Bikemotorparts 1.50" rubber drive roller

[cpuaid]

ouch!!! that is some major excessive wearing down of the rubber roller! daily hard commuting has also taken it's toll on my GEBE system so i'm thinking about going to a chain drive myself. Titan anyone?

 

[andyszyd]

Yea, if you want to go coast to coast, or even around the world, the only combo to use is probably chain drive powered by one of the following:

Honda GX50
Mitsu TLE 43, Mitsu 47 ( 47 not available in US yet)
Tanaka 40

Titan? That would be my last choice for such a demanding task since the difference between Honda 50 and Titan is only about 100 bucks.

 

[happycheapskate]

Did their warranty cover the wasted roller?

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Did their warranty cover the wasted roller?

Never bothered to ask.

 

[happycheapskate]

I just got an email reply from BMP :

Thank you for your interest in our kit. At your weight you can use even a small engine like the GX35. The HF is excellent but for the same price you can get the GX35. You would be best off with the 1.25" roller, it has plenty of speed. The 1.5" urethane roller is not something we manufacture, we basically buy it at cost so that is why we don't include it in our packages. Also it is not that popular, the steel works better.

Thanks again,

James Brisciana
Website: www.bikemotorparts.com
Email: info@bikemotorparts.com
Tel: 518-772-4592

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

The BMP 1.25" roller works well enough, although its friction surface is not as aggressive as Staton's. I imagine it is also not something they manufacture. More than likely, it is a component of conveyor belt design, but works okay for friction driven MB's.

Staton friction spindle surface is very aggressive and firmly grips tire tread. I was pleasantly surprised when I was able to incorporate Staton rollers in the BMP friction housings. All it took was removing the BMP assembled driveshaft and 1/2" ID bearings and replacing them with Staton assembly, including the 5/8" ID bearings. Since there is no outboard collar to retain the bearing, you would have to fab a simple bearing retainer. Either that, or install both bearings with the circlips on the inside of the BMP friction housing.

 

[happycheapskate]

I think the "knurled" surface is not the best pattern for traction. It is probably a compromise in manufacturing costs and tire wear.

I wonder why there aren't any rollers with a smoothed "cog" type surface and hard rubber tires that match, sort of like lawn mower wheels with the toothed cogs that turn them on cheap self-drive TEcumseh mowers.

 

[happycheapskate]

Has anybody tried these tires for a friction drive? I have used them happily as pedal bike tires for 1 year, and on a HT bike for 1/2 year

http://www.nashbar.com/images/nashbar/products/medium/NB-EVTW-NCL-ANGLE.jpg $10 to $15[/url]

[lou: edited to upload image as an attachment]

 

[darwin]

Happy those kinds of treads will wear quickly with a friction drive because of lack of surface area in contact with the roller, especially with a steel knarled roller. When I put my bmp kit together with a new mountain bike I left the original tire on it and within 25 miles you could see alot of wear on the tire. When replaced by a semislick after 500 miles theres little noticeable wear. With the semi slick you get better traction too with the roller against the tire. http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1388

 

[darwin]

On my dimesion edge setup I have a choice of using 4 different urethane rollers and you can change them out in 3 minutes even on the road. After 2 years im still waiting for the 1- 1/4 roller to wear out. Thats the roller I use 99% of the time because of speed and torgue it offers. Ive never even used the 1-3/4 roller because whatever speed it will go is too fast for me. The 1-1/2 roller is fast enough but it cuts way down on the hill climbing power and I live on a lil mountain. These rollers last forever though and have minimum wear on tires.