Clutch clutch arm question

I just took off the other side today and the clutch appears to be working fine. Its not sticking. So the problems has to be the clutch arm hitting the frame. Just wish there was an easy way of taking the clutch arm from the pin camshaft.

I also noticed that there was some wear on the pin camshaft and that also would be the reason for additional clutch disengagement.

Ideas still welcome.

The wear to the edge of the cam is actually another modification that some people like to do, lol.
I guess this IS the reason why you need to pull the arm further in to open/disengage the clutch than you did before.
It makes me wonder why it wore down and is this abnormal wear. How much use has the part had? Is the bucking bar ball bearing failing to isolate the bucking bar from the rotation of the rest of the clutch/drive shaft parts?

You can bend the arm out, I suppose. You will be making the angle that the cable pulls from even more acute (heavy to operate) if you go through with this, though.. I would prefer to find a way to adjust it to disengage before the arm hits the frame.. but I am repeating myself..

So how come your clutch arm hits the frame anyway? Just out of interest. Weird frame, or what? Maybe someone will have an idea to do with this. Can you show us photos of this?
 
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its a crappy wallmart special. I remember I had to bend it slighly in order to get it to work when I was building it last year. If I did not do this then it would hit the back of the seat post.

The only way I can think to adjust it is to move it over a few spline notches on the pin camshaft and the clutch arm. Anyone have any ideas? I am all ears.
 

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its a crappy wallmart special. I remember I had to bend it slighly in order to get it to work when I was building it last year. If I did not do this then it would hit the back of the seat post.

The only way I can think to adjust it is to move it over a few spline notches on the pin camshaft and the clutch arm. Anyone have any ideas? I am all ears.

Okay it doesn't show the engaged (lever released) position but it looks like you have a fairly good angle of cable pull (close to 90°) so it could maybe take the adjustment you are asking about. I can think of one alternative go changing the position on the splines (as you haven't been able to remove it anyway) and I did mention it above... Stick it in a vice and bend the arm out. Straighten out the elbow that the arm has.
Oh or replace the whole sprocket cover and cam and lever unit with a new one of the type that has a straight arm. That way you get a new cam too. You could probably lose the spring off the cable though- the general consensus says that spring does nothing but make the clutch heavier to operate.
 
New clutch arm and cam shaft Ebay 9.99 free shipping from ontario ca. vendor is vmotorv. You can get it for almost half that price if you don't mind waiting for shipping from china.
 
that arm is fairly cheap, get a new one and this time grease the bucking bar heavily and also put a huge gob of grease in the hole where the arm sits every month or so

remember that clutch arm has to have some free play when properly adjusted so it doesn't touch the bucking bar when not in use

these shouldn't wear like that in less than several thousand miles
 
OK, so the problem has been fixed. I have come to find out that the clutch arm is actually longer than normal. Fortunatly, I have a spare china girl motor and that is how I found out that the clutch arm was longer than need be. So, all I did was sledge hammer on a normal hammer on the concrete and bent it at about a 75 degree angle. Its the only way it would work. That was not all though. The clutch indeed was sticking and just gave it some wacks for about a half an hour and a bunch of debree fell onto the chain gaurd. What else can I say. Crappy motor, on a crappy bike, with a crappy clutch arm. The experence is not crappy, however. It was indeed a good learning experance. Now, I know enough to get an american PK80 motor on a decent frame, like a gt2a and build it myself. I am actually in the process of doing this at the moment. Best I can say now is I hope to blow up these motors ASAP so I can get a decent motor. In the mean time I have an extra motor for spare parts. Come winter time though, I plan on breaking the motor down and fiddle with it, just cause I can.

Thanks for all the comments on this thread and I hope I was not too much of a PITA, with another clutch tread.
 
"american PK80 motor" now that you're happy learning, wait'll you learn there ain't no such thing
 
OK, so the problem has been fixed. I have come to find out that the clutch arm is actually longer than normal. Fortunatly, I have a spare china girl motor and that is how I found out that the clutch arm was longer than need be. So, all I did was sledge hammer on a normal hammer on the concrete and bent it at about a 75 degree angle. Its the only way it would work. That was not all though. The clutch indeed was sticking and just gave it some wacks for about a half an hour and a bunch of debree fell onto the chain gaurd. What else can I say. Crappy motor, on a crappy bike, with a crappy clutch arm. The experence is not crappy, however. It was indeed a good learning experance. Now, I know enough to get an american PK80 motor on a decent frame, like a gt2a and build it myself. I am actually in the process of doing this at the moment. Best I can say now is I hope to blow up these motors ASAP so I can get a decent motor. In the mean time I have an extra motor for spare parts. Come winter time though, I plan on breaking the motor down and fiddle with it, just cause I can.

Thanks for all the comments on this thread and I hope I was not too much of a PITA, with another clutch tread.
Don't think I couldn'ta said it better myself. These thing are these things.
 
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