Clutch clutch problems please help

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by thine82, Dec 1, 2010.

  1. thine82

    thine82 Member

    when i pull in and lock my clutch the bike still moves while running.. yes i have adjusted the cable tons of times and a day later it always does this problem again.. what could it be? worn out clutch pads? or the rod and bearing need to be greased?? not sure why it does it but when i peddle i always have to hold the clutch lever all the way in so it rolls kinda easy but still has drag on it.. hard to peddle that way.. some one please help.. or how can i install a centrifical clutch. i have a silverhorse 80cc well it is actually 66cc i know.. got it from bikeberry.com.. the only problem i have besides that i broke the muffler bolts right on the jug.. can you reuse the head bolts and gasket if i want to change the jug??:confused:
     

  2. thine82

    thine82 Member

    so one day has passed and no one can help me figure out why my clutch is messing up??? thanks guys.. great site...
     
  3. Norm in Laguna

    Norm in Laguna New Member

    clutch problems

    I had the same problem on both my bike and the trike I built. I still have to mess with my cruzer, but on the trike I put a cable that goes on a Honda 70 scooter. The trike hasn't had much of an issue since I put the "real" cable on there. I think it's just cheap cables. Also, the clutch lever itself wont last long either. My cruzer is an every day driver, so it's a pain. But the trike is doing great. Since the clutch arm end is just cable, find a good cable that will fit in the clutch lever good. I hope this helps you bro. Good luck. Norm
     
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    it sounds like you just need to adjust the clutch arm or adjust the flower nut on the clutch itself.
    it sounds like you don't have enough pull to fully disengauge the clutch.
    there are 2 adjustments on the cable, one adjustment on the clutch arm and one adjustment on the clutch itself. it is also possible that your clutch pads are too warn to warrant anymore adjustments.


    I disagree about the clutch lever and cables being cheap and not lasting long.
     
  5. handyandy91

    handyandy91 New Member

    I agree with motorpsycho. I got my first motor from bikeberry and had the same prob. I adjusted the clutch arm on the motor to have 1/32" play and all was good. Then I made my own wheel bracket for the clutch cable to motor. Works awsome and no broken cables.
     
  6. Bobbyoutback

    Bobbyoutback Member

    This is what you should do ( takes me 5 minutes ) remove the clutch cover , now you can see the flower shaped screw in the middle with a little silver screw fitting between one of the lugs .

    Now take that little screw out & then turn the flower anti clockwise one lug .
    Pull your clutch in and push the bike , if its till locking up turn that flower another notch & try again until the clutch plate disengages then replace back the little holding screw , cover back on & your done :grin5:

    Bobby.
     
  7. handyandy91

    handyandy91 New Member

    Don't forget some lock-tite on the little screw.
     
  8. thine82

    thine82 Member

    thanks guys

    i did manage to figure it out by reading some other posts and deciding to try stuff.. well come to find out it was the little bar and that ball whatever it is called.. it needed alot of grease in it. so i lubed it and pulled it twice and whamo back to new... going to build a super quiet exhaust and intake box.. i need help on the intake box but the exhaust is already in effect.. i know it works and have tons of research to show you all once i build mine first. i want to tell, show, and prove.. thats how i am.. anyone who is really smart in that kind of field then contact me so i can get some mathimatical help please. i am in the quest of helping us all but dont want someone to ruin their bike trying because it could do that.. that is why i can not let the secret out already.. look at my pics in my albums and you will see that i have already had one exhaust extra that did help make it quiet until about 15 to 20 feet away.. used to sneak up on people...lmao... no room on my new bike for that application so i am redesigning it to fit my bike and all of yours hopefully...:D
     
  9. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    i prefer my super loud popper...while i must be annoying... at least ppl know im coming...except the stupid ignorant joggers at 630 am with their ipods blazing that are out "connecting with the world" while not being aware of it at all.

    on clutch cables. best to get a "kit" from a motorbike shop, silver solder on the fittings at the ends, and get rid of that stupid little brass clamp joke thing... or use the clamp part from a v_brake arm etc welded on...
     
  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Another chef in the kitchen here to stir the pot:
    The biggest issue I have seen with proper clutch adjustment is that the cable is adjusted to loose. When you try to pedal the bicycle with the engine turned off, you should have to squeeze the clutch lever in all the way.
    Judging by your previous statement you are under the impression that this is not normal??

    The inner wire that attaches to the release arm should have just a slight wiggle to it, 1/16" or so when the clutch hand lever is all the way out, clutch engaged.
    You should barely be able to wiggle the release lever on the engine as well.
    If the inner wire has alot of slack in it and you can move the release arm back and forth 1/4" or more then the cable is definitely too loose.
     
  11. thine82

    thine82 Member

    clutchs

    Well i know what the proper adjustment is on a clutch cable. i wanted to know why it iwas not rolling easy while locked in place.. yes while the clutch is disengaged.. i would adjust the cable and it would work perfect when for a day or so then go back to having to hold it all the way in just to be able to peddle easy. i was not able to peddle with it locked in place without having to fight with it to much.. GEARNUT are you saying it should always have to be held in without being able to lock it in place to peddle easy?
     
  12. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Well, no not really.
    I was just trying to cover the basics. At the time I did not know that you are familiar with proper cable tension. Now that I do, I can only surmise that you are experiencing cable stretch, or the cable end at the release arm is slipping?
    There really is not much going on inside the release mechanism that could cause what you are experiencing. Now having said that, if for some reason the bucking bar was not tempered correctly at the factory I could see it getting all chewed up and gradually getting shorter. Do you have any odd metal shavings underneath the engine sprocket cover or does the end of the bucking bar look like it has been getting chewed up?
    The only other thing I can think of is that somehow the flower nut is not getting locked in place by the lock screw and it is rotating out.
     
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