Clutch Not Engaging

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Luna, Sep 30, 2016.

  1. Luna

    Luna New Member

    So I'm trying to install my chain after I went and got the screw I posted about in my other thread. After removing the clutch case cover and the flower nut and plate under it like in the bikeberry videos, the drive sprocket doesn't move. Doesn't even move when I reinstall all this and just hold the clutch down. Has anyone encountered this problem or know a possible solution?
     

  2. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    Remove the sparkplug. Does the clutch hub (with the three prongs) rotate independently inside the ring gear (with the pads)?
     
  3. Luna

    Luna New Member

    Don't have the spark plug in yet, but yeah I'm not tryna get shocked.

    Also, no. It doesn't move independently.
     
  4. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Active Member

    The plug in means that you have compression to resist the rotation of the gears, plug out to see things turning.

    Okay so rotating the clutch plate or hub causes the ring gear to rotate along with it. The clutch isn't disengaging. These parts are separated by the ring gear bearing. The grease inside this bearing is commonly found to be dried up, possibly cooked during the painting process (is it a black engine?) and this makes the bearing "stuck".

    You can wind the chain onto the sprocket by turning the clutch plate/clutch hub with 3 prongs/ring gear while the plug is out. After that you can finish assembly, fit the plug, and roll the bike to "break out" the stuck bearing against the resistance of the compression.
    BUT you will need to get back in there to regrease the ring gear bearing. It will sound and feel dry and scratchy.

    So alternatively you can get it done early.
    Grab a cloth or put gloves on and twist the ring gear against the clutch hub (or perhaps the clutch plate if you can put it on upside down). I did mine with clutch plate removed, by placing a flat wrench between two of the three prongs on the clutch hub, gripping the ring gear and twisting. I wore gloves so as not to skin my knuckles when the "varnish" cracked and bearing became free.

    The ring gear bearing can be greased through a tiny gap around the circumference of the front, if you have spray can grease and sharpen/flatten the straw; or you can use the grease port hole(s) in the back of the bearing and push some grease in or use a syringe. I would suggest you use no more than a small pea-sized amount of ordinary grease pushed inside while turning so it spreads evenly. You don't want excess grease spreading out to the clutch pads.
    To access the grease port(s) in the back of the bearing you will need to use your puller tool that came with the kit and pull the whole thing off the engine.

    This ring gear bearing is important. If it wears, so does the ring gear and the smaller gear. If it seizes during a ride it may cause injury. I'm sure a lot of people must use the first method of breaking it out and then never even think about greasing it because it doesn't get a lot of mentions on the forum. I have read that every 300 miles could be an ideal maintenance period for regreasing this bearing
     
    Frankenstein and Luna like this.
  5. Luna

    Luna New Member

    I just took a flat wrench and torqued it over like you said. This is what I was thinking of doing, I just wanted a second opinion on what was wrong before I did it. Worked just fine. Thanks for the help, man.

    On an unrelated note, no, it's not a black engine. Totally unpainted.
     
    FurryOnTheInside likes this.
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