Bought a bike have some questions about adjustments

merlinfire

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I found something locally for a good price, and even though it wasn't exactly what I wanted, it was too good to pass up.

But I think I need to adjust a few things. So my question is this can these things be easily adjusted?

In the locked position the clutch still engages the engine, I have to hold it in to prevent it.

factory seat was hard as a rock, I bought a new seat that is padded and has a suspension, but I didn't think: are the post one-size-fits-all?

It is a 21 speed does it make sense to pick a good compromise speed and what would that speed be, or should I shift just like just like I normally would?

Guy I bought it from claimed he was running a 5:1 mix. From what I'm reading on here that's way too much oil, right?
 
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For the clutch, just adjust on the lever(turn out-tighten the cable). There should also be a adjustment where it attaches to the engine. if already adjusted all the way out then you probably have to tighten actual cable. I would then move all adjustments all the way back in and then about 3-4 turns out. Then loosen bolt that actually holds cable on clutch arm and pull cable through as needed. (Pic attached for reference) If patient and bike on stand so wheel can spins, you can do this by yourself or get an extra hand to help. You can also pedal it and feel the drag etc...Then adjust as needed. Pull all the way in an it should free wheel and then put in lock and it should remain the same. If it drags a bit then tighten on lever till tight. This took me a few times to get tight but mine was new do it had to wear in some I guess. Does the engine run through the bike gears(jack draft) or is it direct drive? If direct drive then the 21 speeds gave nothing to do with it when motor us on ge dudes he pedaling portion. Mine is direct drive, 7 speed on bike side. I usually start pedaling in 1st or 2nd to bump start it and then leave it. If only pedaling thn I use just like I would a bike and shift accordingly.
If breaking motor in then go around 16.1 and if broken in you can move up from there. I'm running around 32.1 once broken in.
Mike
 
sorry, that's wrong info for clutch adjust - first adjust cable for almost no slack, then lock lever and adjust flower nut until motor trys to turn when rolling bike, now back off the flower nut till motor no longer tries to turn when rolling bike, lock flower nut and release lever and readjust cable if needed
 
sorry, that's wrong info for clutch adjust - first adjust cable for almost no slack, then lock lever and adjust flower nut until motor trys to turn when rolling bike, now back off the flower nut till motor no longer tries to turn when rolling bike, lock flower nut and release lever and readjust cable if needed
Just saying what has worked on mine and would work in the same manner. Just different methodplus as I mentioned, he might just need to adjust/tighten on the lever before going through all the other methods. It's obviously not far off if only engaged when in the lock position. Try the simplest 1st.
 
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Show us a picture of her. Yeah, 5:1 is crazy. I mean the engine is already broken in so you can ease her into 32:1 or something. Also, you might eventually have to inspect the pads for the clutch slipping issue. Depending on the chain tension, you will have to probably be happy with 66% of your prior power, which also means using the higher gears since there is resistance now.
 
I think 5:1 was a typo on the ad or something. it can't even start at 5:1. he was probably running 50:1. that or he thinks "5:1" means 5 ounces to 1 gallon. still too much oil, but it would happily run that way.

also seat posts are not one size fits all. what frame is it?
 
butre the seat came in the mail and it fit the bike fine so I guess I dodged the bullet there.

the engine really seems to struggle and misses pretty bad. i may have bad gas, i dunno. i did order one of the community-suggested iridium spark plugs from sickbikeparts, i think the plug i have is old and probably the stock one that came with the kit. i'm not sure i really understand how the choke works - the symbols don't make any sense. any other suggestions that might help? thanks
 
Are you
sorry, that's wrong info for clutch adjust - first adjust cable for almost no slack, then lock lever and adjust flower nut until motor trys to turn when rolling bike, now back off the flower nut till motor no longer tries to turn when rolling bike, lock flower nut and release lever

Are you saying to push the clutch arm all the way in, pull the cable through and tighten? ( I have memory issues and this is where I'm at on my winter build) thank you in advance.
 
with hand lever released, adjust cable in arm until it is just short of tight - jiggling the hand lever should barely flex the cable loosely a bit before it starts to pull
 
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