Build #2 in Full Effect

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by RollingStones, Oct 2, 2014.

  1. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

    So I recently moved from Austin to LA and had to leave my first build behind. A buddy of mine has it and it doesn't run at the moment. I would like to ship it here at one point but till then I had to get something going!

    I started with a Schwinn typhoon
    cruiser-bicycle-parts-schwinn-typhoon-men-s-cruiser-eb86f1.jpg
    And found a guy on craigslist selling the motors for $185 about half an hour from me. From what I hear online companies won't ship them to ya in Cali so I went ahead and picked one up from this guy to try out. It was brand new and everything was in there perfectly.

    So I got everything set up and on the bike.

    Flipped the handle bars upside down and bought soft white handlebar tape and put it right over the stock grip to match the bike. I still have to buy white electrical take and take off those black stickers it came with.

    Took off the magneto cover, sprocket cover, gear cover and motor sprocket and painted them blue (the color on the spray paint can matched the bike but unfortunately the outcome did not :annoyed:) after I primed them I stuck them all in the oven at 350F for about 30 mins to set the paint then did 3 coats of blue and repeated the process.
    IMG_3768.jpg
    IMG_3769.jpg
    Now my main issue is figuring out a seat system... I want the seat to go right in that "V" crevice so that it is lower. I really don't like the look of having the seat be at even height with the tank. Seems like the only way to do it is going to be sawing the seat post and buying a layback seat tube but I would love to hear suggestions.

    IMG_3767.jpg

    One I figure the seat out I'm going to ride until the gallon of gas/oil I bought is gone then drain the tank and paint it blue with a white stripe down the middle in order to match the rest of the bike. The carb air filter will be painted white until I buy a better one in blue or white.

    After that is done I'm going to put up for sale so I can fund the next project :grin5:

    Would love to hear some feedback!!
     

  2. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Nice looking build work and painting!
    Don't forget your chain tensioner ;-}

    There filters used to come with blue filaments but they are red now.
    http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ucts_id=207&osCsid=unitcjjuk7df1dpgq8a7m6k0u6
    Nice filters but ask SBP if they still have blue ones, I think I even still have blue one.

    I would caution against trying to trying to paint your actual carb however, it might look cool for one pic but it will be an ugly mess in a week.

    NIce job some far, well done ;-}
     
  3. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

    The chain tensioner is definitely going to be present on the next paint session!

    All I planned on painting on the carb was the air filter, do you think I should just leave that alone?
     
  4. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

    unfortunately after getting it all set up and pretty I could not get the chain to stop coming off the rear sprocket :rolleyes7: it poped out so good that I could not get the chain unstuck between the spokes and the rear sprocket so I had to cut spokes out and scratch the hell out of my just painted sprocket haha. I expected something like this to happen though.

    On to buying a new rear wheel and taking a few days off the project :sunny::cool2:

    Where would you guys recommend me buying the new 12g spoke coater brake wheel? I have researched prices a bit only but with shipping the cheapest I've found is $50 and some change. Back in austin I got a local bike shop to order me a front and rear pair for $60 and it was there in 2 days...

    So far none of the bike shops here in CA have been very friendly. Every bike shop I've been to just seems to get annoyed that I'm even in there. :annoyed:

    I've already spent way more money then I should have on this build. I need to be little more careful now!
     
  5. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Make sure you mount your sprocket right this time hehe ;-}
     
  6. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

    So I got a 24x215 12g silver coaster break wheel coming with a 24x2.215 whitewall tire and meanwhile I am going to work on doing a little more painting on this bad boy. this is what I'm going to go with... Screen Shot 2014-10-08 at 7.26.25 PM.jpg
     
  7. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

    I might end up leaving the rear sprocket blue as it is now or perhaps black just because I know that while is gon' git dirrrtay :72: the white on the exhaust is just going to be white exhaust tape for looks only.

    I might also ditch these handlebars and get some low ape hangers.

    New wheel should be here next week and after I paint them both blue it'll be ready to ride again :punk:
     
  8. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

    IMG_3867.jpg

    here it is! I really like the turn out and the look.


