BMP vs. Staton Friction Drive, almost ready to order

[spoom]

I'm about to add a friction drive setup to my wife's bike so that she can ride with me. I'm running a GEBEified 26" dual suspension mountain bike with a custom 16t gear. Since she'll probably ride less than me, I'm going with the cheaper/simpler friction drive solution for her bike. I typically cruise at no less than 25 - 30 mph, and I would like her to be able to keep up with me. I will probably ride her bike myself from time to time. The bike won't be ridden in wet conditions.

Her bike:
24" Mongoose XR-75 dual suspension mountain bike
24 x 2.35 Kenda Krusader (smooth) tires with thorn-proof tubes
43cc 2-stroke Mitsu-clone, already broken-in, waiting for installation
soon-to-have lights and mirrors

The terrain:
Mostly flat, with an occassional hill and long grade thrown in

Her:
About 110 lbs, physically fit, willing/able to pedal assist

Me:
About 155 lbs, physically fit, willing/able to pedal assist

From searches on this site I am aware that I'll probably want a 1.25" or 1.50" roller for the 43cc engine and the terrain in my area. I've read that it is easier to change out the roller with the BMP kit vs. the Staton kit should I wish to do so. Conversely, the Staton kit offers 5" and 8" extensions for the engine mount (to better accomodate dual-suspension bikes,) whereas the BMP kit does not yet offer these and I would probably have to fabricate them myself. The biggest roller BMP offers is a 1.50" inch rubber roller, which I've read very little about. I know that Staton offers a 1.25" hardened steel roller, but believe that I've read they offer a 1.50" roller as well?

That's where I am. Thanks in advance for your input/comments/suggestions.

 

[Happy Valley]

Either one will do fine. Thing about friction drives is they are silly simple. Folks usually recommend what they own.

A further consideration, and sometimes overlooked with the one vs. the other question, is a third player in FDs namely Dimension Edge. I mention them because of your questions about roller size and swapping them. DE drives come with 6 rollers from 1' to 1 3/4" including a polymer roller and a stone aggregate for wet weather. The DE rollers are the easiest to swap out of the bunch, one wrench and takes a minute. Best of all with the DE is 'shift on the fly', operated from your seat.

I've owned all three and my 2 cents is if I were going that route again I believe that's the way I'd go.

 

[mlcorson]

From what you describe I'd say you'd be in really good shape with the BMP kit 1.25" roller. I'm similar in weight and I ride the with 1.25". I don't think you need to get more complicated. Engaging, disengaging, changing rollers? I've never found the need. You'll get plenty of power out of that motor.
Probably the best value of the 3 vendors mentioned. Your motor should bolt right up. By the way, you can make extensions out of 1/4"x1" aluminum bar that is readily available at the hardware store. Just attach it to the u-bracket with 5/16" bolts and nylock nuts. Drill an extra hole in the bracket and extension in order to get 2 holes on each leg of the bracket.
-Mike

 

[SirJakesus]

I'm running the staton friction 1 3/8 roller with the TLE43 on my NEXT dual suspension. I weigh 200lbs plus a good 55-60 for the bike and she'll pull me up some serious hills without pedaling. When I pedal I can pedal assist to 27mph up all but the steepest grades around here. From what I've read all three are good options for you.
Statons kits are the only ones I've personally owned and I can say from experience his chain and friction setups are **** near indestructible.
Enjoy the ride, it's definitely more fun with a friend.

 

[spoom]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions so far.

I'm similar in weight and I ride the with 1.25".

What's your crusing speed / top speed, Mike? Which engine do you use?

 

[moondog]

I am going to get a BMP kit next.

It weights a pound more but I can weld on it because it is steel.

I want to ad some brackets for a bar that goes around the motor to protect it if it tips over.

That and the price. http://bikemotorparts.com/kit.html

I want one of them to offer a little generator option that fits on the right side for charging a battery for lights.

edit:

Just want to add this.

My Staton friction drive kit is a work of art. One of the finest bicycle motor kits made ever !

If they stopped making them now every one would become a collectors item.

I could never weld or drill or even paint one.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I have BMP and Staton friction kits. Staton has six roller options, BMP has three. BMP rollers easily slip on once the engine is removed. On Staton kits the bearings need to be PRESSED on and off...

UNLESSSSS you take sandpaper and remove the zinc plating off the roller's bearing surface. Then it will be a slip-fit.

Same can be done with the Staton engine housing. Machine off a fraction of a millimeter to convert the housing from press-fit to slip-fit.

Doing these two procedures will save you money because you can change the bearings yourself. The machinist charges me $85 labor only to remove friction roller and bearings from my Staton engine housing.

BMP ships free so that's something else to consider.

 

[mlcorson]

What's your crusing speed / top speed, Mike? Which engine do you use?

My engine is the Robin Subaru EHO35. My top speed is about 25 -27 mph...and I don't really care to go much faster than that.
-Mike

 

[spoom]

Thanks to everyone for their input! I just ordered the BMP kit with the 1.25" roller. I'll start a build thread for my wife's bike and keep everyone updated on the status of the project.

 

[nhfembiker]

Enjoy the ride, it's definitely more fun with a friend.

Tell me about it...