Clutch slow to engage on HS with 4G

Discussion in '4-Stroke Engines' started by lemont1, Dec 7, 2010.

  1. lemont1

    lemont1 Member

    I am just breaking in my second build. It seams to rev a little high before the clutch engages. I dont have a tach and this is my first HS engine so I am just goin by feel. Can I just streach the springs to make it engage at lower rpm's or do I need to get a different set? Is this something that will self adjust as it breaks in? I want to break it in slowly to get the most out it. Am I just worried about nothing (as I said I'm a rookie). Any advice would sure help.

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  2. MotoMagz

    MotoMagz Member

    Check out this thread by Ocscully:Changing the Stall Speed on Grubee Clutch. Oc. did a ton of work to get find and purchase the correct springs for the 4G.I have the new springs thanx to Oc. and they work great.
  3. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    lemont1's 4G is the one for the HS142CC motor that comes with the clutch mounted on a tapered shaft. These clutches are different from the one that I changed the springs in. These clutches use extension springs rather than the compression springs. You probably can get softer springs but you might find that it would be easier to add small weights to the shoes to adjust the stall speed/engagement rpm. MaxTorque offers weight kits for their Draggin-Skin Clutch in either 7gram (200-300 rpm reduction) or 10gram (300-500 rpm reduction) You might want to contact Jim Donavan at MaxTorque via e-mail or phone and discuss with him what you want to accomplish. Here is a link to the MaxTorque Racing Clutch web page. 3/4 of the way down is a paragraph about the clutch weights.

    Last edited: Dec 8, 2010
  4. MotoMagz

    MotoMagz Member

    Ocscully,I saw that it was the wider 4g and forgot about the clutch pack.Oh well maybe next time...thanx
  5. sdp

    sdp New Member

    I've purchased some of the 4g kits with the tapered shaft engine and the clutch engagement rpm worked out just fine. The last 4g I purchased from is the 5/8 shaft engine. The clutch that came with this kit wants to engage at idle. I wasn't worried because I've changed the springs before with good results. However, the clutch on this particular engine still wanted to engage at idle. I put shims in with the heavier springs and now the engine will idle without the clutch engaging if I have the idle set very low. The engine will sometimes die because the idle is set too low, but that's the only way I can ride this bike. I have one more 4g with the tapered shaft and I'm thinking about switching the motors in this bike just so can have a clutch with a workable stall speed.
  6. lemont1

    lemont1 Member

    Thanks to all for the help. I got the softer springs and worked just right! Allthough all I got was 50 miles and the one way bearing fell apart in the drive, trying to find a replacment now and not having much luck.
  7. locutus_1

    locutus_1 New Member

    i got the opposite problem i got a new motor and chain drive hoot.. it wont fully engage the bell when i sit on it it goes no where..

    someone suggested i have a larger bell and its not engageing fully.. ive swaped springs to smaller ones that engage just over idle and still they just rub... its all lubed up the pins that hold the pads just a tad so not to contaminate..

    i saw that weights might help but id have to drill into the shoes metal frame... so im so freaking lost any ideas?????

    i just need it to grab more harder imean much harder
  8. locutus_1

    locutus_1 New Member

    ive solved the clutch rev issue where oy have to rev almost full throttle..

    go to your local hardware store.. but some 1/4 #35 springs 3 bucks tops... cut them to fit make the bends etc.. take out your shoes and lube the pins put lock tight on them put them back in tighten till they are tight but you can still move the shoes with your hands.. oh and sand the pins seems they are rusted and have paint on them from the factory.. then what you do is put your springs on this takes a while since yo uhave to cut them down to lenth..

    20 miles on mine and mine engaves just after throttle and it has 2000 rpm idle works great.. trust me i spent a week and 10 diffrent springs 15 diffrent people and countless hours on the phone no one knew a thing so do it and youll be happy
  9. lemont1

    lemont1 Member

    I just tweaked the origanal springs with a screw driver and needle nose plyiers and got the results I wanted. Two bikes with about 500 miles each so far.
  10. locutus_1

    locutus_1 New Member

    those stock springs are very hard to tweek i mean you have to be super man .. to get those to loosen up... your still slipping though..

    the stock springs on these things isnt made for bikes they are made for lighter loads like generators.. so just a word of advice id swap them out for much smaller ones.. so you dont burn up your clutch bell and shoes