Broken Teeth on Clutch Plate

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by tbeeghly, Feb 24, 2008.

  1. tbeeghly

    tbeeghly New Member

    Hey again, bad news again. I was dismounting my engine to replace the hardware earlier because of a broken bolt, and in the process noticed something horrible, a piece of metal that had broken through the gearbox of my happy time 2 stroke. I proceeded to open up the right side of the engine to find a few broken teeth had broken off the larger cog and punctured the engine casing. The bike has been running, but not quite as well as Jon's, whom I built the bikes with. I'm guessing this is the cause. The cogs do not seem to be that heavily greased, should they be? There is a collection of metal shavings and grease near the hole in the box. We bought the engines off of Boygofast, but not through ebay so that we could get a better deal on two of them. I have sent an earlier email about a replacement chain and he didn't reply, so I doubt he'll do anything about this. I'm including pics so you guys understand what's going on. If you have ANY input that would be awesome. We couldn't have built these bikes without you all and I can't repair it without you. Thanks
     

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  2. mickey

    mickey Guest

    Holy cow. That's not wear, that's failure. I almost looks like there was a gas bubble in the casting. Your vendor should make good on that. Good luck.

    Edit: The gears should be lightly greased, a pea size glob of grease placed at the meeting of the gears on an occasional basis. Too much and you can have clutch problems.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 24, 2008
  3. Yeah, this sucks. I'm sorry Taylor.
     
  4. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    Wow.I feel your pain guy, what a bummer. As far as the greese goes, they say to use very little as it can get all over your clutch plates and then you would just slip. Besides within a few minutes it just gets thrown to the side anyways. Where your hole is,is where the grease tends to build up so that is why it seems to be there, along with the shavings. There is no pressure in that part of the case and really all you want to do is keep water and dirt out of there. You could use a metal repair "glue" there and I'm sure you would be fine. Even your gears look like they still line up enough to still be able to drive it unless the gears were in that spot as you tried to bump start it. I myself would take the chance.
    BUT...what caused it? If Mickey is correct that could be a good thing, otherwise you really need to figure out what caused it.
     
  5. tbeeghly

    tbeeghly New Member

    Thanks for the support guys. Have any of you dealt with BoyGoFast? Jon and I arranged a deal for the engines outside of ebay, we just paid through PayPal and he sent us some engines so theres not much I can do if he doesn't respond to my emails. I'll just perpetually send one till he gets the message I guess. Is this problem really that devastating or can I ride like it is?
     
  6. eltatertoto

    eltatertoto Guest

    man it looks like a bomb went off! boy go fast is a cool dude, and 1 time, at 8 o clock at night he even went to the warehouse just to see if he had a part for me. so he should be pretty cool about it, let us know how it goes, it looks rideable, but be careful, if it breakes it breaks do that at your own risk. if youre worried about flying shrapnel, i dont think that will be an issue, unless it completely breaks, and it is thrown off center.
     
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  8. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I agree with Mickey. Sure looks like a defect to me. I would not ride it like that. There is danger of more pieces coming off the clutch disk and doing further damage to other parts of the motor. At least a new clutch plate isn't too spendy. I'd replace the clutch plate and JB Weld the case.
     
  9. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    As always, good point Large Filipino. $20 is not a big deal and he would be smart to change it.I still can't figure out how that could happen,unless it was a factory problem.
    I wonder if pointing out to "go fast" that this is a topic of discusion on this site would "help" gofast in deciding to replace the whole engine?
     
  10. A small rock in there could have done it. It's sitting along then when you release the clutch to start the engine the little jolt would be enough to lodge the rock in the gear and momentum did the rest.
     
  11. tbeeghly

    tbeeghly New Member

    Just an update, I got a hold of BoyGoFast via email and he said he'd 'try his best to get the parts for me'. I'm assuming that means a new clutch cog, and I'm thankful he's sending me that. I applied some JB Weld to the hold in the engine casing. Are there any precautionary/helpful insights you guys have to avoid something like this next time?
    Thanks a lot guys.
     
  12. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    I'm going to assume that it was just a reject part. The only thing i would add is to never let the motor stop suddenly by popping the clutch. Even then you would think a key would break before those teeth. Good luck and hope things work out
     
  13. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    Suggestion

    I reckon the casting was of an abysmal standard unless you were thrashing the guts out of the motor. I find it really important to grease those cogs every 250kms and the best grease I find by far is the lithium based white grease for marine engines. It's usually white and slightly tackier than standard grease. I take the cover off the right side and remove the spark plug so you can turn the motor over in gear and gently apply the grease in small amounts so you see it spread over the cog wheels. Don't use too much but do it frequently. Keep 4 bikes with motors on them so one always works while the other three are broken. That's why I'm building a 4-stroke honda.
     
  14. tbeeghly

    tbeeghly New Member

    I have another update. After some correspondence between myself and BoyGoFast, he has sent me "the parts" (I still don't know what they are), but he sent them in two packages, I'm hoping one is an engine, but that'd be pushing it. I used and EZ Out on my sheared bolt on the engine casing and it worked perfectly. I should get BoyGo's packages in a few days and I'll keep you all posted.
     
  15. You mean "I" used the ezout on your engine.
     
  16. tbeeghly

    tbeeghly New Member

    Well, I got the new clutch disk, but I cannot for the life of me get the old clutch disk off! I've looked through almost every resource here on this site, and I still cannot figure out how to get the disk off. I removed the friction plate, the spring, and then the the nut inside the spring, which by the way was **** near impossible to remove. And still nothing! I have no idea what to do. if you guys have any help that would be awesome. I have to stop for the night I think, unless I figure something out quick, I have a huge drawing due in the morning.

    Thanks
     
  17. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    with your kit, you should have gotten a strange little tool
    it is a gear puller
    if you take the center post out of it, you can turn it around and thread it into where the plate came off
    then, tighten the center, and it will pull the disc out
    this is a picture of the tool
     

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  18. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Hey Bill. Is that the same size as the tool for pulling cranks apart on a bike?
     
  19. I just tap cranks with a sledge hammer when it won't go.
     
  20. tbeeghly

    tbeeghly New Member

    Well, we didn't get a tool that looks like that in our kits, but we did get a tool. I included a pic of what we received. I used it to unscrew the nut on the center of the clutch disk and that didn't to do anything, I still could not get the disk off. I need to be pointed in the direction here, I'm all out of ideas. As always, any input is always appreciated.

    Taylor
     

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