    I really need help with the chain popping off though :sweat drop:

    I think the issue is that my chain is too long. I could not ride it at all. What I need help with is figuring out the best solution...

    My options at this point would be:

    1- Purchasing a motorcycle chain tool

    2- Purchasing a new (better) chain

    3- Purchasing a new chain tensioner

    If any of you more experienced folks could help me figure out the cheapest and most effective solution I would really appreciate it.

    I plan on keep building these guys one after the other and I am thinking that a motorcycle chain tool might be my best option so that I can use it on other motor chains in the future. Let me know what you guys think!
     
  9. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Yep, way too much chain.
    A normal size bicycle chain breaker won't handle 415, I use a $15 larger breaker from Harbor Freight and it's held up well so far.
     
  10. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

    Took your advice, bought the chain breaker and the chain issue is solved.

    Now the new issue is that one of the head bolts got stripped and I could no longer tighten it making the engine not have the right pressure and therefore not run.

    I researched and from what I saw the way to fix that is to buy a kit and rethread it.

    I didn't have the money so I'm giving it the JB Weld treatment. I have mostly heard that it doesn't work very well but I have also heard some success stories. Im giving this a go to see if I get lucky :sweat drop:

    wish me luck!

    PS: I also looked at torque wrenches so I could properly torque the bolts but was not aware those things cost around $70-$100 :(
     
  11. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member




    Alright everyone here is a quick update on my second go round....



    As mentioned before I stripped the engine head bolt closest to the left side of the exhaust. I attempted to go and buy some JB Weld pour it in the whole and stick the thing back in there, wait 24 hours and retighten it.

    Worked!!!...for 30 seconds :annoyed:

    So just I went to home depot and got some 5/16 screws 5 inches long and with 18 threads per inch (they were the closest size to the actual engine bolt I could find even though the thread count was completely different. I believe that in the hardware section they are just labelled as 5/16-18.

    Since I could not find them with no head I just purchased a saw as well and cut the heads off (Black Sabbath style)
    bolts.jpg

    After I did that I went over to auto zone and bought a Helicoil kit for 5/16-18 and used a 21/64 drill bit to drill the hole in the bottom case of the engine.

    The kit from auto zone comes with a threader and and a new insert to go into the whole which the bolt I cut goes in to (For all the experienced guys out there this post is for the people who are figuring this stuff out as they go like myself)

    Screen Shot 2014-10-17 at 10.50.13 PM.jpg http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ir-system/_/N-26gb?itemIdentifier=557017_0_0_

    bolts2.jpg I put a little piece of cardboard around the hole of the engine to keep the shavings from going into the engine case as I drilled.

    Stuck the case back on there tightened it back (no torque wrench, just common sense and an x pattern... as in trying to tighten all bolts the same amount across)

    what do you know?! got it running :tt1:

    Only issue was that it would not idle. I checked it for air leaks but even though every time I peddle started it would go no problem when I stopped it would die. I was nervous that it was an air leak in the engine head itself but as I was riding around the block the exhaust fell off at which point I could ride and idle like a boss....

    Obviously I had something funky going on in the exhaust department that was causing it not to idle correctly. My muffler got run over a few times so I'm in the market for a new one.


    The main point I want you to take from this is if you're brand new, is that I thought I would for sure be F***ing my engine up as I was hand cutting bolts and attempting to do this Helicoil business the experts here had been talking about. Turns out the whole deal cost me $30 and was way less stressful then taking the easy, cheaper route.

    I had not seen anyone talk about buying their own bolts and cutting them to fit so I was extra nervous but I am proud and happy to have listened to advice and run off with it!

    Listen to what the experienced guys say! But don't be afraid to do your own thing.
     
  12. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

  13. RollingStones

    RollingStones Member

    Here is the latest update. I know you guys are already bored with my post put I gotta do it anyway...

    Added a banana seat with a smaller sissy bar. I have an expansion chamber and ADA air filter coming in tomorrow, can't wait.

    Banana.jpg
     
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