Bucking bar

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And by arm of the clutch, you mean that lever with the loaded small spring right?
 
So, just basically hand tighten the flower nut with the itch pushed in right?....Then leave it alone?
 
Unless what you're saying is that loosen up all the slack in the clutch arm, HAND tighten the flower nut, and THEN put back the tension in the arm of the clutch so that it is flushed with the tire or wherever. Right?
 
Yeah, so EVERYTHING has been connected. And for some reason, I can't get the damn engine to turn!! Not a single thing isn't working! It's all put together and still nothing. Any ideas anyone???
 
Uhm, no. Just because it won't start, doesn't mean I don't know what I'm doing. I'm missing something here. I just don't know what. Any REAL help would be appreciated
 
Maybe a dead cdi or mag coil, grab an ohm meter and check your leads. Think it's like 60 or 360 ohms lol on that magneto. They fail like nothing. Also that thing jaguar always mentions, there are screws that hold the mag in place, it sometimes has too much shellac or coating on the mag making a good ground connection bad. You might need to scrape it off.

Also check the kill switch, if it's in kill mode (depending on the kill switch type) it won't let it run.

Check the wires again, black to black and blue to blue and leave the white covered in tape or cut it off.

Just throwing this one out there make sure there's gas in the tank since that's important. Also turn the petcock (tank valve) to the on position since these bikes usually only work if it's on.

Make sure your wire connections aren't shorting on the frame, if the blue wires have bare metal touching the bike frame then you have a short and it won't run, put tape on it.

The clutch is easy, put the cable on the cable arm. Make sure it's tightish, usually parallel with the wheels is a good position. Then squeeze the clutch lever in and lock it. Turn the flower nut (with your hand pressing on the round silver plate it holds in) and turn till it gets snug against the plate, now turn it the other way just a tiny bit so you can roll the bike without turning the motor. If it rolls freely then you turned it enough, if you let the clutch lever go free then you should be able to turn the wheel and the motor will turn without slipping. Readjust cable slack, put covers on and try to make it go.

Check your spark plug gap? If it's too small it might not work, it might not work if it's too big too. I installed or found installed plugs with closed gaps (probably dropped it or whatever) and they don't work good at all...

Make sure the carb is snug against the intake, air leaks are real motherf***ers.

Make sure the headbolts are torqued right, again those airleaks.

First time starting is always going to be a bit harder. Find a big hill and hop on, hope for the best.
 
No. I got it to run. What it was, was that the carb was flooded. Took that apart and reassembled the clutch cable and throttle cable going into the carb. And the chain was a b**ch! I had it too tight and the thing snapped. Luckily, the master link was ONE LINK next to the one that was destroyed. So, then I loosened it and got it to run. Now what should I do after? Obviously I shouldn't ride the thing more than 20 in a day. Let alone ride the thing at full throttle. So,what are some REALLY GOOD TIPS???
 
Oh! Will the bike go faster once the engine is broken in?....
 
Longer than 20? You could run it as far as you like, extra oil, and I like to run it hard lol. Other people say it's too delicate to run hard for a break in. They say to run for 10 minutes and let it cool 15 or 20.

I personally believe it breaks in better when you really burn it in. Look around the forum for more info.

When broken in, and tuned properly, it will or should be significantly faster. Make sure it's running rich and use 25:1 oil ratio, some people say 16:1.

As far as good tips? Wear a damn helmet and don't use vehicles or walls as your primary braking system.
 
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