Bike not running (clutch problem)???

[haoleboy]

Well, here goes.....
I have a Diamondback Beach Cruiser, with a RAW (discontinued) motor. It has been running fine until last week. I have had this motor for a year. The clutch started slipping, and in riding, the gears started to sound like they were not meshing. On the way home from a friends house I made a stop and the clutch froze. I could not engage it at all. I had to push the bike all the way home, and trying to keep the back tire off the ground at the same time. (Had to replace the tire and tube). I finally was able to free the clutch, but not being able to replace the clutch with a new one that I have purchased because I don't have the drive removal tool. It sounds like that gears are not working like they are supposed to. Right now, I can push the bike with the clutch out, and cannot even get the bike started because I don't have any resistance (like a clutch engagement).
Have I broken something inside that I can't see?
Will I have to rebuild the motor?
Do I have to junk this one?

Thank you for your help!
Dave

 

[Al.Fisherman]

Remove the clutch cover plate and inspect the gears.
With the clutch cover off work the clutch handle and watch to see if the pressure plate moves out and back in.
Inspect the bearings in the clutch housing. 57 of them.
Remove chain and spark plug and turn nut on the magneto shaft to ensure the crankshaft will turn.
Depending on what is wrong, we can go from there.

By the way I have gear removal tools that I loan out, just as if you went to Auto Zone or Advance.

 

[haoleboy]

Clutch problem

Thank you very much for your reply.
It looks like I need to run to my hardware store to get the drive sprocket removal tool and pull the clutch. I'll re-post after I make the count and your other recommendations
Thanks again.

 

[haoleboy]

Clutch

Okay Al;
Autozone nor NAPA has the tool. It looks like I can get it at BikeBerry.com, for a little cost. The clutch plate does move in and out, so here I go removing the clutch... I'll get back to after I do the tests you suggested.
Thank you.

 

[Al.Fisherman]

I know that AZ and Advance doesn't have the tool. Yes you can buy one for $3.00 from http://www.gasbike.net/bike-motor-part-screw-tool-2400-prd1.html then add the shipping.

I see a Drive Sprocket Removal Tool ZTEAK_DRIVESPROCKET $3.95 from Bikeberry but can't see the item for sale.(under ALL PRODUCTS)

 

[haoleboy]

Clutch

Hi Al;
The screw tool arrived yesterday, the threads stripped in less than an hour, still have not got the clutch off yet. I am planning to get one from BB and hope that remover is in better shape. It looks like there may be a trick to using this type of tool. After a while with fiddling the clutch and adjustments, I took it out for a ride, and the clutch is still slipping. Got it home and going to do just a little more adjusting. Adjusted the chain, and it locked up tighter than a drum. Slackened the train, and still locked. Took out the spark plug, and it is free, but still not totally free. It still had resistance. I think there is something wrong somewhere........
Thank you for reading this.
Dave

 

[Al.Fisherman]

I posted this somewhere else....

First of when you get the gear puller, make sure the threads are good. You may need to take a small 3 corner file and work on the teeth. Make sure that the tool is bottomed out when threading it on to the gear BEFORE you attempt to remove it. When installing the woodruff key ensure that it fits correctly (in the key way and gear). Then take a drop of super glue and put a drop in the shaft key way, insert key and let dry. This is VERY helpful when replacing the magnet key. More gear pullers will be destroyed because the tool is not seated properly and when removing the gear you strip the threads in the tool rather then the gear as the pulled is softer.

 

[haoleboy]

Clutch problem

Al;
Thank you for your reply.
Yes the tool must be clean and free of debris, and the threads must be sharp. I observe it this way......If I take the tool all the way to the end (bottoming out) and screw in the the center bolt of this [ZTEAK_DRIVESPROCKET] and proceed to draw out the clutch, is it not working against each other? Would I not want to screw in the tool almost to the clutch plate, screw in the bolt, until it stops, back off the tool a little, screw in the bolt, and keep repeating the process until the clutch is removed? Or am I off base?

And while I think of it, when I installed this motor last year, I did not see any clutch actuator ball bearing or bucking bar in the kit. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a steel shaft for the operation of the clutch. My question is, does the RAW motor have such a ball bearing?

Thank you so much for your help.
Dave

 

[Al.Fisherman]

Al;
Thank you for your reply.
Yes the tool must be clean and free of debris, and the threads must be sharp. I observe it this way......If I take the tool all the way to the end (bottoming out) and screw in the the center bolt of this [ZTEAK_DRIVESPROCKET] and proceed to draw out the clutch, is it not working against each other? Would I not want to screw in the tool almost to the clutch plate, screw in the bolt, until it stops, back off the tool a little, screw in the bolt, and keep repeating the process until the clutch is removed? Or am I off base?

This is how I do it. I have never striped any threads. Used the same puller on all (6) engines.
1) ensure that all threads are clean, and sharp. I clean all threads with a small 3 corner file.
2) Pulling the large clutch gear
a) Lube the threads on both the gear and puller. I use cutting oil.
b) Insert the puller as far as you can by hand. Without the center bolt.
c) Jam the two clutch gear with a soft metal. I use a old rod bearing out
of a car.
d) Take a 21mm socket and tighten all the way into the gear. You can look
into the puller to see that the puller is bottomed out.
e) This is where I change up tools, I take a 21mm box wrench and hold
the puller.
f) Now I insert the center bolt and crank it down with a 14mm box wrench,
while holding the 21mm wrench, working the two of then against each
other. This should remove the clutch gear.
3) Removing the small clutch drive gear. I do the same as above buy I use a
open end 21mm wrench that I cut down to make it thinner. There isn't
enough room between the base of the small gear and the nut on the
puller for a standard size wrench. My wrench is slightly thinner in
thickness then the hex on the puller.


And while I think of it, when I installed this motor last year, I did not see any clutch actuator ball bearing or bucking bar in the kit. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a steel shaft for the operation of the clutch. My question is, does the RAW motor have such a ball bearing?

All the HT have a ball (or should have) and the shaft should stick out about 1/4" so if the oreigional stuck out that much there is a ball in there. If you need to see, use a pencil magnet and pull it out.

Thank you so much for your help.
Dave

Others may do it differently, but I've found this the best, and since I haven't stripped threads it speaks for itself. But there are other ways, I'm sure someone will attest.
Hope this answers any questions you had.
Ron

 

[haoleboy]

Clutch problem

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. Very well indeed. I shall follow it to the letter. I have also ordered a new pin and ball bearing, and that should do the job. I really suspect that there is something wrong inside somewhere. Something is locking it I hope to get the parts by the end of the week. I ordered them yesterday, called BB this morning to add the two items, and it out for shipping already........Can't beat that for service.

Thank you again, Al.

Dave