bike having trouble up 20 degree incline

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by blckwlfny1, Aug 10, 2010.

  1. blckwlfny1

    blckwlfny1 Member

    This is my first bike so i dont know what to expect:
    I have a worksman newsboy... 42 tooth sprocket... brand new (about 45 min of use on it) "80cc" skyhawk... no tensioner (motor is shimmed) ...i weigh 220#... formagasket around carb/manifold joint.
    When i go up a 20 degree grade the engine would die if i didnt pedal to keep it going. The motor also wont move from a standstill without some serious feathering of clutch and throttle. Also, the motor runs best so far with the choke slightly on (about 1\4 of the way)
    Is this ok, or is something wrong?
    thanks
     

  2. Fulltimer

    Fulltimer Member

    It sounds like your sucking air somewhere around the carb. Snug everything up good an tight and see if that helps. You may need to replace the gaskets with something good instead of the junk that is on it.

    Terry
     
  3. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    You always need to pedal start the bicycle to get it in motion. These engines are an assist device. They just do not have the torque to get you going from a dead stop.
    You will fry the clutch trying to get it to do that.
    As for climbing a 20 degree incline you also will have to pedal. The engine will get stronger as it breaks in though.
     
  4. blckwlfny1

    blckwlfny1 Member

    Where else would the engine be sucking air in from?
     
  5. gothicguy64

    gothicguy64 Member

    i had (have still ) . a rocksolid shaft bike mark 1 , 3 spd shaft pushie
    with rock solid 50 cc hp2 with extras .
    pipe is the long street and i could spin wheel i let throttle go fast .

    i built motor to handle nitro

    i had to pedal to move then i let clutch go an beat buses an a few cars to 55 kph
    i blew the shaft an real wheel

    new bike is a 21 spd stock moutain 20 inch frame
    and i intend to use sbp jack an expansion pipe
    when finaces can afford the cost
    no more single spd for me an i weigh 72 kg ..
    :helmet::helmet:
     
  6. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Where the carburetor attaches to the manifold and where the manifold attaches to the cylinder.

    Let the engine idle and carefully spray the areas one at a time with a spritzer spray bottle and water. If the idle speed increases or decreases, changes in any way when you spray an area you have found the air leak. Sometimes all you can tell is a change in the sound of the exhaust note if it is a tiny leak.
    The water will temporarily seal the leak and that will cause the engine speed to change.

    You can do this with flammable sprays such as carb cleaner, brake cleaner, WD40, ect. They usually give a more distinct change when you spray a leaky spot, making them more user friendly in that respect
    Be careful though, don't set anything on fire, and do not spray into the air cleaner. If it gets sucked into the air cleaner it will also change the speed and exhaust note and give you a false reading.
     
  7. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    i have to disagree on the fact that you always have to peddle to get a mb going.
    I hardly ever peddle either of my bikes, maybe on occasion just to get moving if i'm on a hill when i start out, but most of the time i just use the clutch and take off from a dead stop.
    my engines have plenty of torque to get me and the bikes moving, and climbing hills is no problem with either of my bikes on just the motor by itself.
    one bike has a 49 c.c. 2 stroke, a 41 tooth rear sprocket, 20" wheels with a 21.5 inch tall rear tire.
    the other bike has an 80 c.c. 2 stroke, 41 tooth sprocket 20" rear wheel, with a 24 inch tall tire.

    i only weigh 155 lbs. so maybe that is my advantage, plus both of my bikes are 20" frames (an old schwinn stingray, and a newer schwinn o.c.c. chopper)
     
  8. blckwlfny1

    blckwlfny1 Member

    Ok...
    Tightened the manifold screws and checked for an air leak. Didn't find one. Bike runs like a champ at idle and on level ground. At the Slightest incline it bogs down and throttle makes it worse. I tried feathering throttle but not much difference. 1/4 Choke is not helping either. 1/2 makes it worse.
    Fuel/oil @ 16:1
    If I replace the plug, what size do I get. I don't see how to replce the wires without swapping the whole maagneto. ....any OTHERS suggestions
     
  9. robimagu

    robimagu New Member

    To me it sounds like your float may need to be adjusted. Another thing that can happen (at least to me) is the float "tickler" is stuck in a down position and flooding the carburetor with excess fuel.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  10. blckwlfny1

    blckwlfny1 Member

    Help!

