Clutch Clutch went out?

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by Jdavis_0203, Oct 6, 2009.

  1. Jdavis_0203

    Jdavis_0203 New Member

    I have the 80cc Sky Hawk engine kit. Running everything stock. But ive had to tightened the clutch cable and pull the screw on the cable farther and farther back like every few rides and today finally i think either my clutch went out cause the clutch are is all the way pulled under neath my carb for it to have free wheel or sometimes that normal? my bike runs great if i force the pedaling around for the bike to start it feels awesome still its been running great just a few little things here and there but im just not sure if this is right or not
     

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Am I missing something???? Your clutch went out but you say you can peddle start it and ride....That is not a clutch going out (a clutch gone out won't pull and will slip). The problem as I see it is that the clutch arm throw isn't long enough or has too much travel until it disengages the clutch. One thing you might want to do is make sure that the shaft that the clutch arm moves in toward the clutch is ok and not worn (there is a ball as in ball bearing between the pin and clutch)...You could make one longer if need be, out of a drill bit the same size as the pin. You could remove the clutch arm (the arm that the clutch cable moves) and rotate it. The arm is on a spline and secured with a 6mm acorn nut.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2009
  3. Monkeyboy13

    Monkeyboy13 New Member

    it sounds like your saying that the clutch is stuck on, what exactly are you trying to say is wrong?
     
  4. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    There is NO on or off when dealing with a clutch. The terms are disengaged (as pulling on the clutch lever and coasting without the engine spinning, as you go down the street). And engaged (as your hand not touching the clutch handle and the engine rotating rolling down the street). The method to start the BASIC HT engine is to peddle down the street with the clutch disengaged and after attaining enough speed to start the engine ...engage the clutch. When the clutch handle is pulled enough that you can push down the spring loaded pin on the clutch handle, the clutch should be and the term is disengaged.

    By the way we have a section dedicated to clutch problems.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2009
  5. Shadeslay

    Shadeslay Member

    I had the same thing happen with mine. I would re-place your clutch pads, mine didn't even last 2 months. When I did take the pads off they where silky smooth. I think the material was too soft, it could have just been a bad batch of pads. You might also want to look into getting another clutch arm/post. I know the one on mine you couldn't pop the arm off the post to re-adjust it, as it had a flat spot.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2009
  6. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    It went on it will come off. Had one that was not a problem, second one was stuck real good. Used a vise, opened the jaws so the shaft could move freely but the arm couldn't pass through. Either clamp shaft (tried this way first) remove acorn nut and pry the arm off with some sort of a tool as a large (or two) screwdriver, or as I had to do was to take the acorn nut off and replace with a regular nut. Then I took a center punch and was very careful that the tip was as close to center that I could and struck a blow with a hammer. Reset the punch and strike another...the shaft came loose and I backed the nut off.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2009
  7. Shadeslay

    Shadeslay Member

    Ya taking it off wasn't my problem, it was that it only goes on one because it has a flat spot, instead of the older ones, that you could adjust. I'm not sure why it was changed, I really can't see the cable having enough pull to strip the old star pattern.
     
  8. Victor Vance

    Victor Vance Member

    i have a similar problem, my clutch slips after 2 days of installing the engine to the bike. I think its either a case of a bad batch of pads or the arm that goes through the engine that pushes the preasure plate isnt functioning properly, hopefully its just the pads as its much easier to fix. get a set of new pads, i can get a whole clutch rebuild kit for AUD$8, thats about US$5
     
  9. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Actually, how can it be the ball/shaft that goes from the clutch arm (located behind the gear cover left side). Maybe something is missing like the ball. If the shaft between the clutch arm and the ...for lack of a better term, the throw out plate/flywheel needs replacing, go buy a good grade drill bit the same diameter as the shaft...cut the bit to size. You can make it longer if needed, that way the arm that the cable attach├ęs to won't be that close to the right side. Being that it's new, wear is not a issue. Ummmm maybe the clutch needs adjusting by the star nut on the clutch. Access to this is open after the 5 clutch cover screws are removed and the small lock screw is also removed so as to be able to tighten/loosen the star nut.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 16, 2015
  10. Victor Vance

    Victor Vance Member

    i went to the guy who i bought my kit of and he told me how to fix it. Its works great now. Basicly, you need to remove the flywheel with the sprocket tool the these kits come with. And on the shaft it sits on, their is a keyway, behind that key way you simply put a washer there. This puts the pads closer to the preasure plate(the plate that has the star not hlding it). i threw in some new pdas while i was at it and my clutch has no slip what so ever now :clap:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 16, 2015
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