something like a roll of cork gasket material and electric tape it to the frame bar, then place tank over that.
    Add a second nut on each stud,called double nutting.
  5. Dilly Bar Rob

    Dilly Bar Rob Member

    Put some "urethane windshield adhesive" (black nasty sticky stuff) on the tube before you put the tank on there. Once it sets (a day or so) the tank will never move again.
  6. wildemere

    wildemere Member

    Double sided tape works, as long as its a good quality.

    I've used closed cell foam, the white packing material as well.
  7. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    With that you don't even have to have the studs on the tank. Holds great messy if gotten on hands or clothes.
  8. Dilly Bar Rob

    Dilly Bar Rob Member

    Al's not kidding with that, the stuff can be a "permanent" mounting solution for almost anything, We always have a tube of it handy at the shop. It's great to secure stuff on the MB that you don't want to move/twist on the bike tubes (ie practically anything that uses a really thin bracket to hold it down).

    Just a quick list of a few things I have used it for on my MB's:

    -Under the gas tank. Like Al says feel free to take off the clamps after it sets.
    -Under the CDI box - these are really hard to mount "securely" as the bracket is really soft, and if you keep tightening you will likely break the plastic tabs on the box. Just hand tighten it with the urethane in there and let it set.
    -Under handlebar grips that otherwise like to pull off.
    -Under the stationary part of the throttle twist grip (part with the kill switch), will really help out the securing "pin" to keep it on the handlebars.
    -On the pesky rag joint - goop up all mating surfaces of the rubber/sprocket/backing plates with it before assembly. This can be messy when assembling, and you better make sure that the sprocket runs true BEFORE the stuff sets. Once set you can consider the sprocket "welded" to the wheel.

    It doesn't seem to mind any chemicals once set (gas, oil, solvent...), and it will bond remarkably well to smooth surfaces as it is meant to bond to glass.

    In my book this is the "holy grail of goop" :devilish:

    Oh yeah, wear surgical gloves and old clothes when applying. It will stay on your hands for weeks and on your clothes forever. While still wet i found that gunwash, brake clean and other harsh stuff will actually clean it up, but once dry your on your own :rolleyes7:
  9. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Dang Rob...I almost spit my drink all over my monitor and keyboard......:bowdown:

    By the way, use it up rather fast...shelf life after opened is shorter then a fly... You catch my drift... Last I heard $10.00 - $12.00 a tube, retail.

    How strong is it...think about this, the windshields in todays cars are a body part just like a fender. The windshield is held in (vs popping out of a rubber gasket) during a rollover, helps keeping the integrity of the body intact. Once dried I hated have to cut it out...I owned a Automotive windshield replacement company in Mississippi before I moved to Alabama 12 years ago. I have used it on countless repairs throughout the years, from waders to boat repairs. I have a pair of waders (duck hunting) that I had to patch, I cut a piece of nylon, coated it with urethane and applied to the inside...ummmm that was over 15 years ago. I can't get it off without destroying the waders. Oh, by the way in the movies when you see someone kick out a windshield, it is a impossible task...10 of the strongest men you could find couldn't do it.

    I myself wouldn't recommend it on the rag joint and associated parts... if you ever needed to replace the sprocket or wheel... like in the movie Taken... Good Luck.
    Last edited: May 19, 2010
  10. wildemere

    wildemere Member

    Race teams like Nascar and other series that still use lug nuts use it (windshield glue) for their wheel nuts, they glue the lug nuts on the wheels with this goop to speed up pit stops.

    It is strong stuff...
  11. billy270

    billy270 Member

    i have never really had this problem think god........all i did is use lock tight.....i love that **** lol
  12. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Cheap, simple, and fills in any gaps in between the tank and frame: hot water pipe insulation. It comes in long sections split down one side and costs very little.
    It also removes easily and will not mess up the finish much.
  13. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I've been in the glass business for a number of years... What are you calling windshield glue..never heard of such a product.
  14. MrShorty

    MrShorty Member

    They use weatherstrip adhesive. Here's a video of how it's done.