Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by 5-7HEAVEN, Apr 2, 2009.

  1. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

  2. tinker4

    tinker4 Member


    I bought one of these kits they work great!:grin5:
  3. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    I've tried them, they're ok.

    I liked it better when they were using extruded aluminum channel instead of the bent sheet steel.

    Staton is better
  4. TWalker

    TWalker Guest

    I would like to get one because they have the freewheeling rollers and urethane rollers.
  5. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Right, but just to be clear they use one roller with a one-way bearing which is far from freewheeling in the sense of a rear hub freewheel or freehub. The down pressure is still felt as drag on the tire. The urethane roller is a fixed type also.

    The only way to get true freewheel in a friction drive is to relieve the roller from the tire.
  6. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Replacing a Staton friction roller is labor-intensive, especially the 1.375" and 1.5" rollers. The spindles are larger than the 1.375" bearing holes. The bearings must be pressed off the roller while still in the housing. If not there's no way to remove the spindle. Ya just can't get to the bearings to remove them.

    It costs me over $100 and three days to replace a Staton roller. UPS shipping also kills me.

    I'm considering this kit or Dimension Edge for my next project, mainly for ease of changing spindles. 5+hp, 1.25" friction roller, 40mph at 12,155rpm.
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 3, 2009
  7. TWalker

    TWalker Guest

    Of course but the roller is no longer turning the engine and who else does that but DE? At a higher price than GEBE at that. Very few are willing to go with DE at 600-700 bucks a pop for friction.

    BMP does urethane or a freewheel roller for a tiny fraction the price of the next competitor.

    Looks good to me, especially if someone already has an engine.
  8. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    :idea:It IS possible to create and build such a lever for less than $20.

    This lever would engage and disengage the friction roller. It would fit this kit or Staton's.
  9. TWalker

    TWalker Guest

    Theres a thread here with a design for it. Another design includes two drive rollers with space in between the rollers for neutral. The design requires (i think) a top center mount engine, which solves my problem with friction drives, that big heavy thing hanging way off the side is ungodly looking and a stress on the bike frame.

    I mention this because thats my next project and but hey if anyone wants to get a jump start on me ....feel welcome.
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 4, 2009
  10. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    If you do happen to fabricate it, please post pictures.

    I've seen the design but no one has created one yet. It's not something simple and cheap to put together without skills and special tools.
  11. Porkchop

    Porkchop Member

    I'm thinking of using one of these friction mounts from bikemotorparts. I don't to much like the looks of the side mounting engine either, but the kit does look simple and fairly trouble free. That along with the fact that after finding out about these things, I just happened to have a new engine that will work. I did not see anyting on the site about a polyurethane roller though. Maybe I over looked that part. I didn't think about stress on the frame, but I do wonder about the stress on the engine block it's self where the 4 mounting bolts go into it. I bet the aluminum/alloy block will break from stress/torque before good quality mouting bolts will ! Glad I found this thread. Thanks !
  12. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    100 bucks ??

    I have been pretty happy with the Staton friction setup
    but man oh man
    that don't sound good 5-7 ------------ 100 bucks
    and a pain in the rear
    to change out roller ?

    changing just the bearings would be just as hard -- correct ?

    ride that thing sideways
  13. Porkchop

    Porkchop Member

    Yes, I had read that post about the pain and the $. Does make one consider other options. I don't like having to work on things. It's different when you WANT to work on things. One of my best friends owns a machine shop. I have a Grubee 50cc on the way. I've already given him a heads up on helping ! Hee ! Hee ! He cones in handy at times !
    Gotta go ! Thanks for the reply ! Oh by the way, like I said, I have a Grubee on the way. Haven't made a total desicion yet. I might keep it and do a friction mount friction drive. I'll probably do the Grubee for the time being though !
  14. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    a good friend to have

    a good friend to have
    you with his help can build or repair anything you wish there !!!

    that's a good MB thing
  15. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I Got Me An Idea!!

    To save machinist costs, I drilled two holes straddling the bearing side of the drive assembly. After removing the snapring I use a car gear puller/steering wheel puller and PUSH the bearings/roller/clutch drum out towards the engine side.

    If you have new bearings/roller/spacer/clutchdrum, then you can press/pound/persuade everything back into place.

    HINT: have a machinist machine a slight amount off the friction roller's ends so it'll be a SLIP-FIT, not a press-fit into the bearing.

    If you're gutsy, then machine the Staton housing likewise, so that the bearings are a slip-fit. Then everything pushes out much easier.

    It's impossible for me to remove a 1.5" roller from a friction housing without paying the machinist. When I machine the house and roller, THEN I can remove/reinstall easily at home.

    But it'll still cost $$ for the parts. ANNND the outrageous UPS shipping.
  16. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Well, I ordered the BIKEMOTORPARTS friction parts last night. I already had some of their parts, so I selected ala carte/piece-meal.

    Using it for my GP460 5hp engine and 1.25" roller. Looking for 40mph at 12,500rpm. If the engine has more to offer I'll see if a Staton 1.125" roller/spacer/clutchdrum will fit on this BMP kit. Their 1" roller is too small for my needs I think.

    This kit does have a 1.5" urethane roller as an option.
  17. Porkchop

    Porkchop Member

    I understand exactly what you're saying. All great minds think alike ! I had actually already planned to do that very thing. Labor ? My best friend since we were kids owns a machine shop ! I've already given him a heads up on my project ! Lucky for me, machine cost is not an issue. In fact, I have helped him several times when he's in a crunch with getting parts out on time. So even I know a little about machnie shop work. I sctually find if fun and interesting. Don't know if I'd want to do it for a living or not ! Thanks for the reply !
  18. Porkchop

    Porkchop Member

    Using it for my GP460 5hp engine and 1.25" roller. Looking for 40mph at 12,500rpm.
    I'm not familiar with engine you quoted. What's that ? And it turns over 12k-rpm ?
    Fill me in ! I'm loggong off as soon as I send this. Will be back in about 30-45 minutes ! Thanks !
  19. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    The search button is your friend.

    Just put GP460 into the search engine or look for anything that begins with DetonatorTuning, lol.
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2009
  20. Porkchop

    Porkchop Member

    I'm back. Had to run some errands and took a short through the mountains in my convertible ! I clicked on the link you sent, but I get a message telling me there is no such link !