Bike is nearly perfect NOW....

Discussion in 'Performance Mods' started by Lonewolf, Mar 7, 2009.

  1. Lonewolf

    Lonewolf New Member

    Been playing with different set-ups with chain and tensioner. Used tensioner like it came, that sucked. Put tensioner on pedal chain, that sucked. Made boht chains equally tight, you guessed it. That sucked,too. Me and one of my good buds that I work on the same shift with have been playing mad scientist and I am sad to say that he beat me. My idea works but not as good as his. The best thing about it is that it cost less than $5 and it is the CATS MEOW.
    No more chain slapping, too loose, too tight, binding up, chain pop offs, or whatever it is that can make you kind scared when going 35 down a big hill. All you do is use the stock tensioner bracket only you add one piece of metal about 3-4" X 1"-1.5" on a stud and attach the roller bearing tensioner to that. You hook a spring from top right corner of metal bar to rear upper frame and I swear it rides almost like a Yamaha sccoter only $3000 cheaper. Add a bolt on bottom left of original idler bracket to keep tensioner from goiung too far down and throwing too much slack in chain. When you ride this thing and look down and see the spring and tensioner moving you will then see why the stationary tensioner is such a sucky idea. Puts less strain and drag on engine and takes out 90% of the jerking when going down a hill or coasting. I will try to get some pics out soon but have been too busy today building and riding. I swear if you do this you will be shocked how SMOOOOOOOTH your bike will ride. I am not selling these. I just want everyone who is having a problem to be able to get it fixed. If everyone would post their great accomplishments for all to see pretty soon you will see one of these MB as the pace vehicle for DAYTONA 500.
     

  2. Flapdoodle

    Flapdoodle Member

    Thanks Wolf,
    I think I understand what you did, but can you provide a photo or drawing?
     
  3. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    a picture tells a thousand words

    a picture tells a thousands words

    ride the motor bike thing
     
  4. Lonewolf

    Lonewolf New Member

    here is the pic!
     

    Attached Files:

  5. TINKERER

    TINKERER Member

    Great Idea, Thanks!
     
  6. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Thanks Lonewolf, very do-able project.
     
  7. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    yes -- the old spring loaded tensioner -- looks good
    reminds me of a big one I had on a Yamaha 500 thumper

    ride the motor bike thing
     
  8. -CON-

    -CON- New Member

    Very pro active idea !!!

    Do the motorcycles need that?
     
  9. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    some do -- the idea has been around a very long time
    works nice as seen above with Lonewolf's set up

    ride the motor bike thing
     
  10. Flapdoodle

    Flapdoodle Member

    I am guessing of course, but your method may give the very best possible chain to sprocket break in. The chain is never allowed to ride up the teeth, but never too much tension. I may do mine like that.
     
  11. Lonewolf

    Lonewolf New Member

    Makes all the difference in the world.
     
  12. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    This works, made mine a bit differant and gotta do it again as LoneWolf described.

    But for the swivel action, instead I used flat washer type needle roller bearings. Not cheap but worth the extra smoothness of the swivel action.
    The needle roller bearings come in 3 parts.
    1a. the actual needle roller in flat cage. Measure the same size as the bolt to fit through.
    1b. The hardened bearing metal washers ( 2) that go on either side of the needle roller bearings.

    2. Molly Grease
    3. "End Float Nut" so you tighten the swivel bar just enough so there is no slack in the bearing, then a lock nut and do it up tight on 2 nuts type of thing, leaving the bearing tensioned just right; firm but no slack.

    And you need that bolt to stop the swivel from going too far down.

    It's awsome, a "springy" feel when slowing, all that tension being taken up by the spring. Taking off is another "planet", smooooth.

    Post my version pics soon when it's all finished.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2009
  13. fenderhole

    fenderhole New Member

  14. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Well I finaly got one to work for now.
    It does take a bit of beating about, there are angles to think about, not too much spring tightness and not too much loosnes either.

    One of the problems encountered is when releasing the clutch, the swivel arm can tend to go down too far, lonewolf has added a bolt to stop this.

    I suggest a 2nd spring, just lose enough to not be active during normal riding, but cuts in when releasing the clutch. ( double action spring chain tensioner)

    I did not use the drill hole method, but used the kit's adjustment slot, but has a lock washer to grip.

    The swivel bolt swivels on a flat needle roller bearing set. By "set" it means it comes in 3 pieces, 2 are flat washer like bearing metal that is a must, to work with the needle rollers. This gives the swivel 0 tolerance therefore no side play.
    Lots of molly and it works fine. Tighten it up with lock washer on inside, so the lock washer is between the bearing washer and kits tensioner arm.

    Stage 2 pictures will show another version I'm working on the next build, but I must admit, the one shown here;
    is a good alternative also, but have not tried it yet.

    On early test, when releasing the clutch and as soon as the engine starts, the chain may lock up up against the casing and the small sprocket.
    Idler wheel may have to be implemented at the small sprocket end to stop the chain from jumping to high.

    This is a viable project for anyone to try.
    Well worth the effort, smoother riding and no metalic jolting which may cause stress on bike's frame and engine mounts.
    or buying a ready made spring tensioner is a cool option to.

    Available tools used for now; drill press, angle grinder, bench grinder.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 2, 2009
  15. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    The best chain tensioner is no chain tensioner.....

    Here is a pic of one of my customers bikes.

    Much quieter and smoother with none of the idlers churning.

    To do this you need to use a quality chain that won't "stretch"
    and the strongest chain is a KMC K910 as used in the pic

    Standard 1/2" pitch with only 3/16" between the plates and sexy
    cut off side plates!

    I don't understand you guy's that keep pushing 41 chain. It has 1/4"
    between the plates
    , skinny sideplates and isn't as strong.

    On the Chinese two strokes front sprocket the 41 chain can move so far
    to the right ( engine side) that it rubs the case
     

    Attached Files:

  16. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Forbisher, the chain in the pic is KMC 910.
    It's half a link too long, if I remove 1 link it is too short.
    The supplier say's they cannot supply half a link, nor can they supply a spare master link if the original is lost or damaged.

    For the record; a place that does chains, they wanted AU$100.00 labour plus cost of chain to make one fit right.
    About AU$160.00 - AU$180.00 in total.
     
  17. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    You solve the chain tension problem by moving the motor up or down in the frame.

    Cut the back mounting block down
    make a custom back mounting block
    or use spacers
     
  18. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Not on this particular bike, previous owner's builder had already crucified it by driling a hole in the front down tube.
    Also, the standard chain tensioner is too short in adjustment, meaning if you place the kit's tensioner in line with the rim, the wheel don't reach.
    The tools available are minimal, no milling machines, lathes, all that sort of stuff to make custom as required
    There was some milling done, the C-Clamp had to be milled to fit the seat down tube, cost: $20.00 and had to wait 2 weeks and 3 days.

    Having a go at making spring tensioner is what this thread is about.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2009
  19. Lonewolf

    Lonewolf New Member

    Running the chain with no tensioner works. When you put the rear sprocket on the rim it is impossible to get it completely true. I have a gauge used to put on sprocket that got mine to within 1/16" either way. A 1/16" on one side when rolled around is 1/8" difference on the other. Without a spring tensioner you are constantly loose and tight. To me the tight is worse than the loose. I ran mine awhile with no tensioner but did not like the feel. If yours works thats good. I think the tensioner is the way to go for me.
     
  20. pessen

    pessen New Member

    Quieter Tensioner?

    Has anyone come up with a way to build a tensioner that is quieter? I hate how much noise mine adds.....I attract attention riding under pedal power only simply because the tensioner makes so much noise.
     
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