Changing the roller on a Staton kit

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by mifletz, Nov 2, 2009.

  1. mifletz

    mifletz Member

    How easy is it to change the roller on a Staton kit?

    Can the average person do it?

    What exactly is the procedure?
     

  2. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    For an average DIYer it is not easy and is expensive.

    After the engine is taken out, remove the Staton engine housing. Take it to the machinist. He will press out the friction roller. If the bearings and roller are still good, set the unit aside for possible future use.

    If the roller is 1.25" or smaller in diameter, you can try to remove the roller yourself. Remove the outboard bearing circlip, then try pressing or pounding out the unit towards the engine side.

    On Staton kits, bearings are pressfit onto the friction roller and the aluminum housing. That makes it difficult to remove and reinstall bearings and rollers.

    I have Staton friction rollers and bearings on a BMP friction drive. After modifying the rollers for slipfit onto the bearings, removal is in less than 60 seconds.

    If the machinist can take you in, maybe you can do the roller change in a few hours.:whistling:
     
  3. moondog

    moondog Member

    I think they are press fit for a reason. One to keep everything tight and balanced. You don't want the steel bearing wobbling in the aluminum at all.

    The aluminum channel is also tight on the bearings when they get warm or hot and helps carry the heat away, like a heatsink.

    Vern says that heating the channel in an oven should make the bearings easy to pop out.

    Heat the channel and put the bearings in the freezer to install ?

    I have not tried.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2009
  4. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Personally, I cannot deal with pressfit drive units. This is because I change engines often. To accomodate the engines' different rpm range, I need to change roller sizes. I do not have a press, so removing and reinstalling noisy bearings and different rollers got to be too expensive.

    BMP uses a slip fit on the bearings' inner and outer diameters. I figured that if it was good enough for this vendor, it's good enough for me.

    This is not to say that my slip-fitting the Staton friction rollers onto a BMP friction drive unit is the right way to do it. It works well for me because the bearings and roller are removed and reinstalled in the time that a good swimmer can hold his breath. There are no labor costs involved so that's a plus.

    I can still remember the times that I tried to R&R the roller and bearings out of my Staton friction drives. It was an expensive and a labor-intensive chore each time I did so.
     
  5. eastwoodo4

    eastwoodo4 Member

    just a tip.them bearings are common.they get used on a lot of snapper mower parts.their just a caged bearing.you should be able to find them at a good hardware store like pickets.i found them around my town for 2.50 each.

    this is the same bearing i believe.you can find them even cheaper than this.
    i would get a set for each roller and avoid having to press them off and on.

    http://www.mymowerparts.com/partdetail/1064/14027.php
     
  6. moondog

    moondog Member

    Right ? BMP went from aluminum to steel for a reason.

    A 4" x 8" x 12" long piece of 1/4" thick aluminum rectangular tubing costs $23 where I live. That will make 2 friction drive channels so I don't think it is the cost of materials.

    I am thinking that hole Staton put in the side of that channel is very precision made with a tool that cost a lot of money.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2009
  7. eastwoodo4

    eastwoodo4 Member

  8. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Yes, I buy my bearings on ebay for a great deal.

    BTW, if the Staton roller is 1.375" or larger, it will not pass thru the housing's 1.375" bearing holes. This makes it VERY difficult to remove the bearings or roller. I had the machinist remove it for me for $85.:ack2:

    FWIW, my Staton 1.375" roller measurers 1.42".
     
  9. cpuaid

    cpuaid Member

    ouch!!! sounds like i need to move over to a BMP kit. I love my Staton kit but not if its going to cost me $35.95 for a replacement 1.5" roller, $5.95 per bearing, and $85 install. Love the easy roller removal for the BMP but wished they had a 1.5" knurled roller.
     
  10. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Yeah, easy R & R and cost are the reasons I chose BMP kits. A good assortment of agressive sturdy rollers is why I chose Staton spindles.

    The best of both worlds.
     
  11. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    mifletz
    The spindle and bearings are assembled with a press fit so a shop press is pretty much necessary but makes their disassembly fairly straight forward. You don't need a particularly high capacity press however one with a large enough opening, around 10", is needed for the set-up blocks.
     
  12. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Question: How does a machinist remove a 1.5" friction roller from the drive housing when its bearing holes are 1.375"?:confused:
     
  13. moondog

    moondog Member

    Heat the channel. Push the bearing and roller out the side as far as they will go then use a puller to remove the bearing that is on the outside of the channel ( the other bearing is still on the roller on the inside of the channel ). Then remove the roller ( still has one bearing on it ) ?

    I think I understand why they made it press fit. The bearing holders are aluminum.

    We bought a friction drive kit from BGF and it had a steel channel like BMP's kit but BGF's kit had a steel machined bearing holder welded to each side and the bearings were a slip fit.

    Best designed friction drive setup I have seen but not the best built.

    When I build one it will be a copy of the BGF kit.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2009
  14. motman812

    motman812 Member

    I just changed the roller on my Staton friction drive after 2100 miles and didn't have any problem whatsoever. After removing the engine I carefully vised up the clutch bell and unscrewed the roller with a pipe wrench. Then I put a 1" closed end wrench (a 1" socket would have been better) on the bearing and tapped the roller and both bearings out out with a hammer. I even did it twice because when I reinstalled the roller and bearings (using the same method) I hadn't placed the split rings on the correct side of the housing. I moved up from a 7/8" to a 1 1/8" roller and increased my top speed from 20 to24 mph. I ran it for 10 miles and it works great!
     
  15. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Yes you can. However, you cannot remove and reinstall bearings and roller as a unit, with 1.375" and 1.5" rollers.
     
  16. kerf

    kerf Guest

    I have a problem with roller changes in a Staton unit that I need some help with. On my old unit, the clutch drum had two elongated slots, either side of the drum hub. This allowed me to use a homemade spanner to turn the drum and break the Loctite Red when unscrewing it from the roller. My new drum doesn't have these slots and the engine spacer doesn't leave enough drum exposed to use a strap wrench. What would be the best way to get a grip on the drum, without deforming it?
     
  17. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    I drilled two new holes in mine and then, as mentioned, improvised a spanner.
     
  18. kerf

    kerf Guest

    Thanks, I thought about that but was concerned about effecting balance. I also thought about dropping my spare clutch shoes in the drum and using some type of cam setup to expand them. Probably couldn't get enough friction to turn the darn thing. I'll call David but I think your idea may be the only way.
     
  19. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    I doubt balance will be a problem. The DE drives I've had have one 1/4" hole drilled in the outside clutch shoe bearing surface of the drum used for locking the drive when changing rollers. Zero balance issues noted there.
     
  20. kerf

    kerf Guest

    That's interesting.
     
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