Bucking bar ball bearing lube schedule

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by gearhead222, Sep 6, 2010.

  1. gearhead222

    gearhead222 Member

    Dear Fellow Gearheads-I packed this ball bearing once after purchasing the bike. When should I repack? She has about 200 miles on her now. I realize that too much is bad, as it can get on the clutch pads. Should I check the flywheel retaining nut, along with the drive sprocket retaining nut now? Thanx for any detailed preventive maintenance that should be performed at 200 miles. Thanx!:)-Gearhead
     

  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    About every 3 or 4 tankfulls I put a little grease in there as well as a peanut sized blob right where the 2 transmission gears mesh. If the grease starts to get too messy around the edge of the gear case I clean it out with a q-tip. The grease does fling off from centrifugal force. Also, do not forget to grease the little ball bearings in between the clutch ring gear and clutch hub. They need love too.
     
  3. gearhead222

    gearhead222 Member

    "Also, do not forget to grease the little ball bearings in between the clutch ring gear and clutch hub. They need love too." What do these look like and where are they? I have lubed the transmission gears, but don't know what or where these ones are-Gearhead
     
  4. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    part #7 in this expanded parts view.
    http://www.bicycle-engines.com/2stroke-parts-clutch-assembly-c-4_7.html

    If you remove #2 (outer pressure plate) and look at how the clutch is made you can see where #9 (ring gear) is attached to #13 (clutch base). The bearings are located underneath #6 (ball bearing race). #6 is really just a ring that is pressed into place to hold the assembly together.

    If you push the ring gear away from the small crank gear you can usually get a peek at the bearings if you look from the rear wheel side of the clutch.
    I lube the bearings with white lithium grease in an aerosol can.
    Use pliers to squish one end of the red straw that comes with the can into a thin, flat end. That way you can get it into the small space between the ring gear and #6 (bearing race). Practice with varying your finger pressure on the nozzle of the aerosol can by spraying newspaper or whatever so you can regulate just a little bit of grease to spray out at a time.
    If you spray too much grease in there it will fling out and contaminate the friction pads when the clutch is spinning at high speeds.
    Rotate the clutch around and grease 3 different locations to help get the grease all around the hub. (removing the spark plug makes this alot easier to do) If you accidentally get too much grease in there and it gets onto the inner pressure plate (#13) Spray it and the friction pads clean with brake cleaner. Be careful to not flush the grease out of the bearings though.
     
  5. gearhead222

    gearhead222 Member

    Thanx bro'! I've used Lithium spray grease before and this whole operation looks pretty hinky! How hard is it to remove the pressure plate and just lube the bearings separately? How often does this need to be done? Thanx again:)-Gearhead
     
  6. spad4me

    spad4me Member


    Do NOT remove the 56 tiny bearings behind the clutch.
    The only shop that sold replacements and instructions. Manic Mechanic went out of business.
    You will probably wind up buying another engine if you lose the bearings.

    LUBE
    1 The pea sized blob between the gears.
    2 The spray lube behind the clutch.
    3 Remove the bolt that holds the end of the clutch cable .
    This is where the actual clutch spring and two bearings live.
    Fill the hole with lube . Replace the bolt adjust the clutch.
    Also lube the chain.
     
  7. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    About every 3 or 4 tankfulls.

    As spad4me said, do NOT try to remove the #6 (ball bearing race) and access the bearings directly. The race is a one time press fit. Some folks have even had issues with it coming loose, the clutch failing and all those bearings going everywhere inside the gear case. They do not play well with the gear teeth!

    If that ever happens to you and you catch it in time, press the race back into place and tack weld it to prevent it from ever coming loose again.

    The clutch ring gear/ hub assembly is considered a one piece unit. Some vendors do sell the parts individually, but it typically takes welding to re assemble the clutch.
     
  8. gearhead222

    gearhead222 Member

    Thanx guys! I honestly don't understand lube rule # 3 Spad4me. Gearnut, can you please e-mail me at jwaldron8715@sbcglobal.net concerning accessing the clutch bearings for lubrication? I did locate my Lithium Spray Grease and modified the tip, but am still clueless about how to access those bearings-Thanx again!:)-Gearhead
     
  9. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Lubing the balls.

