Cheap reed valve setup

[lazylightning@mail.r]

I made my exhaust port 29 mm wide, not sure I remember the timings. My transfers were 112 with a stock piston, but after putting ramps on it, the timing wheel showed a transfer timing of 122, which isn't exactly true with ramped piston edges. I had to modify the squish band head chamber because it didn't line up with the cylinder. My piston skirt had to be modified to fit the contour of the flywheel because the conrod is 5mm shorter than stock. I widened the inside back part of the transfer channels so far back towards the stud hole lines that the flow through the transfers was "corrected" in an inovative new way without restriction flow volume and providing a proper forward directing angle.

Later I removed the small toungue of material and opened this area up for more flow volume.

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

I tried to correct the end of the rings length. I added some jbweld to the ends after filing them just enough to get clean rough metal for a strong hold. I used an industrial standards cross reference sheet to find the optimum gap width for the rings and used a feeler gauge with the piston installed into the cylinder upside down and bottom end up so I had access to the side of the piston rings while they were installed.

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

I did a balance change in the fly wheel two years ago when Installed the Yamaha conrod. Also, I stuffed the cranks with aluminum sheet cut to fit and jbweld around the center bearing journal structure in the case. Not that I needed a high CCR, I just wanted to make up for all the parasite empty space that can occur when widening channels and installing a reed setup. Also, I do not recommend using stock piston wrist pins, pin clips and bearings. I took a pin and clips from a Takemori piston and bought a Malossi upper end bearing for the conrod/pin. Just to make sure I went overboard, I used special professional racing coatings that have to be sprayed on with an aerography brush and baked in an oven at 15oC or more for an hour or so. One coating is a dry lubricant that makes the parts super slippery and doesnt wear off, and there is a thermal coating that goes onto the top of the piston and inside of the head. This keeps the heat from penetrating into the piston and head and keeps it in the exhaust. There's another coating for the backside of the piston and conrod that causes oil to shed quickly and thus dissipate heat, but I don't have it yet.
Also, I used jbweld to glue a steel plate to the carter on the area around the chain drive gear because I had a chain eat a hole through the aluminum and break the seal of the crankcase which caused a major air leak.

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

I got it all running recently. Sorry, no gopro here, just held the camera strap in my teeth.

And rooster tails:

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

I think I will take this route with my next build. At least for the cylinder and piston. http://motoredbikes.com/threads/this-top-end-got-skills.47543/

 

[V8bacon]

Hello and thanks for that info really good work . How are you getting to cut the transfer ports ? Are you using a right angle grinder. And where can I find some of that reed material.

 

[zippinaround]

very nice ! i might try make my own reed valve adapter after seeing this thanks lazy!

 

[Deleted member 12676]

lazy you sure aren't lazy! that's a lot of work. I saw your video and can tell it's got some beefy power.
I'll bet it feels like a 100cc.

 

[Arty]

Wow! That is a ton of work. - I hope it goes like the clappers of hell for you when you're done.