Can't drive due to epilepsy

zjharva

New Member
Local time
7:45 PM
Joined
May 15, 2015
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2
Location
Sykesville, MD
Hi! I've been considering one of these bike engines for a while, but losing the ability to drive in a rural area has really strengthened my resolve to install one of these kits on a bike. I come from a bit of a "bike snob" family, parents and I ride on expensive road bikes ($1000-3000 high end bike). Personally, I don't see the point as high end components only count if you're a skinny ass tall guy (like me) but I'm young enough that high end Shimano parts vs. no name will make no difference. I'm just trying to take back some of my freedom, and be able to commute to my friends' houses so that I'm not as much of a burden on them. The bike engine kits are easy to find for good prices (bikeberry.com, etc. from my research), I'm just curious to see what kind of bike would best suit my needs with one of these kits. I have no stigma about brands/component quality (planning on buying from walmart/bikesdirect.com) , but I am curious as too what kind of braking and suspension is necessary to have a safe ~50 mph bike. I can get a "full suspension" (****ty geometry and such) or a non-suspension fatbike from walmart for about the same pricepoint, so I am wondering what advantages each would have. I am definitely used to and comfortable with being heavy on the front brake (better torque moment and weight transfer, etc. compared to rear brake only) so I've been considering this bike without a rear brake (disc would interfere with sprocket). TLDR: I am looking for the best budget speed build for a reliable, precise, and stable bike.
 
No such thing as a SAFE 50MPH BICYCLE.....bicycles simply are not made for that speed
 
If you were capable of building a bike that could do 50 mph, you wouldn't be posting questions asking about it. Shoot for something more reasonable like 30-35 miles per hour unless you want to throw an extra $1000 into the mix
 
Any bike can do 50 mph, for some it takes a higher mountain than others. Make sure your brakes are in good shape first!
 
Yeah. Sorry to say it, but 50 mph is too much for a bicycle.

Someone around here had a signature that said, "Twenty is plenty". And I agree. Though I'll admit that there's plenty of folks who're comfortable with thirty. But I'm not.

I also wouldn't recommend relying on only one brake for one of these bikes.

Having tried a few of each, I've come to the conclusion that I prefer a single-speed w/coaster brake over a freewheel with multiple chainrings.

So if you go that route, then you might consider the Huffy Cranbrook. A sturdy, bargain bike. Good frame and good wheels.

However, the rear wheel does have one weak point. That rear hub. It's not great. But it can be made to work okay with attention and maintenance. Or that hub can be replaced.

Still, no need for me to go into too much detail. This is one recommendation. And you'll surely get others.

But most of us do feel that the beach cruiser is one of the better bikes for this job.
 
They make adapters that allow you to use a rear disc with a sprocket. I'm personally partial to drum brakes, and I've got a front drum that is large enough I may never need a rear brake, but I still have a rear drum as well. Also, if you want 50MPH, it can be done and it can be done safely if the builder knows what they're doing. But right now, that's not you. It takes a lot of knowledge and experience, and most of the guys building the 50+MPH bikes do it for a living. But you can trust that these professionally built bikes can do 50 or more safely. People are lying when they say a bike can't be safe at 50 MPH. However, no Walmart bike is ever going to do 50 safely. Every newbie wants to do 50 on the cheapest bike they can find. And it's honestly a little surprising coming from someone with so much experience with high end bikes. High end components might not add performance, but I've never heard anyone say a high end bike was unsafe in the hands of someone who knew how to ride it. You get what you pay for. Cheap bikes and components will give about as much safety as performance and reliability, in other words not much. Worry about making it safe and reliable before making it fast. Spend money on safety, not speed.
 
Most bikes are not made for those speeds and the ones that are generally cost 5 figures. The sprinters in the Tour De France can achieve 55 mph on flat ground for short distances but their bikes are not from Walmart!
 
I've put over 200,000 miles on bicycle in the past 30 years and done over 50, 60MPH without any help but a few big hills around where I grew up.

As an experienced bicycle rider, and a MaBer for 8 years, let me tell you, I've been down a couple times. I've had to go to the hospital.
A bicycle crash is really easy to happen and will screw your day up real quick. Ask anyone who's gone down if you haven't yourself.

There's a point on a motor-assisted bicycle that you're really just asking for too much. I've seen it hundreds of times on the forums.
Once you want to cruise over 35-40MPH reliably, you need either a $500+ 2-stroke or a 30+lb 4-stroke. It's really another level.
The bicycle has to be built really well, and in the end, you're looking at at a light, loud, finicky 2-stroke killer or ~100lbs for a 40+MPH 4-stroke cruiser.
If you want light and fast without making a ruckus, you pretty much have to go electric. That has it's own subset of ramifications.

If you know all this and are still kinda dumb enough to do it, a well-built steel-framed bicycle with adequate room in the frame for the motor and reduction is foremost.
Strong spokes and hoops, great brakes, serious-business tires. Walmart is a joke here. It will get you in the game quick and cheap, but it's not made for severe duty.

Once you ask for more than 40MPH out of a bicycle on a regular basis it has to be built as well as a motorcycle. And maybe you should be on one or a scooter.
 
If you're planning to use a china girl engine I would avoid that fat tired bike for a first build, getting chain clearance for those is just another problem.
It is a cool looking bike, though.
I'm a slow ride advocate, too. There's a lot to be said about being legal, the bumps aren't so sharp, the engine will last a long time and you have more chance to react to those cars backing out in front of you and whatnot.
Car drivers all think you're going about 10 mph when you are actually traveling a lot faster. They have no respect for bicycles and some jerks will deliberately crowd you off the road, which isn't as dramatic at 25mph.
 
Sounds like I was a little over ambitious! Alright I think I'm planning to do an ebay engine (PLEASE DON'T JUDGE ME!), and then find a decent cruiser/MTB with V-brakes and rig it up. Figure I'll aim for around 30-35 mph top end (fastest speed limits on my routes are ~40), but maybe plan some simple mods to bump it up a little. In terms of speed I am very comfortable right up to ~50 on road bike slicks and have done approximately that on downhill bikes and my beater commuter at college; no ********. Don't think for a second that I'm trying to brag about me having some giant cojones but I am very comfortable with speed and know the limits of my machines very well! With a freewheeling hub I ought to be alright up to ~40 with complete **** components from walmart/used bikes, so I think I'll plan for that with some very heavy pedal assistance. I can sprint up to ~40 (flat for a very short period of time!) on my roadbike, but this would just be a little commuter so I will plan accordingly. In jest I'll say some of you guys need to hop on a road bike and blast down some hills, the experience of going 50 from pedals and gravity alone is amazing! Although I am blessed to be 20 years old with a 155 pound frame, lets just hope I can keep that up without getting too lazy from the motor. Thanks for the help everyone, I'm sure this will help me out with easing the burden on my friends/family for rides as well as letting me not show up dripping with sweat to my destinations. I will keep y'all posted as I build up my bike.
 
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