Chain with no tensioner ok?

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Chains, Aug 29, 2016.

  1. Chains

    Chains Guest

    Hey guys having a lot of trouble with this chain tensioner is it possible to ride without one ?
     

  2. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    I never use one!
    I've seen improvements in speed because of it.... Probably just me though:)
     
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  3. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member

    Thanks man my bikes running at about 60+mph so faster u say even better lol
     
  4. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    I call BS on this 60MPH claim for a direct drive regular kit bike.
    What are you running that will hit 60?
     
  5. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member


    Lol this my friend
     

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  6. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member

    I found this also it works great
     

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  7. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    You will need some axle tugs, aka chain tugs, if you don't already have them.
    You probably want to put a tensioner on the pedal chain so that you don't have the potentially impossible task of getting both chains' tension correct _and_ the wheel lined up straight by axle position alone.

    Nice bike, btw. :)
     
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  8. JunkyardDog

    JunkyardDog Active Member

    This is the way it should be done.
     
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  9. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    I love axle tugs, they are a must for IGH shifters to keep the hub from being pulled forward.
    Of course that depends on the dropouts through...
     
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  10. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member

    Thanks man I fixed I should have got that one junkyarddog showed but have this one instead
     

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  11. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    Idk.. Personally. I actually think they're both unnecessary if you have the clearance for a straight chain. If they're sprung, then surely you have to have room for a straight chain to use them... In which case, with horizontal dropouts, what are they doing?

    I have NEVER tried it, and I'm in process of building a shifter anyway. Just want to be clear about that.

    But from general cycle experience and reading this forum, I would prefer the tensioner on the pedal side instead and just use the axle tugs in the dropouts to tension the motor chain.
     
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  12. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member

    What do u mean axle tugs? Explain please because I just had to rig this so called high performance chain temsioner the spring broke off so I used some metal wire to replace the spring the popped off on a main road my chain didn't kink thank god. I was going pretty fast..
     
  13. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    Oh apparently it's chain tug or axle puller.. Sorry. I have always called it a chain tensioner since that's what my friends all called it lol, but that doesn't make sense on this forum! Goggle "chain tugs". It just pulls your axle back in the dropouts to adjust and set tension your chain and get the wheel straight, and prevent the axle moving forward while you tighten the wheel nuts. It's like the accurate and "proper" alternative to jamming a rolled up newspaper between your tyre and seat tube! The chain tension would always make the axle creep forward on that side of the BMX bike when the nuts were being tightened so that it was difficult to get the wheel straight when you didn't have a newspaper to hand.
    Yeah chain tugs.. Surly make the best stainless ones that open beers! (but silly price.) There are many options. I like the ones with two allen head bolts. :)

    Glad to hear you are okay. I hope it is possible to move the tensioner to the right hand chain where it won't be stressed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2016
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  14. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member

    Ok going for that next but now my screws broke off inside my mag rimz from the engine chain drive sprocket side just bought them to 145$ down the toilet unless I find a guy to re-tap it fat chance just went outside to start it and it just rolled jeeze any suggestions on the strongest screws I can get?? lol
     
  15. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    %&#£! :eek: Who sold you the bolts? Is the thread also ruined or can you extract the bits of bolt? (With a drill, two holes, and hammer a screwdriver in there to unscrew them.. I am sure there's a good few more ways people have come up with on here)
    And any M5 (or whatever you have) bolts SHOULD be strong enough IMO.
     
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  16. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member

    I've looked but hard to find a good one I'll try my best wish me luck ;) lol
     
  17. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    Where are you looking, bicycle shops? M5 and M6 are used in stems and all sorts of high stress situations. But did the bolts come with the wheel or from the original engine kit? If the thread in the wheel is okay you should be fine. I AM wishing you luck! Those wheels are too nice and too expensive to have this ruin them.. :/
     
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  18. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member

    Bought the bolts from a hardware store
     
  19. Luybaton

    Luybaton Member

    I agree
     
  20. Steve Best

    Steve Best Active Member

    Most hardware store bolts are only the equivalent of Grade 2 or metric 5.8.
    Here is a comparison chart:
    [​IMG]

    For nuts the makings are usually little dimples shown here under their respective bolts:
    [​IMG]

    A metric 8.8 is typically all you need, especially if it is threaded into aluminum.

    Steve
     
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