Clutch will not disengage - center clutch wheel stuck to outer gear

[ChillswitchEngage]

Hey guys, a friend passed onto me a bike with a generic 50cc chinese kit that had been sitting for a bit, over half a year. Off the bat I needed to replace the clutch and throttle cables since they were frayed and rusted and have done so but for the life of me I cannot seem to get the clutch to disengage and freely roll the bike. I took off the right side cover and outer pad to expose the two gears underneath with the inner wheel with three prongs and the screw for the clutch. I can see it move when I pull the lever.

I've tried following this video to un-stick and no amount of rolling it or trying to hit the pegs with a hammer will get the center to spin freely. Have tried letting it soak in PBlaster to no avail. Also I had previously took out the bucking bar and bearing on the other side and re-greased them before doing this if its any help.

I followed this guide for the clutch and cable

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22729

 

[ChillswitchEngage]

Bump

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I found the clutch hub (as I'm calling it) - ring gear bearing stuck on my new engine when I received it. I have heard that this is fairly common.
Since I have not yet got the parts to mount my engine on the bike, I used a method similar to the video to free up the clutch hub - ring gear bearing.
If the engine was mounted on the bike, with chain on too, I would have been able to push the bike backwards (so it doesn't skid) to free up the bearing against the compression resistance.

The second part of the fix is the lubrication of the bearing.
When the bearing is freed up it is audibly dry and scratchy. To ignore this is just plain.. well let's stay positive..
There is a hole or three in the back of the bearing, these are the grease ports. (I have read that you can use a syringe with a flattened tip to squeeze the grease in from the front of the bearing if you lost/ don't want to use your puller tool to remove the clutch hub and ring gear from the engine to access the grease ports at the back.)

If you don't lubricate the bearing it will wear excessively, and presumably heat up too. I think this may be what happened to your engine. The bearing got damaged by lack of preventative maintenance, and now it's actually seized.

See if you can find a new ring gear with the bearing as a complete set on the internet, eBay or whatevz. Free it up and grease it. Not excessively or grease will be flung out on to the clutch pads. Check the sound after a few hundred miles to keep the bearing properly greased.

 

[sp1ke]

id look at the clutch lever on the engine how far in does it go under that caseing housing the front cog the lever pushes on a bar then a bearing then the clutch is the bearing missing ? if so it wont push far enough to activate the clutch


it could also be that the tensioner bit on the clutch its self u knock hammer n chizel is to tight to disengage

its one of those two ill bet

 

[crassius]

look at your pads to see if they have thin, steel wires sticking out - these pieces of wire can get stuck in clutch hub bearings and lock them up - sometimes you can find them & pull them out, but often you need a new hub

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

look at your pads to see if they have thin, steel wires sticking out - these pieces of wire can get stuck in clutch hub bearings and lock them up - sometimes you can find them & pull them out, but often you need a new hub

That's one I've never heard of. *likes*
Do you know of a source for the clutch hub?

 

[crassius]

hub should be about $14, sometimes comes with new pads at $21 - check on ebay as I'm not at shop puter now