    I hope this works, it was a real pain to get it to a compatible format. I am no good at such stuff.

    Edit: All I have is MSPaint. I hope you enjoy the art work!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 7, 2010
  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    As for Spad4me's #3:
    Remove clutch cable and remove the cable housing stop from the top of the engine case. It threads into the case and is held in place with a lock nut.

    After the cable stop is removed you will have a hole that goes through the case and into the clutch spring area. Through this hole, fill that area with good quality high temperature grease. There is no need to pack it in tightly though. Just get about a table spoon of quality grease in there. If you over pack it it can ooze out of the ends of the shaft and contaminate the clutch.
     
  11. gearhead222

    gearhead222 Member

    Thanx Gearnut! So I remove the set screw and then remove the outer clutch plate star nut with a drift punch and hammer? Do I then pull in the clutch lever to expose the clutch bearings or do I need to pry at the clutch? I do now understand about the bucking bar lube and have done that about 100 miles ago. I understand that the ring gear and its drive gear can get noisy when they're not lubed. Do the clutch bearings or any other mechanical parts make noise when they start to get dry? Thanx again-Gearhead
     
  12. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    No. Remove the set screw. Next squeeze in the clutch lever and lock it in with the button on the lever or hold it in with tape, wire, string, or a zip-ty around the hand grip. This will relieve all spring tension from the flower nut and outer plate allowing you to turn the flower nut with your finger tips. Push in on the outer plate to compress the helper spring if it gives you trouble. There should never be a reason to use brute force to turn the flower nut. It spins very easily without pressure on it.
     
  13. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    You are welcome.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2010
  14. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    It has been a long time since I lubed a happytime I forgot to add the ball and pin .
    On the drive chain side of the engine remove the cover.
    A small rod will be sticking out of the center of the shaft that holds the drive sprocket.
    Remove it then use a magnet to remove the ball that is also in the center of the shaft.
    Pack the hole with lube reinsert the ball add more lube then add the rod . grease the rotating shaft that actuates the clutch.and reinstall the cover.

    The only thing I have ever needed to relube after the first time is the bean sized blob on the clutch side,
    and the ball and pin

    The main clutch spring and the 56 tiny bearings seem to last if you use good lube.


    If you hear noise it is usually the ball and pin .Do check the bean sized area also.
     
  15. gearhead222

    gearhead222 Member

    Thanx guys! Excellent advice! So by slightly pushing LATERALLY on the clutch, I will create a small gap opposite this pressure point and be able to carefully spritz a small amount of Lithium grease, correct? I guess that the clutch pivots slightly around it's center axis and this pivoting gives me the small gap I need to lube,correct?
    BTW, this is GREAT info! I guess that I would follow the same outer clutch plate removal to replace the clutch pads? Is there anything specific I need to know to replace the clutch pads? I guess that you just pull the old ones out and insert the new ones, after cleaning the outer clutch plate? What do you use to clean the outer clutch plate? Is there any average life span of these clutch pads? Thanx again!:)-Gearhead
     
  16. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Yes, push laterally on the ring gear. The clutches are so poorly made that the ring gear fitment does have some slop on the bearings and hub.
    Using a sharp razor blade, trim the pads whether they are new or used, to fit freely in the pockets. Not a sloppy fit, just so they will be able to have a light push fit. They typically have a ridge all around the circumference that will interferer with proper clutch operation as the pads wear down. Do not grind or sand on the pads as they may contain asbestos. Never ever breath in asbestos or even give yourself the slightest chance of breathing it in.
    There is no average life span for the friction pads that I have heard of yet.
     
  17. gearhead222

    gearhead222 Member

    Thanx again Gearnut! When these clutch bearings start becoming dry, will I be able to hear them? Just don't want to lube them unnecessarily, esp. if I risk getting the clutch pads contaminated:(-Gearhead
     
  18. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    It is really hard to hear them over all the other noises that the engine makes, especially the gear whine from the transmission gears.
     
  19. gearhead222

    gearhead222 Member

    Bummer:( I just know that overlubing can be just as bad as underlubing-Gearhead
     
  20. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

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