clutch cover leaking oil !!!

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by azbill, Feb 25, 2008.

  1. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    I went for a ride today, the first after pulling my head/jug because of a suspected wrist-pin bearing failure,
    I heard some funny 'clunking' noises coming from the clutch, so when I got home, I pulled the clutch cover and it was covered in oil, enough that it was dripping all over my crank and garage floor !!!
    I do believe she's toast, but I don't know how or why (I would like to know, so I won't do it again)
    any info and/or condolences welcome

    Attached Files:

  2. Papasaun

    Papasaun Guest

    I think you are leaking at the seal behind the small gear. Also it might be an organ rejection, (That Jag might want a 4 stroke), and your bike is trying to tell you something. :p

  3. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    thanks papa...that's what I suspected,
    there used to be a little drip on the mag side, but it poured out the cover as the pics showed
    I don't think it's repairable (at least by me)
  4. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    Your jaguar team member salutes you and mourns. That stinks, Im really sorry for you.:(
  5. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    thanks scott,
    at least it got me home
    (no-one saw me pushing it while wearing my MBc shirt :lol:)
  6. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    hmmmm.....look at how the oil seems to be coming out of the center of your clutch plate. note the spatter.....?

    we need an expert!!

    hang in there K.....:cool:
  7. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    Rear main seal is shot. Could be worse as in my case....our rear main seal is leaking on my wife's 06 Jeep and it just cleared warranty 3 mos ago.

    Try running nothing but pure castor oil in your gas for lubrication. Castor is known to gunk up the works with a film and may swell the seals too!
  8. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    it is not he original leak (behind the mag, that cover shows it's normal minimal seapage)
    it is from behind clutch's wet behind drive sprocket as well
    any opinions on what would cause it?
    I am gonna try to fix my old engine (needs a bushing), and I don't want it to happen again
    otherwise, I'm off the road for a while :(
  9. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I'm afraid I can't help. But I do feel for ya. Bummer.

    RATRODER Guest

  11. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    thank you louis
    that seems to be the same prob as mine
    the seal behind rotor has been seaping from day one, so it's suspected the factory installed bad seals or the guy who assembled it was having a bad day
    engine has approx 900-1000 miles on it
    I don't know if I can fix it, but I WILL learn from it
  12. eltatertoto

    eltatertoto Guest

    hey, if ya get to the seal, me and my dad coated some of the seals with black silicone that is in like a cheese whiz can, u push the straw, and the cheese comes out. we took some of the black silicone and coated the clutch and mag seals, and he said if i blow a seal to use that, but never to use on the head. mabey that will help, if you were willing to take apart the engine i never have myself. but give it 24 hrs to dry before riding. this might be useless info, but i was just thinking of the seals we did.
  13. thatsdax

    thatsdax Guest

    How many..

    How many miles do you have on this motor? Let me know. thanks..
  14. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    approx 900-1000 (just got a speedo) might be less, but not more
    I pulled the clutch plate and a bunch of little rubber(?) bits where in the oil accumulated there (I guess that was the seal)
    I have always used 5oz/gal (25:1), and never ran really hard
    the good news is, even with the lubrication going to wrong place, my wrist-pin bearing and pin show no noticable wear ( I am going to make a post in the roller70 review with pics)
    I would like to know if this is something I caused (so I won't do it again)
  15. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    looks like the 2 seals are cheap ($1.09 each)
    (thanks for the link Louis :))
    so for 2$ plus shipping, I could fix this thing
    if I could just figure out how to do it :(
    I spent more time towing cars than I ever spent fixing them :)
    any pointers or advice greatly appreciated
    thank you for letting me vent :lol:
  16. It shouldn't be too hard. Remember to never force anything and have that digital camera by you to take as many pictures as you can during disassembly so when you assemble it back up you got them pics to show how it all goes back together.
    I would worry about the torque on the bolts. Are there any specs to that? Nevertheless,remember snug but not overly snug.
    If you come by any bolts that may pose a problem with how snug it needs to be when you install it,take a thin permanent marker and run it across the bolt before you take it out so when you install it back the line lines up. This also ensures the same bolt is going in the same hole if you use different colored markers for each identical bolt.
    And clear your work table,clean it real good,and grab a chair.
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 27, 2008
  17. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    thanks for the good thoughts, large :D(should I say LFL ?:lol:)
    it's been a very frustrating day dealing with this
    I have been trying to keep myself busy on the forum, so I don't go 'postal' and beat it with a sledge
    (no offence to any (sane)postal works that might be members :))
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2008
  18. Egor

    Egor Guest

    For the seal behind the crank, check this out. I am not using the seals that came with the engine, I suspect you can go to a bearing shop and give them the dimensions and get a new high quality one. If yours is not mangled I think the size is on the seal. Have fun Dave