    UPDATE: I. Have a REVERSE throttle....the more fuel I give the motor, the slower it goes. Uphill...downhill :ack2:
    A DAY wasted....I couldn't find a replacement spark plug
    I also Couldn't find a way to replace the wires
    Cleaned an re-gapped the plug I have...no difference
    I have NEVER done anything more than assemble mechanical parts.
    Adjusting the carb is not something I ever thought I would have to do. Nbr do I think I will be successful at it. This STINKS. As it stands now, my new bike...investmenbt of time and money is sitting useless...HELP!
    :ack2:
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  11. Fulltimer

    Fulltimer Member

    Yep, check the float.

    Terry
     
  12. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Do not replace the wires, cut out the factory plug together connectors. Strip about 3/8" insulation off each wire, twist each connection lengthwise together and solder them. Insulate and protect each connection with electrical tape.
    Do not twist the wires off to the side so it looks like a "T". Twist or wrap them around each other so it looks like a "_".
    If you can find heat shrink tubing, it works better and cleaner than electrical tape.
    You need the correct diameter 1/8" heat shrink tubing. Before twisting the connections together, cut 1" pieces of the tubing and slip it onto the wire on one side of the connection, sliding it as far away from the connection as possible. The heat of soldering will shrink the tubing if it is too close to the connection. Twist and solder the connection and let it cool. Slip the heat shrink tubing over the soldered joint, centering the joint in the middle of the tubing. It should overlap the ends of the joint by approximately 3/8" on both ends. Heat the heat shrink tubing by holding a lighter or a match very close to it, not directly on it, moving the heat all around the tubing. It will shrink down tightly around the wire.
     
  13. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Your smaller diameter wheels and tires have alot to do with why you can do that.
    A smaller diameter wheel and tire = more torque to the ground due to mechanical advantage.
     
  14. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    blckwlfny1,
    What position is the needle clip in on your carburetor?
    How is your needle, retaining washer and slide spring assembled?
    Check out AussieSteve's thread on carburetor basics for pictures of correct assembly and tuning tips.
    http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=24867
    Ask any questions you may have on this here thread though, not on his thread. That way the threads stay organized and cleaner.
     
  15. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    yes, i know that, but i am still getting 25-28 mph top speeds, which isn't bad for a bike with 20" wheels.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  16. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    as others have said, you should cut off the push together wire connectors and solder the wires. cover the soldered splices with heat shrink.
    those connectors are junk and they will rob power from your ignition, plus they will vibrate apart over time.
    you do not have to swap out the whole magneto...the wires from the engine to the cdi and kill switch are not connected when you buy an engine kit you have to plug the wires together with the connectors that are on the ends of each wire. do you have anything hooked to the white wire?
     
  17. blckwlfny1

    blckwlfny1 Member

    thanks. :bowdown:
    ill read thread and check out the carb and let y'all know
    ...nope nothing hooked to the white wire although i was eventually thinking of a front and a tail light
    BTW I was originally referring to replacing the spark plug wires...does this "unscrew" like on the HT motors?
     
  18. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Yes, it unscrews from the CDI. Your engine is a "HT" engine.

    HT:
    Happy Times
    An easy to remember reference to label all of the cheap Chinese in frame 2-stroke engine kits, regardless of which manufacturer made it, which vendor sold it, what model it is, or which displacement it is.

    That is my version of a description for "HT".
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2010
  19. gothicguy64

    gothicguy64 Member

    my leads are 9 mm msd
    red it is possible to buy car lead an cut end off an wind into cdi it has a self tapper built to hold high tension lead on cdi


    it unwinds
    anticlockwise is off
    brad
     
  20. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    yes, you can use an automotive spark plug wire.
    I'm using an 8 mm accell superstock wire, with a rubber automotive spark plug boot.
    the stock plastic spark plug wire boot is not very good at all, so i suggest you replace it with a 90 degree, rubber boot.
    yes, you just unscrew the wire from the cdi box, and screw the new one in.
    8 mm is a tight fit, so a 9mm may not fit in the cdi box.
     
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