Clutch Clutch troubles...No start condition

[BoltsMissing]

I would add though, Clutch cable stretches, might be an idea to get a HD stainless steel brake cable if the kits cable keeps stretching.
Also, remember to add lots of grease where the clutch mechanisms are on the lever side ( 3 screws ) by removing the cover, look for the bar and ball bearing. Make sure it's (ball bearing) there, add lots of grease, preferably molly grease. Check the ball bearing against a file, if the bearing gets scratched, replace it cos some are not hardened.

 

[Patdon10]

Thanks guys, also thanks for the pictures. With the clutch not engaged, the bicycle wheel should move freely? Whats it mean if it does not?

 

[Ghost0]

You may have lost the little ball that goes between the engager pin and the internal clutch pin.

 

[Patdon10]

How would I of lost that if I've never taken apart the engine? Where exactly does it go.

 

[Ghost0]

Well I assume that you removed the sprocket cover to install the chain, that is where the ball can come out. If you remove that sprocket cover there should be an approximately 1/4" diameter pin that fits inside the sprocket. Behind that pin, is a ball. Some people lose them when they are attaching the chain. They always find the pin but the ball can sometimes disappear.

 

[Patdon10]

ok. I'll take a look. If the ball disappears, will the engine not fire?

 

[BoltsMissing]

With the clutch not engaged, the bicycle wheel should move freely?

If you mean the hand clutch lever is depressed with the pin down, "nutruel", yeah the wheel ought to spin.

Whats it mean if it does not?

If it seems like grabbing it's one or two minor adjustments,
1 being the cable needs tightening at the brass bit, or
2 the clutch plate needs adjusting.

Try this similar method,

1. Adjust the cable so there is 0 slack.
2. Revove the 5 plate screws and adjust the star-nut as per instructions, that being adjusting it while the clutch lever is depressed and the pin down.

3.let go of the lever so it engages the clutch and see if the engine turns on compression, then dis-engage the clutch again. That way you know immediately the clutch plate is adjusted correctly before a new cable has a chance to stretch.
Once that is adjusted correctly, it hardly goes out for a while.

4. The important thing to keep an eye on next is that 0 slack on the cable.
So if the clutch keeps playing up when the lever is depressed, from then on always go to the cable first and check if it has stretched. If it has, re-adjust the cable, and keep re-adjusting when new.
If it keeps stretching and starts to get annoying, replace it as mentioned earlier.

If the cable has not lost it's 0 adjust, then go back the star-nut at the clutch plate and do that process again. after a few intitial runs it stabalizes.

Tip
0 slack on cable first, star-nut 2nd

 

[Ghost0]

If you lost the ball it will still start but I don't advise it. You will have no way to disengage the drive. Runaway bike.

 

[Patdon10]

alright guys, I'm at home with the bike. I flushed it out and I felt it fire once, but since I don't have a kill switch wired out the "little ball", its a bad idea to let it run. Can someone take a picture of the "little ball" and where it goes? Where can I get a replacement?

 

[Patdon10]

I got the bike to fire for the first time tonight. As I said...I must have lost the ball, because I can engage or disengage the clutch, but nothing happens. Its always hard to ride. I pushed it as hard as I can down my driveway which is a hill. I opened up the throttle to get as much air in as possible. POP.....POP.....POP...POP..POP..POP it ran for maybe 3 seconds then stopped.

Now heres my question... Whenever I get the chain moving, I can peddle the bike with no issues. Its not much more than peddaling normally. Why is it easy to peddle when its moving? Why wouldn't the engine stay alive?