Charge a sla battery with a stator?

[Frankenstein]

I suggest you don't get fixated on a participial voltage if you are going to remote charge it.
Get lights that all use the same voltage and put in a battery of that voltage.

My lights are entirely 12 volt led strip lights or bulbs, my battery is 18 volt with a power converter to drop it to 12 just after the battery.

Watt the hell is participial voltage? Are we talking about past tense voltage or current tense? I'm not feeling amped about this discussion...

Seen a few li ion motorcycle batteries, they can pump out a ton of amperage and it might be worth looking at, lightweight too and I don't risk dumping sulphuric acid all over my bike, both pluses.

 

[KCvale]

My lights are entirely 12 volt led strip lights or bulbs, my battery is 18 volt with a power converter to drop it to 12 just after the battery.

Cool, if everything is 12V that tank makes everything easier.

Watt the hell is participial voltage?
Are we talking about past tense voltage or current tense?
I'm not feeling amped about this discussion...

Damn spell check... I meant practical voltage for your systems needs, I have a system based on 8.4V for everything to match LED needs.
Your needs are 12V, so practical for you.

Seen a few li ion motorcycle batteries, they can pump out a ton of amperage and it might be worth looking at, lightweight too and I don't risk dumping sulphuric acid all over my bike, both pluses.

I recommend you stay with Lead Acid for a gas bike, LI battery packs like a regulated full cycle charge and balancing, and their is a 'battery life' based on charging cycles.

Lead Acid doesn't care how often or fully it's charged.

As for spilling the batteries acid on you bike, don't use an Automotive battery with filler caps for adding water!
That's why Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) batteries were invented.
The only way those suckers leak is if you bust them open which is not an easy feat as it is.

Best of luck on your system bud ;-}

 

[Frankenstein]

Cool, if everything is 12V that tank makes everything easier.


Damn spell check... I meant practical voltage for your systems needs, I have a system based on 8.4V for everything to match LED needs.
Your needs are 12V, so practical for you.


I recommend you stay with Lead Acid for a gas bike, LI battery packs like a regulated full cycle charge and balancing, and their is a 'battery life' based on charging cycles.

Lead Acid doesn't care how often or fully it's charged.

As for spilling the batteries acid on you bike, don't use an Automotive battery with filler caps for adding water!
That's why Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) batteries were invented.
The only way those suckers leak is if you bust them open which is not an easy feat as it is.

Best of luck on your system bud ;-}

Well I can't disagree about the li ion being based on charge cycles, of course though at the amperage I see I could go nearly a week without recharging with my riding habits, if I keep a backup battery on board and wait till the mains power is depleted, I could get roughly 1k charges which is about 1k weeks, hell I'd take only 200 charges being that that's close to 4 years at 1 charge a week.

Catch my drift? And again the lightweight is a plus no doubt.

 

[KCvale]

Well I can't disagree about the li ion being based on charge cycles, of course though at the amperage I see I could go nearly a week without recharging with my riding habits, if I keep a backup battery on board and wait till the mains power is depleted, I could get roughly 1k charges which is about 1k weeks, hell I'd take only 200 charges being that that's close to 4 years at 1 charge a week.

Catch my drift? And again the lightweight is a plus no doubt.

Agreed ;-}

 

[Frankenstein]

Agreed ;-}

OK hmm, I misread something perhaps, the li ion battery I was looking at isn't meant for deep charge cycles, just startup cranking... Maybe I'll have to go with a sealed lead acid deep cycle, as it would stand up better to charging on an almost daily basis,while holding up against a long discharge (weekend+monday trip perhaps?) Still would like to figure out a self charging method... I know perhaps I'll invest in one of them helicopter hats, I could tape it to my helmet and put a motor on it to generate electricity. Bonus is if I reverse the circuit I can power the motor to give me some extra lift, and I'll be able to bypass traffic without having to use my alien in a basket routine, which is so last year.

 

[bakaneko]

Can one of those friction dyanmo help? I think they are AC though...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-No-Fricti...954185?hash=item1a16665249:g:e1YAAOSwFnFV8lqQ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Frictio...ash=item4d3ce68add:g:zUoAAOSwR0JUQ5TO&vxp=mtr

 

[Frankenstein]

Can one of those friction dyanmo help? I think they are AC though...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-No-Fricti...954185?hash=item1a16665249:g:e1YAAOSwFnFV8lqQ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Frictio...ash=item4d3ce68add:g:zUoAAOSwR0JUQ5TO&vxp=mtr

I wish, I looked at those types of things on eBay from every angle, the first link is probably barely enough power to run the lights they power, but still very cool.

The second link, I honestly tried to figure that out a freaking million times over, the problem is it generates 6 watts, I would like to power a system that uses roughly 3 times that much power, so while the battery will run them, the total input will be less than the drainage, so basically the battery will still run out of energy.

I even considered using more than one, in series I could get the appropriate amps, I think, but too many if's, can they even be hooked up in series, can they prevent electricity from flowing back into them (diodes solve this but affect voltage,) are they actually really 6 watts, I mean honestly getting an accurate amperage draw from this at normal bike speeds and average tire speeds is going to be difficult, I don't think the leds they put in the lamp is even half the wattage they claim. Will they stand the test of time, say like more than 3 months, they don't have very good warrantees, if any. Also relies on the bike moving to create power, which means they need to be stabilized on their output to the battery unless I want weird power gremlins and burnt wires.

From what I understand many of these don't even generate dc, and if they do it's only rectified, not regulated, meaning at 30mph I could generate 40 volts at whatever amps, and that's a problem, I'd need a converter/regulator that can sustain inputs at that strength and the corresponding amps for lengths of time that could make too much heat to even be kept in the plastic box that holds everything.

Don't have much time for the trouble shooting phase, with my son, and a job, and a warden on my back, I mean wife, I am lucky to get half a day a week to use on my bike.. So it's better spent finding a tried and true idea that will be an easy swap or add on to what I have that will meet my needs.

It's looking like I don't have many options, I've seen pics and posts of an interesting set up using a tractor dynamo, it is a friction system but seems to do justice, however I've got the bad mix of not enough time, money, room on frame, or ambition to implement it on my bike.

Tldr; damn, looks like I'm plugging in a sealed lead acid battery every other day.

 

[KCvale]

You put batteries in Parallel to increase Amps, in Series to increase Voltage.
Whatever method you use to generate electric power from the engine will be lost and felt to your back wheel.

 

[Frankenstein]

You put batteries in Parallel to increase Amps, in Series to increase Voltage.
Whatever method you use to generate electric power from the engine will be lost and felt to your back wheel.

I know the whole parallel vs series deal, I even mentioned specifically hooking Dynamos in series, but it was the tldr post before yours.

I think it was well established in the thread that no matter what you use to power the lights, if being powered by the motion of the bike, that you will end up removing energy from the system resulting in a slightly slower speed, that's kinda how the laws of physics work...

The issue isnt weather or not I'm converting 1% or 99% of my engines kinetic energy into power, it's how can I pull the minimum needed power from the engine to sustain an electrical system when I need it.

Possibly I can use a system that will give more output during the day, where my 10 watt lamp and decorative lights will not be used, and that will charge and top off a battery, while at night, when the mentioned lights will likely be used, the generator will supplement the battery in powering the lights, and as long as the capacity is large enough to I *shouldnt* run into problems.

 

[KCvale]

The thing is, AC gens do not play well in series or parallel.
You have to turn each to DC power first before before you start adding them together.