clutch issue? back wheel won't spin more than a few feet

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by jns120, Apr 22, 2011.

  1. jns120

    jns120 New Member

    engine seized up when try to stop and now the back wheel will only go forward or backwards a few feet. Checked the clutch and it seems to be working. Investigating the chain i don't see anything that could jamming it. Any ideas?
     

  2. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    Do you have a coaster brake?
     
  3. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    Sounds to me like your driven sprocket isn't centered.
     
  4. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    Good one. I did not even think of that. I got money on your idea.
     
  5. jns120

    jns120 New Member

    Thanks. Yes, I have a coaster brake. Planning on taking off the clutch arm cover today to get a better look. Appreciate the help!
     
  6. jns120

    jns120 New Member

    no luck. Took the cover off and drive sprocket and chain look fine. Here's another thing I noticed. When you roll the back tire forwards and back just a few inches it sounds like the engine is trying to start. Almost like if I was trying to kick start it. Any other ideas? thanks
     
  7. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    recheck your clutch.
     
  8. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    How hard are you rolling it, you'd have to put some elbow grease behind that to make it try and start just by pushing.

    Can you make a video so we can diagnose it? Going on a new tidbit every couple days will take weeks to diagnose.
     
  9. jns120

    jns120 New Member

  10. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    It still sounds like a clutch problem. Have you taken the drive chain off and tried it to eliminate the possibility of a coaster brake problem?

    When you check your clutch use this as a reference: http://www.motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=808. Clutch dissassembly begins on page 2
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2011
  11. jns120

    jns120 New Member

    Thanks. How would I eliminate it being a coaster brake issue? I haven't completely taken off the drive chain but not sure what good that would do. I just took off the clutch cover and can see it turning when I push the bike forward or back and it goes through 2 or 3 full rotations before the wheel won't go any farther.
     
  12. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    You can convert your coaster brakes to not be brakes if it does prove to be the problem. Coaster brakes are terrible on motorized bikes, they burn out quick. That's one way, but Stan just told you how to eliminate it - remove the motor's drive chain and see how your wheel moves.

    I know with my WCC bicycle, it's got dead coaster brakes, and it was basically squeaking until it froze, and now it won't move an inch.

    Long shot, but maybe your master link is catching? If the c-clip is on the outside, try putting it on the inside. Also, how much chain tension is there? Check for slack, roll it forward until it stops, and check for slack again while you keep it slightly pushing forward. If the tension is different between those two points, then it's driven sprocket alignment.

    For adjusting the clutch, don't rely on the bar - you want to remove your crank case cover and adjust the clutch plate.
     
  13. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    If it feels the same with the cover off as it does with it on.....then you should follow goats advice on the clutch. Sounds like it is not releasing. With the cover off it is not released.
     
  14. jns120

    jns120 New Member

    Thanks guys. I need to pick up a link removing tool in order to take the drive chain off and I haven't had time to get to the store. I did take the clutch cover off again, it's definitely different with the cover off vs on so I'm leaning towards it being a problem with the coaster brake. Hopefully get to the store soon and then find out. thanks again
     
  15. jns120

    jns120 New Member

    unless of course there is a simpler way to remove the drive chain that I'm just not aware of?
     
  16. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    It should have a master link that you can seperate with needle nose pliers and a small screw driver.
     
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