Clutch clutch disengaged-engine dies.

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by daninthesand, Aug 25, 2008.

  1. daninthesand

    daninthesand New Member

    I have a powerking so called 80 cc 2 stroke. I have issues which I am trying to resolve while pouring over this forum for already answered questions I have. I am slowly getting this thing running. Thanks for all the help!

    Question: Is it normal for the motor to die with the clutch disengaged? Its like the spark dies if I don't have the clutch engaged. In other words if I come to a stop, with the clutch engaged/or disengaged the engine dies. Seems to me that if the clutch is disengaged then the rotor that turns inside the magneto stops turning....so no spark right?

    Am I clueless? sorry for the noob question.

    Daniel
     

  2. hill climber

    hill climber Member

    no your bike should run while stopped with the clutch disengaged. is the clutch disengaging? is the idle set to low? is the fuel mixture( carb setting) to rich? have you swaped out the spark plug and wire? all can afect idle. while riding will the clutch disengage, are you able to pull the clutch lever and rev the motor? if so the clutch is disenaging, other probs.
     
  3. daninthesand

    daninthesand New Member

    Hi climber.

    Thanks for the reply. I purchased a new spark plug champion equivalent to the ngk-b6hs and wire and will install it tomorrow. I have never been able to view the magnetic part rotate (cover off) inside the magneto, unless the clutch was engaged. Of course this was done with me simply pushing the bike and the motor not running. It is for this reason I feel how can their be a spark to run the engine unless the clutch is engaged:shock:

    So, No i cannot rev the engine with the clutch disengaged because the engine dies every time I disengage. Even if I'm coasting (i mean not pedaling and the engine is running) and running at half throttle As far as I know the clutch is disengaging because if the engine is off, I can barley pedal the bike due to the friction on the motor. If I squeeze the clutch lever, the bike becomes much easier to pedal, so I assume it is disengaging. I'm not sure how to adjust the clutch itself. (I have learned from this forum how to adjust the clutch cable however)

    anyway, I'll keep searching the forum. Maybe my clutch is only partially disengaging and it is this that kills the engine when I stop....or any other time I pres the clutch lever.

    btw, I only have about 10 miles on this new engine, so hopefully things will improve, but it will take me months to run a tank-full at this rate!:rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2008
  4. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    Remove the Large Cover from the side of the engine.
    Look for scratches from the clutch hitting the inside of the cover.
    Mine hit when I first assembled my kit and scarred the inside pretty good.

    Grind the inside of the cover and trial fit it.
    The clutch cable end (the side with the brass cable end should have a tiny bit of slack in it when the clutch lever is in the engaged position all the way out not pulled in.

    Is your throttle slide closed when you are at idle.
    Remove the air filter and look inside the hole while moving the throttle open and closed.
    Is your idle high enough?


    The engine is directly connected to the magneto and does not require the clutch to be engaged or disengaged.

    The clutch couples the engine to the rear wheel.
     
  5. daninthesand

    daninthesand New Member

    That explains the lack of spinning of the magnet with the clutch disengaged, the motor off, and pushing the bike forward. Man...thats too dumb of me not to realize that.:oops: :grin:

    I'll check the things you mentioned. I am leaving for a few days of camping and bringing the bike with me. I'll have a lot of time to tinker with it.

    Thanks for the help.
    Daniel
     
  6. jmccrury

    jmccrury Member

    Have you adjusted the idle screw on the carb? I had the same problem with mine. As soon as I pulled the clutch in the motor would quit. From reading here on MBc for a few weeks before the build I knew what the problem was immediately though. Turn the screw in a few turns and see if it makes a difference.
     
  7. daninthesand

    daninthesand New Member


    yeah that was one of the first things I played around with. I must have adjusted it in 1/8 turn increments at least 500 times. Problem is i can't get it to idle so i can't adjust it while standing till.

    Daniel
     
  8. jmccrury

    jmccrury Member

    If you've already adjusted it, then I guess that's probably not the problem. But for future reference, the best way I've found to adjust the idle is to just screw it all the way in and then start the motor. Once you disengage the clutch it will idle really high and you can back it out until it idles they way you want it to.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2008
  9. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    Start bike engine. Keep engine at 1/2 throttle and pull clutch lever in. If engine still runs, then you need to adjust your idle. If it dies, you need to adjust your clutch.

    its that simple.
     
  10. Bronzebird

    Bronzebird Member

    X 2

    That is what I had to do is twist the throttle whilst setting the idle. Let us know if anything changes.
     
  11. daninthesand

    daninthesand New Member

    It appears the carb does not like bits of sand and grit in it. :-x I took it apart and found some crud in there. I guess it somehow got in through the coarse air filter element and affected the operation. A quick blow with canned air (i was camping at the time) and voila! Runs like a charm now. I put close to 4 tanks of gas on it these past 4 days while camping. Nowhere near 150 mpg, but i guess thats the thing with new engines....a lot of power lost past the rings till they get settled.

    I never had so many stares before. And the dear ran away real fast while I crusied through the forest. Seems they are not used to the sound of 2 stroke yet.:p

    I also moved the throttle pin in the carb so that the clip is on the bottom slot. And prior to discovering the issue with the grit in the carb, the spark plug was wet and black which from what I learned on this great forum means too rich a mixture. I'll have a look at it again ( an new plug) in the next tankful or so and see what it looks like then.

    Thanks everyone for all your suggestions and help!:grin:

    Daniel
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2008
  12. QuadManiac

    QuadManiac Member

    FYI, if you found the grit in the float bowl or jet area then it likely came in through the fuel via the tank, not thru the air filter. An inline gas filter is recommended all over this forum for exactly that reason. There's no guarantee that the Chinese manufacturer cleaned the tank well (or at all for that matter) after fab.
     
  13. daninthesand

    daninthesand New Member

    Good point. I never did clean the gas tank, having not found this forum until after I assembled the kit. I did have the good sense to have an inline filter and I do see grit from time to time in the line above the filter.Good ol' Chinese quality control! The grit was found in the the area where the throttle barrel goes and I presume it prevented the barrel from sliding properly.

    Daniel
     
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