Clevelland Welding All American 1930's-42

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by Chris Crew, Aug 22, 2009.

  1. Chris Crew

    Chris Crew Member

    What does something like this go for in your part of the world?

    "all original" (except maybe the paint and the kickstand)

    Rolls easily, drive train works, (has not been lubricated in a looong time) really funky tires, but alas, rotted; brake does not seem to catch.

    Happy Time .49 fits right in.

    Dig that groovy saddle!

    Attached Files:

  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    There used to be a shop around here that "specialized" on older/ antique bicycles. I have seen bikes there that were like that, in similar condition, go for $200- $250 range.
  3. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    That's a collectible bike. Good find.
  4. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    I don't know if every old bike is valuable. But if it has any value, it might be enough that you don't want to motorize it. (that is, if $ is the top priority)

    But that bike sure does look like an MB beauty, all the same, doesnt' it?
  5. Chris Crew

    Chris Crew Member

    All American

    My chief concern with motorizing it is the condition of the spokes--not sure how much it might cost to re-string the wheels. Because it is a skip link chain (two rollers instead of one fit between each tooth on the sproket) there is no such thing as just swapping out for a new wheel without a lot of work.

    I plan to go for a stripped down racer with this one--I'll save all of the parts so one could go back if desired. This thing weighs a ton--the steel for those fenders is about as thick as a shovel blade. Rather than chop them up, I'll try and find some other toss off's to cut down into mud guards.

    I'm not in a real hurry to start since there is a bike and a half ahead of it in line, so I'm going to take it to the shop tomorrow and see about the cost of fixing the wheels and then I'll just let it sit and mellow for as long as I can stand.
  6. ocscully

    ocscully Member


    The fact that the bike uses Skip-Tooth sprockets and chain does not mean you can't use newer wheels. The rear sprocket should transfer over to a modern coaster brake hub without any problems. The rear cog is held on with a cir-clip and the modern coaster brake hubs still use the same ID and spline pattern for their cogs. New wheels would take away from the great patina of your bike but so will having new spokes put into your current wheels. Having your old wheels respoked will probably be more expensive than buying new wheels, but assuming you have access to a good wheel builder, Handmade wheels are always better (in my opinion) than anything you can purchase that is made by a machine.

  7. Chris Crew

    Chris Crew Member

    wheel building 101

    Interesting--I hope you can give me more detail on shifting the cog to a new wheel.

    I took the bike by both of the shops in Raleigh that would stoop to look at something funky and old (the other four are snooty pushers of the most current trend and more interested in selling one $4,000 bicycle than providing customer service in a city of 400,000 folks)

    Anyway, one of them said $80 to put new spokes in the existing wheel, but I would have to take the cog off myself.

    The other said $80-100 and that they would probably recommend replacing the rim too since tight new spokes might just pull right through the old rim.

    If you can explain how to swap out the cog (and I am assuming you mean to just graft the old cog onto a new coaster hub vs. putting the old coaster guts into a new hub) I would like to go that route---gotta keep up my cheap ******* creds you know.

    I've gotten interest on another in some of the parts (most notably the "snake belly" tire on the rear which still holds air 70 years later. I'll bet I could get something for the fenders and original wheels too.

    Thanks for your help.
  8. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    Coaster Brake Info

    Chris, The link I'm providing below is to the Coaster Brake page at Its a good place to start. What make and model is the brake/hub on your bike? Can you provide any close-up photos of the Hub.

  9. Chris Crew

    Chris Crew Member

    photos of new departure hub ca 1939

    Here are a couple of pics--the notch in cog (pic 3) is an interesting feature that may have something to do with its removal.

    Attached Files:

  10. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    More Coaster Brake Info.


    Here is another link at the Sheldon Brown site direct to New Departure hubs. You will find the model D like yours right at the top of the page. As for the slot you pointed out in the photo above its actually to make it possible to lace up the hub without taking the hub apart. You align the slot with the spoke holes to put in the spokes. The other thing I can tell you now that I've seen the photos is, the cog is threaded on and not 3 splined type used on more contemporary hubs. Usually there isn't alot that goes wrong with these older quality coaster brake hubs that a simple take apart, clean and relub won't cure. If what you are looking to do is maintain the Patina built up over all these years I'd probably just go thru the hubs and clean and relub, brush off the major dirt on the exterior and then rebuild the wheels you have using 12g.105 SS spokes and nipples. If you need to purchase any small parts for your hubs is a possible source for parts. As for spokes here is a link to a source for the spokes and nipples.

    Last edited: Aug 25, 2009
  11. Chris Crew

    Chris Crew Member

    Thanks a bunch! I have not been able to open the sheldonbrown site yet--it's not the link, I couldn't get on when I googled it either. I'll keep trying.

    I think I will go ahead and relace it myself one spoke at a time.
  12. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    I have not done this yet.......
    When I inquired about re-lacing the rear wheel on my Hawthorne, the owner of the bicycle shop I referred to earlier told me that I can also find a newer coaster brake hub with an even number of teeth on the sprocket and just file every other tooth off of the sprocket. Apparently the "tooth pitch" is the same with an inch pinch chain and a modern chain. Only the design of linking the links are different.